I planned a 10-day trip through southern Albania for my daughter and me, with Tirana as our starting point. Set between Mount Dajti and the coastal plains, the city felt like a place in transition—layered with history, shaped by recent change, and very much lived in.
From Tirana, we would head south through UNESCO-listed towns, over rugged mountain passes, and eventually down to the Ionian coast. Each stop added something different, creating a trip that balanced culture, landscape, and time outdoors.
But first, we spent two days getting to know Albania’s capital.
For a fuller look at the journey beyond Tirana, you can find the complete itinerary here: Southern Albania: 10 Day of Culture, Nature & Costal Charm.
Tirana has a diverse architectural landscape, with Ottoman-era buildings, Italian-style facades, Communist-era blocks, and modern developments. Its architecture includes Ottoman-era buildings, Italian-style facades, Communist-era blocks, and modern developments. At the heart of the city is Skanderbeg Square, where you’ll find key landmarks like the National History Museum and the Opera House. Unlike the quaint old towns of many Eastern European capitals, central Tirana is known for its bold Communist-era architecture. These concrete blocks, once plain and grey, have been brightly painted, turning the city into one of the most colorful capitals in Europe, thanks to initiatives by former Mayor Edi Rama.
I started the day by heading to Skanderbeg Square —the heart of the city. It is named after the national hero Gjergj Kastrioti Skanderbeg, who is celebrated for his resistance against the Ottomans in the 15th century. Dominating the square is a striking statue of Skanderbeg on horseback.
The square is encircled by important buildings, including the National History Museum. The museum is particularly notable for its mosaic façade titled “The Albanians.” This expansive mosaic traces key moments in Albanian history from the Illyrian period through to World War II. Crafted in the 1980s by Albanian artists using local stones, its vibrant colors and grand scale are not just visually striking but also a profound introduction to Albanian history. As someone who loves mosaics, I was deeply impressed by this artwork; it beautifully showcases Albania’s rich cultural heritage.
Other buildings around the square include the Opera House, the National Library, and various government offices. There are also plenty of small shops and cafés nearby. The square itself is a pedestrian zone and a popular gathering place for both locals and visitors, often used for public events. Its recent redesign incorporates fountains and stones sourced from across Albania, a subtle nod to national unity while giving the space a more open, contemporary feel.
As I walked through Tirana, I was really impressed by the street art. It’s everywhere—on walls, electrical boxes, and more. These artworks do more than brighten up the city—they tell its story.
One mural of Ismail Qemali stands out. It celebrates Albania’s independence and is hard to miss. Nearby, there’s a piece honoring the Five Heroes of Vig, which showing the strength of the Albanian people.
Another piece that caught my eye was “The Three Boys Behind Barbed Wire,” which depicts life under Albania’s communist regime and makes you think about the value of freedom. Over in the Blloku district, there’s a colorful mural called “The Dream” by Franko Dine, which captures the youthful energy of the area.
Some murals highlight environmental issues, reminding us of Albania’s natural beauty and the importance of protecting it. The vibrant murals add energy to the city, filling its streets with color and character.
Following a recommendation from a local guide, I went to Oda Restaurant for lunch. The space feels more like someone’s home than a restaurant, with low tables, shelves of objects, and a relaxed, lived-in atmosphere. As a vegetarian, I was especially happy to find so many traditional Albanian dishes that didn’t feel like afterthoughts. The stuffed eggplant and peppers were especially good, along with simple wheat pies filled with leek or spinach and a plate of spicy rice balls. It was an easy, satisfying meal and a nice introduction to traditional Albanian food.
After lunch I headed to The Pyramid —one of the city’s most distinctive landmarks. Originally constructed to honor the dictator Enver Hoxha, it has undergone several transformations, serving as a museum, a conference center, and even a NATO command center during the Kosovo War. Today, its dilapidated condition makes it a striking feature of the cityscape, with local youths often seen climbing its steep, crumbling sides.
On my first evening in Tirana, I had dinner at Gloria, an Italian /Mediterranean restaurant that hit all the right notes. The food was delicious, the staff was friendly and attentive, and the prices were reasonable. The dining room had a lovely atmosphere, with white tablecloths adding a touch of elegance. Located just a short distance from the city center, Gloria managed to strike a balance between accessibility and avoiding the tourist crowds. It was a pleasant start to my time in Tirana, and I left feeling satisfied and eager to explore more of the city’s culinary scene.
I visited a memorial dedicated to Azem Hajdari and his bodyguard, serving as a poignant reminder of their tragic deaths in 1998. The memorial is a simple plaque with their names and a brief description. It is adorned with flowers and candles left by visitors.
Blloku is the lively epicenter of Tirana’s social scene. Formerly reserved for the Communist Party elite, this neighborhood is now teeming with vibrant cafes and boutiques. Its fusion of work-friendly environments and lively social ambiance provides a glimpse into the city’s distinct charm.
Tirana is dotted with small, dome-shaped concrete bunkers built during Enver Hoxha’s dictatorship as part of Albania’s extensive Cold War defenses. These bunkers, once symbols of the country’s isolation and fear, are now repurposed for modern use. Around the city, you can find these bunkers serving as cafes, art installations, and even small businesses. This transformation turns a once oppressive symbol into a practical and creative part of the city’s landscape, showcasing Tirana’s ability to reimagine its history.
I visited Bunk’Art 2 — a highly unique museum set within a former bunker. Built in the 1970s to protect Albania’s political elite, including communist dictator Enver Hoxha, from nuclear threats, it has been transformed into a museum that delves into Albania’s communist past.
The museum is expansive, spanning five levels with over 100 rooms, including Hoxha’s personal quarters. It offers an immersive glimpse into life under communism, with original artifacts, photographs, and multimedia exhibits that cover aspects from daily routines to government surveillance and repression. Walking through the tunnels and rooms gave a clear sense of how tightly controlled life once was.
Although I didn’t get to visit Bunk’Art 1, which focuses on the secret police and surveillance during the communist era, Bunk’Art 2 provided a thorough overview of that pivotal period in Albanian history
I took a walk across the Tanners’ Bridge in Tirana, an 18th-century Ottoman bridge that was once a vital connection to the eastern highlands. This quiet landmark provided a peaceful break and a strong sense of the city’s historical depth. At one time, it was the main route between Tirana and the highlands to the east.
I ended the evening at the Panoramic Bar and Restaurant on top of the Sky Hotel for the views. The bar rotates, which I hadn’t realized until I was already seated. As the sun set, the city slowly shifted below—blocks of color, traffic, and rooftops turning in a full circle. It was a nice way to see Tirana from above.
I stayed at Sar’Otel Boutique Hotel because of its central location, which made it easy to get around the city on foot. The staff was welcoming, and the rooms were comfortable. The hotel also has an on-site spa, and after a long flight, a hot stone massage felt especially well-timed.
Breakfast was included and generous, with plenty of options to start the day.
By the time I left, Tirana felt layered and full of contrast—colorful, busy, and framed by the surrounding mountains. It surprised me in ways I didn’t expect and turned out to be a strong starting point for the rest of the trip.
