Hiking Peru’s Inca Trail: A 4-Day Trek to Machu Picchu

My daughter Morgan and I had been talking about planning a trip to Peru for quite some time, specifically with the plan to hike the Inca Trail.

While traveling in Croatia, I happened to cross paths with a couple who had just finished hiking the Inca Trail (4 days of hiking leading to Machu Picchu). I, of course, asked them all about their experience. They were so enthusiastic about their journey and couldn’t stop praising the company they had chosen — Alpaca Expeditions. Naturally, their excitement piqued my interest.

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Machu Picchu

Booking my trip

When I returned from Croatia, I researched Alpaca Expeditions and their “Classic Inca Trail Hike,” a 4-day/3-night journey ending at Machu Picchu. They offered both group and private guided hikes. While I usually enjoy traveling with small groups, the thought of tackling high altitudes made me hesitant. I knew we could handle the challenge, but I wanted to avoid feeling rushed or holding anyone back.

After some thought, I chose the private Classic Inca Trail hike. I contacted Alpaca Expeditions, set the dates, and paid the deposit. They took care of everything else, from securing passes to assembling the team.

I picked late March for our trek because the rainy season is ending, the dry season is starting, and the weather is warm. While there might be occasional rain, the overall weather should be pleasant. This timing also means fewer tourists, offering a better chance to enjoy Machu Picchu without big crowds. I don’t mind a little rain—it keeps the landscape lush and green.

Late March is also a good time to see flowers, and the rain clouds often add drama to photographs. March was the perfect time for our trip.

I received the itinerary along with a packing list. In addition to the essentials like clothing and toiletries, we would need to pack a sleeping bag. Alpaca Expeditions suggested a foam mat or air mattress for added comfort. We decided to rent what we could from them —for convenience and to lighten our load. However, we invested in compact travel pillows and sleeping bag liners. They strongly recommended hiking poles, so Morgan and I each purchased a set. And, of course, we packed a good rain poncho since the likelihood of getting some rain would still be high.

A couple of days before our adventure, Morgan flew to Lima to meet me. I was already in Peru, just finishing up a week-long yoga retreat. After a brief overnight stay in Lima, we hopped on a flight to Cusco. We had intentionally planned a few days there to adjust and casually explore.

Orientation Meeting

The evening prior to our hike, we went to the Alpaca Expeditions office for check-in and the mandatory orientation meeting. Fletcher, our guide for the next four days, briefed us on what to expect during the upcoming trek. Before our departure, he provided each of us with a duffle bag to pack our essentials. As a parting note, Fletcher encouraged us to stay hydrated and aim for a good night’s sleep.

After the briefing, Morgan and I headed to Morena Peruvian Kitchen, a little restaurant we passed while searching for Alpaca Expeditions’ offices. We wanted to grab a bite to eat and enjoy a pisco sour to celebrate the journey that awaited us.

Day One on the Inca Trail

The following morning, we were picked up at our Cusco hotel and driven to The Porter House in Ollantaytambo, where we once again met Fletcher. As it turned out, we enjoyed a breakfast cooked by a chef and some porters, the very ones who would be accompanying us on our hike. After breakfast, we were formally introduced to our team—the chef and five porters (yes, including Fletcher, our guide —seven people for Morgan and me).

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Some of our crew

We handed our duffle bags to a porter and, following Fletcher, proceeded to KM82—the Starting Point of the Inca Trail.

Upon reaching KM82, a short drive from The Porter House, Morgan and I snapped a quick photo in front of the iconic Inca Trail sign (because, why not?). Then, we set off (after having our passports checked and our duffle bag weighed, of course), following Fletcher as he led the way out of town and along the path—which ran parallel to the Urubamba River.

The scenery along the route was incredible. Rows of cacti lined the path in some areas, and the Andes were a constant, towering presence. I had hoped to spot flowers along the way and was excited to find a few, including some unique orchids.

We reached the first of several Inca ruins early in our hike. Patallacta — was only about a mile from the start of our hike. After we explored the ruins, we hiked for a few more hours before taking a break for lunch.

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Patallacta—the first Inca site we came to along our hike

Our porters reached the Hatunchaca campsite well before we did. By the time we arrived, the dining tent was set up, and the smell of lunch was in the air. After 4.5 hours of hiking, Morgan and I were more than ready to eat.

They brought out bins of warm water with face cloths and soap so we could wash up before lunch.

While we cleaned up, the crew prepared a fantastic meal—it felt like a feast. This first meal gave us a glimpse of the chef’s skills, and it set the tone for the hearty and delicious meals we’d enjoy throughout the trek. I was impressed.

After our lunch, we continued to Huayllambamba— our first day’s ending destination. We had about two more hours of hiking left after lunch —passing a few little villages along the way.

 

The porters were nothing short of amazing. They carried everything we needed for the next four days – tents, sleeping bags, air mattresses for nine people, a camp stove, food supplies, pots, pans, dishes, silverware, and even a portable private toilet for our convenience. No need to search for a tree!

Upon reaching the Huayllambamba campsite (meaning “grassy plain” in Quechua), we found everything ready – air mattresses fully inflated, sleeping bags neatly arranged. After slipping off our boots, we relaxed on our comfortable beds. Despite a brief rain shower just before reaching camp, the day had been wonderful.

Dinner, like lunch, was delicious and plentiful.

We went to bed early, knowing Dead Woman’s pass awaited us the next day.

Distance hiked: The distance covered today was 14 km (8.6 miles) — KM82 in Ollyantambo to Huayllambamba. I would stay we hiked for about 6.5 hours.
The Campsite elevation at Huayllambamba campsite was 2,750 meters above sea level.
From everything I read about this hike, day one was considered a moderate hike, and I would totally agree.

Day Two on the Inca Trail

Our second day began with an early wake-up from one of the porters—seemingly at dawn. Still half asleep, I unzipped the tent. After washing up, we sipped on hot cups of coca tea— believed to help ward off altitude sickness. I drank mine — Morgan passed on hers.

We dressed and then headed to our dining tent, where we enjoyed a hearty breakfast before heading out on the second day’s journey. Today was the real challenge. If Morgan and I could make it to Dead Woman’s Pass, I was confident we could finish the hike.

Fletcher’s steady encouragement kept us moving through the rugged terrain and thin mountain air. We took it slow and steady, following his advice to go ‘Pole Pole’ (slowly, slowly). I paused often to catch my breath and chewed on coca leaves to help with the effects of the altitude.

The day’s hike included stretches of stone stairs, which were tough but rewarded us with incredible views. After a slow and steady climb, we finally reached Dead Woman’s Pass (Warmihuañusca summit) at 4,200 meters.

Standing at the summit felt amazing. While the altitude made it challenging, the climb itself wasn’t quite as tough as I had expected. Still, the combination of hiking and high altitude made for a demanding day.

Tackling Dead Woman’s pass proved to be both awe-inspiring and physically challenging, but we did it.

It had taken us almost 4 hours to reach Dead Woman’s pass and then another two hours to get Pacaymayu —today’s spot for lunch. And believe me, we had worked up quite an appetite. Once again, our crew had everything ready for us as we collapsed at our lunch table— ready to eat.

After lunch, we tackled a second pass— Runkuracay (though not as tough as Dead Woman’s had been), taking a couple of hours to complete and ending at Runkuracay, another ancient Inca site.

We left Runkuracay and reached the Inca site of Sayacmarca after about an hour. After exploring the ruins, we continued to our second campsite at Chaquicocha, where we kicked off our boots and rested before dinner. It had been a full day—two mountain passes, two Inca ruins, and excellent care from our crew.

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Runkuracay
Hiking the Inca Trail, Inca Trail, Peru, Hiking
Chaquicocha campsite

Distance hiked: we covered a total hiking distance of 16 km (9.9 miles) from Huayllabamba to Chaquicocha.
Hiking time was about 8 hours.
The elevation at Dead Woman’s Pass was 4,200 meters above sea level; the elevation at Runkuracay was 4000 meters above sea level.
The Campsite elevation at Chaquicocha was 3600 meters above sea level.
Today’s hike was strenuous, and I would rate it as challenging.

Day Three on the Inca Trail

We woke up to some strange animal sounds. When I unzipped our tent, I discovered a bunch of llamas right outside. It’s not every day that llamas startle you awake.

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Noisy Llamas outside our tent

Today, we crossed our third and final pass, Phuyupatamarca. While the entire hike had been beautiful, today’s stretch might have been the most breathtaking. The trail took us through lush forests and past incredible Inca sites, including Phuyupatamarca (Town in the Cloud), Intipata (Terrace of the Sun), and Wiñay Wayna (Forever Young).

The hike started with an easy, flat section for the first hour. After that, we tackled a 2.5-mile descent that had me relying heavily on my hiking poles. Descents always make me a bit nervous—I’m prone to ankle injuries and tend to tread carefully.

Intermittent rain throughout the day made the trail slippery, especially on the rock staircases, which required extra caution.

You can’t help but feel a strong connection to the ancient Inca civilization and appreciation for the dedication and skill needed to create such an extraordinary trail.

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Intipata
Hiking the Inca Trail, Inca Trail, Peru, Hiking
Winaywayna

Day three was easier than the previous day but still had its challenges. The downhill stretch felt longer than it was, even though we took our time. Reaching camp was a relief, especially knowing we were so close to Machu Picchu.

When we arrived, the crew greeted us with applause, celebrating our progress through the toughest parts of the trek. They had even decorated the dining tent with balloons, making the moment feel extra special.

That evening, we had the best meal of the trip, and to top it off, the chef surprised us with a cake decorated with icing—a thoughtful and unexpected touch. The day had been incredible, and I was truly impressed by how well we were cared for every step of the way. We turned in early, ready for the big day ahead.

Distance hiked: we covered a total hiking distance of 10 km (6.2 miles) from Chaquicocha to Wiñaywayna.
Hiking time was about 5 hours.
The Campsite elevation at the campsite was 3600 meters above sea level.
Today’s hike: though nowhere near as challenging as yesterday’s, I was exhausted by the end of the day. Going downhill has its own challenges.

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Wiñaywayna campsite - our last night

Day Four of the Inca Trail: Reaching Machu Picchu

On our fourth and final day, we began hiking at 4:30 a.m. to ensure we reached the entrance gate by 5:30 a.m. — it was roughly a 5 km hike to reach Machu Picchu. Despite some fatigue, a blend of exhaustion and excitement pushed us forward.

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The final check point befero Machu Picchu

At 4:30 a.m., we navigated the dark using our headlamps, adding to the adventure. The remaining trail took us through a cloud forest, eventually leading to one last stone staircase as we approached our ultimate destination – Machu Picchu.

As we entered the Sun Gate I (at the top of the stairs), we looked down upon the wonder that is Machu Picchu. Words can’t quite capture the emotions I felt at that moment. You must see it in person to grasp the stunning beauty of this ancient citadel and appreciate its historical importance, which left us truly moved.

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Looking at Machu Picchu from The Sun Gate
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We did it!

At Machu Picchu, Fletcher led us through the buildings, sharing insights about this incredible architectural wonder.

After a few hours, we hugged Fletcher goodbye, thanking him for his encouragement and guidance, and then caught a bus bringing us to the village of Augus Calientes, where I had booked a cheap hotel room so we could take our first shower since the start of the hike.

Once showered, we grabbed a bite to eat and enjoyed a celebratory Pisco sour. Then we said goodbye to this incredible place and hopped a train from Aguas Calientes Railroad Station to Ollantaytambo Railroad Station and then back to our night hotel.

Distance hiked: we covered a total hiking distance of 5 km (3 miles) from Wiñaywayna to Machu Picchu.
Hiking time was about 1.5 hours. The entire hike was approximately 28 miles.

Unforgettable Moments: A 4-Day Journey to Machu Picchu

The 4-day hike to Machu Picchu with my daughter was even better than I expected. It challenged us, brought us closer, and gave us the chance to see some truly amazing sites. From crossing Dead Woman’s Pass to taking in the views along the trail and finally reaching the Sun Gate with its incredible view of Machu Picchu, it’s an experience I’ll never forget.

For us, even though Machu Picchu was absolutely stunning, Morgan and I both agreed that the real highlight was the journey itself—hiking the trail and exploring the lesser-known sites along the way.

The team took great care of us every step of the way. The meals our chef made were delicious, and our guide, Fletcher, was fantastic. With the challenges of the hike, I couldn’t have asked for better support.

Alpaca Expeditions is a local company that really impressed me. They care about their country, the environment, and supporting local communities.

“In the variety of its charms and the power of its spell, I know of no other place in the weld which can compare with it.”

My advice? Wear comfortable hiking boots, pack a durable poncho, bring sturdy hiking poles, and take your time. Enjoy the journey at your own pace—it’s not a race! The hike is moderately challenging, so being in good health will help you fully appreciate the incredible beauty and history along the way. For me, it was one of the most amazing experiences I’ve ever had, and I can’t recommend it enough.