I first visited Dingle back in 2008 and immediately fell in love. That trip made me realize I needed to explore more of Dingle and the surrounding area. Then I heard about a hike that winds around the peninsula, connecting one village to another—The Dingle Way.
I couldn’t stop thinking about it. Although I wasn’t sure when I’d get the chance, the idea of spending my days hiking around the Dingle Peninsula—with its mountains, fields, and wild beaches—was irresistible.
Over the years, I heard more about The Dingle Way from fellow travelers, and each mention only fueled my desire to hike it. I finally decided to turn my dream into reality. I contacted Hillwalk Tours, a company I had used the previous year, for a hike on the Rob Roy Way in Scotland.
Hillwalk Tours took care of everything, from accommodations to daily baggage transfers—all I had to do was enjoy my days hiking. They offer self-guided hikes that vary in length and difficulty. I chose the moderate option, aiming to cover a good distance while still taking in all the scenery.
Each day’s hike averaged 10.5 miles and was filled with breathtaking views, charming villages, and cozy B&Bs, where we enjoyed hearty breakfasts each morning. Every village had at least a couple of pubs, perfect for grabbing a pint and dinner.
Most B&Bs packed lunches for us, and Hillwalk Tours provided suggestions on where to pick up sandwiches and snacks for the few B&Bs that didn’t. They really thought of everything.
The Dingle Peninsula, located in County Kerry on Ireland’s southwest coast, is a 30-mile stretch filled with small villages, each offering its own unique charm.
Dublin to Tralee
We flew into Dublin and spent a few days exploring the city before taking the Irish Rail from Dublin Heuston Station to Tralee Casement Station—a journey of roughly four hours.
Tralee was where I’d begin hiking The Dingle Way the next day.
In my blog post, Exploring Dublin: A 3-Day Adventure, I share my experiences in Dublin.
Tralee, the capital of County Kerry, is a mix of history and modern charm. Founded by the Normans in 1216, the town’s character is reflected in its 18th-century architecture, especially on streets like Denny Street and Day Place.
Fun Fact: Tralee is world-famous for the Rose of Tralee competition, where Irish women and those of Irish descent showcase their personalities rather than just their looks. The event culminates with a gala ball and a ‘midnight madness’ parade led by the newly crowned Rose of Tralee.
There were plenty of cabs waiting at the Tralee station. So, we grabbed one and headed to The Grand Hotel Tralee —lodging for the night. The Grand Hotel was beautiful, with an old-world charm, and its central location was perfect for exploring on foot.
Cab drivers are always a wealth of information, so as we drove to the hotel, I asked my driver for his recommendation on the best pub in the area. He mentioned a few but said his favorite was Sean Og’s Drinking Consultants. Aside from pouring a good Guinness, he mentioned that Sean Og’s had traditional music most nights—something I made a mental note of.
Once we settled in at our hotel, we headed over to Sean Og’s. As we walked in, the bartender and regulars were deep in conversation, with colorful language—especially the word ‘FUCK’—flying around freely. I couldn’t help but laugh, realizing I’d found my kind of place—laid-back and full of life. And true to my taxi driver’s word, they sure did pour a great Guinness.
Sean Og’s doesn’t serve food, and since I was getting hungry, I asked the bartender for a good place to eat. He—let’s call him A since I couldn’t remember his name—told us to return later for live music at 9:30 pm. In the meantime, he told us about a spot with great chips—The Green Rooster, or as the locals call it, Greasie Jimmy’s. How can you not want to eat at a place with a name like that?
Eager to try those famous chips (and maybe a veggie burger), we set out, but I completely forgot the place’s real name. So, I asked a local if they knew where Greasie Jimmy’s was, and sure enough, he knew exactly what I was talking about and pointed us in the right direction. The Green Rooster, aka Greasie Jimmy’s, has been in business since 1949, making it one of the longest-running family businesses in Tralee. Surprisingly, the chips were even better than expected—not greasy at all.
Later that night, we returned to Sean Og’s for the live music. The band was incredible, and what was supposed to be a quick stop turned into a two-hour stay. It was the perfect way to end our night in Tralee before starting our hike.
Tralee to Camp
After a hearty Irish breakfast—coffee, eggs, and some famous Irish brown bread—we set off from Tralee, following a path that ran alongside the canal and out of town, passing by the iconic Blennerville Windmill—the largest working windmill in the British Isles.
As we continued, we passed cows grazing or lying in the fields and hundreds of yellow flowering bushes known as Gorse lining the trail and much of the green pastures. Old stone walls crisscrossed the green landscape, with plenty of sheep scattered around. It’s not like I haven’t seen sheep before, but somehow, they look perfect in Ireland (and in Scotland, too).
The trail was a mix of rugged, wet, and muddy patches—no surprise, given the typical weather in Ireland.
The hike ended at The Junction, a pub conveniently located across the street from Camp Junction House, our B&B for the night in the Village of Camp.
After chatting with some locals, we learned that all the restaurants in Camp were closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Thankfully, the bartender at The Junction said not to worry—she’d make us toasties—a dry-grilled cheese sandwich with tomatoes and red onion. We returned later that evening to enjoy them.
Camp to Annascaul
Today’s hike was 10.5 miles, taking us along old country roads, rocky farm tracks, and grassy hillsides. In places, the Emlagh River ran alongside the path, and the Slieve Mish Mountains were in the distance, adding to the dramatic landscape. The stone walls continued to zigzag across the landscape. I expected rain—it was Ireland, after all—but surprisingly, it didn’t.
In the afternoon, we reached Inch Beach, a vast stretch of gorgeous sandy shoreline—“gorgeous” doesn’t quite capture it. I made sure to stand by the water’s edge, taking in the sound of the waves, the smell of the ocean, and the sheer beauty of it all.
The second day’s hike ended in the village of Annascaul—the birthplace of Antarctica explorer Tom Crean. After surviving Captain Scott’s South Pole expedition and Shackleton’s ‘Endurance’ voyage, Crean returned to this quiet village and opened the South Pole Inn, where he lived until his death in 1938.
Lodging for the night was The Old Anchor Inn, which was run by a lovely and friendly couple on the town’s main street—literally, it was on Main Street.
Annascaul is a small village with four pubs, and we managed to visit three of them (the fourth was closed that day). Our first pub stop was the popular South Pole Inn, where we enjoyed pints of Guinness, chips, a warm bowl of vegetable soup—and some delicious brown bread.
The walls were covered with photographs from the expeditions Tom Crean had been on.
Next, we headed to Patcheen’s Pub, where a lively conversation with two locals, full of laughter, ended with them buying us a round of beers. I still laugh when I relive the conversation in my head—it was absurd, like something straight out of the movie Waking Ned Devine (if you haven’t watched it, I highly recommend it).
Our third pub was Hanafins, where we cozied up by a peat fire, swapping stories with some locals over another pint. They had a reputation for pouring the best pint of Guinness in town.
After learning that Tom Crean was buried at Ballynacourty Cemetery, we decided to walk the mile and a half to visit his grave. The walk wasn’t as straightforward as we thought, with a few unexpected turns. Fortunately, just as we were about to give up, a local pointed us in the right direction. We arrived at the cemetery at dusk, but there was still enough light to find his grave. I’m glad we made it and were able to pay our respects.
Annascaul to Dingle
After a fabulous breakfast of pancakes and fresh fruit at our B&B, we left town, passing a statue of Tom Crean on our way out of town.
We followed winding back roads that led us down to the sea, where the ruins of Minard Castle came into view. Rumor has it that this castle was built in the 16th century by the Knight of Kerry. These ruins once stood as a defense against Cromwellian forces.
The area around Minard Castle was lonely, harsh, and desolate, offering a glimpse into how it might have been to live here centuries ago.
While there, I walked along the stone beach beneath Minard Castle. The beach, with its smooth and weathered stones, only added to the rugged beauty of the area.
Part of the trail passed through landowner’s fields, and where the stone walls stood, there were turnstiles to pass through or steps that led over. Gorse continued to line much of the stone wall along the way.
Our third day’s hike ended in Dingle—the biggest village on the Peninsula. The town has a lively feel, with pubs on almost every corner, each with its own unique charm—Dingle is home to about 50 pubs, so there’s plenty to explore. Whether it’s the music, the food, or just a good pint, you can’t help but have a good time here. Beyond the pub fare, Dingle is also home to some really fantastic restaurants.
And if you’re looking for more, there’s an aquarium, plenty of little shops to browse, and a harbor where you can hop on a boat for whale watching or a trip to the Blasket Islands.
You can read more about the Village of Dingle in my blog: Exploring Dingle: 3 Days of Adventure, Culture, and Charm.
Dingle (actually, it was Ventry) to Slea Head/ Dunquin
We had a comfortable stay at Brosnan’s B&B, a cozy spot close to town. Our morning began with a steaming cup of coffee, Irish brown bread, and the most delicious homemade granola with fruit and yogurt—a perfect start to my day! The brown bread served here was the best I’d had on the trip. Seeing how much I loved the bread, our host gave me a couple of extra slices to pack for later. My only regret is that I didn’t ask for her recipe.
A section of the hike near Dingle was closed, so a driver from Hillwalk Tours took us to our starting point for the day.
The hike began with a beautiful stretch along Ventry Beach. The sound of the waves was almost hypnotic, and I enjoyed the silence as I walked—gorgeous pink flowers known as Armeria Maritima lined the coastline.
Eventually, The Dingle Way brought us to quiet country roads, surrounded by lush green fields dotted with sheep. The wet ground also meant we saw plenty of snails. Stone walls stretched across the landscape as far as the eye could see, and for much of the hike, the sea was visible off to our left.
Nearing Dunquin, we continued on a mountain path that ran parallel to the ocean. At various points, I stopped along the cliff top to take in the stunning views all around me— the vast ocean seemed to stretch on forever.
At one point, I spotted old stone structures known as beehive huts or beehive cells. These small, circular stone buildings with conical roofs were built using dry stone masonry and were used as dwellings or storage rooms by early Christian hermits.
Today’s hike was one of the longer days—13.5 miles. Finally, the winding road led us to Krugers Pub, known as ‘the most westerly pub in Europe.’
As the social hub of the village, it was no surprise to walk into a lively bachelor party where the future groom was hilariously dressed in a wedding dress. In the next room, a communion was taking place, filled with lots of kids and families. The contrast between the two scenes totally cracked me up—only in Ireland!
This portion of The Dingle Way took me along coastal roads with beautiful views of The Great Blasket Island, passing pristine beaches like Clogher Strand and Béal Bán Beach. As I neared the end of the hike, dark clouds gave way to heavy rain, leaving me cold and soaked by the time I reached Ballyferriter. But I’d prepared for rain with a rain jacket and pants, but unfortunately—those damn boots of mine were wet once again.
Seeking shelter, I ducked into a local pub—Tig An T Saoraigh, before heading to my B&B. The soup of the day—a hearty vegetable and brown bread—was just what I needed to warm up.
While enjoying my meal, I chatted with the bartender, who told me her grandfather, a Guiheen, was among the last residents to leave The Great Blasket Island in the 1950s. She mentioned that remnants of his house still stand on the island.
With the rain still coming down, we decided to visit every pub in town—four in total! The pubs were filled with locals all watching Gaelic football and cheering for the Kerry team—who happened to win that day. Each pub had its own unique charm, and it was fun just being there enjoying an Irish Coffee while taking it all in.
Hiked Ballyferriter to Cuas
Ballyferriter to Caus was one of those days that sticks with you—a perfect stretch along The Dingle Way. The hike took me across beaches, coastal roads, and grassy cliff-top paths—postcard-perfect.
The cliffs were dotted with pink Armeria Maritima, adding vibrant pops of color to the rocky landscape. The farm fields were beautiful in every imaginable shade of green, stretched out like a patchwork quilt.
At one point, we veered off the trail to visit the Gallarus Oratory, an ancient stone structure that almost resembled a small, upturned boat. The walls of the Oratory were carefully stacked without mortar—simple yet awe-inspiring craftsmanship. Sitting alone among the rolling fields and rugged scenery, the place had such a peaceful feel to it.
Back on The Dingle Way, I walked along Muiríoch Beach, feeling the breeze on my face, listening to the waves crashing, and breathing in the salty air. I tried to take it all in.
We stayed at Imeall na Mara House(which means Seashore House) in Ballydavid—overlooking the Smerwick Harbor. There was only one pub nearby—An Bother Pub—and thankfully, it was open, or we would have gone without dinner.
Hiked Southern Route: Glin North – Cloghane
After spending the night in Ballydavid, our B&B host drove us to our starting point for the day.
The path took us uphill through a pine forest, getting rougher as we neared Masatiompan, a northern offshoot of Mount Brandon and the steepest climb on the Dingle Way. Strong winds and some slippery spots made the hike tough at times, but as we began our descent, the wind started to calm. And the green fields stretching out as far as I could see—were beautiful.
Though the forecast predicted rain, we were lucky to have clear skies. The morning began with heavy clouds and strong winds, but by afternoon, the sky had turned bright blue.
The Slieve Mish Mountains served as a dramatic backdrop throughout the hike. At one point, we spotted beautiful lakes like Lough Gal and Lough Duff in the distance.
As I neared Cloghane, the path cut through wide fields where I noticed bricks of peat drying in the sun. In many rural areas, peat is used as fuel—decomposed plant material cut from bogs, dried, and burned in stoves and fireplaces for heat.
When we finally reached Cloghane, located at the foot of Mount Brandon, we spotted O’Connor’s Pub and Guest House —with a purple facade that caught my eye. We decided to stop in for a beer and a bowl of soup. The soup was excellent, but the real highlight was their brown bread. It was darker than any I’d had elsewhere and had a rich molasses-like flavor. It was fantastic.
While enjoying our lunch, we met the pub owner, who was friendly and engaging. He was also a great storyteller. One of the stories he shared was about a German Luftwaffe plane, a Focke-Wulf 200 ‘Condor,’ that crash-landed on Faha Ridge above Cloghane on August 20, 1940. The crew of six survived and were the first German aircrew to land in Ireland during the war; they were interned for the rest of the conflict. I loved listening to his stories.
Oh, and that wrecked German Luftwaffe plane—the pub owner had parts of it displayed around his pub. He also had an Academy Award statue—but that’s another story.
We stayed at the Mount Brandon Lodge B&B, a cozy place run by an older couple just down the road from O’Connor’s. While there, we met a couple —Candy and Al, who were also hiking The Dingle Way.
The four of us ended up going back to O’Connor’s for dinner and drinks later that evening. While there, we enjoyed more of the owner’s stories.
Cloghane to Scraggane Pier
Today’s hike along the Dingle Way was another feast for the senses. The narrow, single-track roads led me out of town, across stone bridges, and past fields where sheep grazed peacefully.
Eventually, I arrived at Fermoyle Strand, the longest beach on the Wild Atlantic Way. I couldn’t resist taking off my boots and dipping my toes into the icy water.
Fermoyle Strand was a highlight—its golden sands and crashing waves were truly breathtaking.
From there, I continued toward Scraggane Pier, my endpoint for the day.
Along Fermoyle Strand, I stumbled upon a hag stone, also known as a fairy stone. These unique stones, with naturally occurring holes, are believed to bring luck and are often thought to have magical or spiritual significance.
Scraggane Pier to Camp
Most of today’s hike was along the beach, with a few sections on narrow, one-lane country roads. At one point, I paused to listen to Mary Black‘s version of “Song for Ireland,” and I was overcome with emotion. Standing on the rocks, I found myself in tears—so deeply moved by the beauty and spirit of this place.
After our long and final day of hiking The Dingle Way, we arrived at Camp (the name of a village) and headed to Ashe’s Coffee Shop—our designated pickup spot. Unfortunately, the coffee shop had just closed for the day, and we were so hoping for an ice-cold beer. The owner apologized and then left, returning a few minutes later with a plate of mini lemon meringue pies—they were delicious.
Shortly after, we were picked up and driven to Tralee, where we’d be staying the night.
Our final evening was spent at Sean Og’s, which I’m convinced is the best pub in Tralee. We raised our glasses of Guinness and shared laughs with Candy and Al, the fellow hikers we had met in Cloghane a couple of days earlier.
The atmosphere was fun and lively, with a popular duo playing traditional Irish music. It felt like the whole village had come out to celebrate with us
Before catching a taxi back to Dingle for a few more days of exploration, I took a stroll around Tralee. As luck would have it, I found an open pub and couldn’t resist one last drink to cap off an unforgettable journey.
A perfect journey on The Dingle Way
My nine-day hike along The Dingle Way, covering 94 miles of the 111-mile trail, was an unforgettable experience. The route offered a variety of landscapes, from sandy beaches and quiet country roads to rugged cliffs. I met fellow hikers like Candy and Dan from North Carolina and enjoyed the welcoming vibe in local pubs such as O’Connors in Cloghane and Sean Og’s in Tralee.
Hillwalk Tours did an excellent job, making this adventure truly memorable. Overall, The Dingle Way exceeded my expectations, and I’d gladly do it all over again.
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