A Day in Old Delhi's Chandni Chowk

Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi is a place I always look forward to visiting whenever I’m in the city. I’ve been there four times, and it never fails to excite me. Each visit brings new experiences and discoveries, making it a must-see on my itinerary every time I’m in Delhi.

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Immersed in the Chaos and Charm of Chandni Chowk

Stepping into Chandni Chowk, I’m immediately hit with sights, sounds, and smells. The narrow streets are packed with rickshaws, scooters, and the occasional cow. The chaotic tangle of electrical wires overhead is particularly striking, creating a unique canopy that adds to the bustling atmosphere. These wires have accumulated over time as the area became more populated, sometimes leading to power outages —often during peak hours. Despite these challenges, the jumbled wires somehow still manage to keep the area functioning, a testament to the resilience and adaptability of the local community.

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Electric wires form a chaotic tangle, crisscrossing overhead like a dense web above the narrow streets.
Just your average day in Chandni Chowk
Catching a nap

There’s an undeniable energy in Chandni Chowk that pulls me in. The daily hustle and bustle is an experience in itself, with every corner bursting with life. Workers use traditional coal-heated irons to press clothes, cobblers fix shoes, and women make carnation garlands.

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Man ironing clothes with old charcoal iron
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Stringing Carnation Garlands

Another type of worker you will find around Old Delhi’s Chandni Chowk is the “kaan saaf wallah,” who has been cleaning ears for generations.

These folks, often seen with red headscarves or turbans, use simple tools like small metal scoops. They set up shop by the roadside or on street corners, ready to help anyone passing by. Ear cleaning in this traditional way is a significant part of Indian culture, offering both a service and a soothing experience.

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Kaan saaf wallahs aka ear cleaner, taking a break

Rickshaws and motorbikes weave through the crowded streets, narrowly avoiding pedestrians. Street vendors call out to passersby, selling everything from colorful bangles to vibrant textiles. The air is filled with the aroma of street food being prepared — the sound of sizzling pans and the clatter of cooking utensils add to the lively atmosphere.

Everywhere you look, there’s activity: shopkeepers arranging their wares, children playing in the alleys, and people navigating the narrow lanes. Wagons loaded with goods are pushed through the crowds, and people carry baskets filled with bread or other items on their heads and shoulders. The occasional bell of a cycle rickshaw and the chatter of bargaining customers create a constant buzz. The vibrant colors, the mixture of sounds, and the ever-present aroma of spices and food make Chandni Chowk a sensory overload. 

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A wagon full of woven baskets
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Print shop

Savoring Street Food in Old Delhi’s Chandni Chowk

I followed my nose to a fourth-generation vegetarian street food vendor catering to the Baniya community from Gujarat and Rajasthan. His specialties—Golgappa or Pani Puri (hollow puris filled with tangy tamarind water, spicy potatoes, and chickpeas), Kulcha Chole (a combination of two dishes—a flatbread and a spicy salad of sorts with well-cooked white peas or a cooked curry), and Bedmi Puri (a crisp, deep-fried Indian bread).

I chose the Kulcha Chole, a popular North Indian snack of boiled chickpeas and spices served with fried bread. It was perfectly spiced and delicious.

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4th Generation Food Vendor
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Making Aloo Chat —seasoned potatoes and one of my favorite street foods
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Frying up some bread

While exploring, I passed by vendors making stuffed Parathas sizzling on hot griddles and Dosas, thin, crispy pancakes made from fermented rice batter, served with a variety of chutneys and sambar. The sight and aromas of these dishes were mouthwatering.

There were also vendors making samosas, a popular street food with a crispy, golden-brown pastry exterior and a savory filling of spiced potatoes and peas. They seemed to be a local favorite.

I tried kulla chaat from a well-known vendor. It is a cold, sweet pineapple cup filled with pomegranate, boiled grams, masala, and lemon juice. The combination of sweet, tangy, and savory flavors was unlike anything I’d had before—a perfect snack on such a hot day.

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Kulla chaat
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Helping to stir a sweet cheese at a busy cheese shop in Chandni Chowk

A Tuk-Tuk Ride Through Chandni Chowk

Our guide flagged down a tuk-tuk (known here as an auto rickshaw) driver to take us to another part of the market. The ride through Chandni Chowk’s narrow, crowded lanes was a thrilling blend of excitement and exhilaration. With adept skill, the driver navigated the chaotic traffic, deftly dodging pedestrians, cyclists, and the ubiquitous motorbikes and rickshaws with mere inches to spare, amplifying the exhilarating rush of the experience.

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A tuk tuk aka auto rickshaw

The bumpy tuk-tuk ride offered a different perspective of the market. We passed shops selling colorful fabrics, sparkling jewelry, and aromatic spices. The open sides of the tuk-tuk provided relief from the heat and carried the scents of sizzling street food and exhaust fumes. Despite the bumpy ride, Chandni Chowk’s sheer vibrancy and energy made me smile.

Exploring the Vibrant Markets of Chandni Chowk

Chandni Chowk is divided into sections specializing in a particular trade or product. Dariba Kalan is renowned for its exquisite jewelry and silver, with artisans crafting pieces that echo the Mughal era.

Khari Baoli, Asia’s largest wholesale spice market, greets you with an explosion of aromas and vivid colors. Established in 1650 during the reign of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, this market has been a part of Old Delhi for centuries. The heavy spice filling the air usually takes my breath away, but I always love walking in this particular section. The smells and colors create a feast for the senses. Vendors line the narrow streets with sacks of spices, dried fruits, and herbs, each adding to the market’s vibrant and chaotic charm.

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A scene from the spice market
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Katran Bazaar offers a huge variety of fabrics, from luxurious raw silk to intricately embroidered cotton.

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Some of the many fabrics for sale

Kinari Bazaar is a one-stop shop for wedding attire and accessories, catering to every need. Bhagirath Palace for electrical goods and Nai Sarak for books and stationery round out the market’s diverse offerings.

Discovering Old Delhi’s Architectural Charm

Old Delhi’s architecture is a fascinating blend of Mughal and colonial styles, reflecting the city’s rich history. Among the most captivating structures are the havelis, grand mansions once home to wealthy merchants and nobility. These havelis are architectural marvels, showcasing intricate woodwork, decorative balconies, and spacious courtyards.

Many of these havelis have stood the test of time, though not without changes. Economic shifts and urbanization have led to the partitioning of these once-grand homes into smaller apartments. This often results in complex tenant situations where sections of the haveli are rented out, making eviction difficult for landlords. Despite this, the essence of their historical and architectural grandeur remains.

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An example of a haveli

During the tour, we visited several havelis, many of which were beautiful yet dilapidated structures in dire need of restoration. At one haveli, a family residing there welcomed us inside. As we wandered through, it was effortless to envision its former grandeur.

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The inside of a former haveli
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The inside of another haveli

Visiting these havelis felt like stepping back in time. Even though they’re a bit worn down, you can still see the amazing craftsmanship in the architecture. A lot of these Havelis have intricate carvings and beautiful courtyards that used to be the heart of family life and social gatherings. They’re such a key part of Old Delhi’s heritage, mixing historical charm with the hustle and bustle of modern life.

The Beautiful Doors of Chandni Chowk

As I wandered through Chandni Chowk, I made sure to look at the beautiful doors. Often ornately carved and painted, many of these doors lead to hidden courtyards that offer a peaceful respite from the bustling streets. These courtyards, once private retreats for the residents, now provide a glimpse into the past and the daily lives of those who lived there. The doors are works of art, showcasing the intricate craftsmanship and attention to detail that went into building these historic homes.

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A gorgeous doorway
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Another beautiful door

Temples in Chandni Chowk


Chandni Chowk is not just about bustling markets and grand havelis; it’s also home to numerous temples that add to the area’s cultural and spiritual richness. The temples here blend different faiths, reflecting India’s diverse religious heritage.

Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib: One of the most prominent temples in Chandni Chowk is Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib, a Sikh temple that marks the site where Guru Tegh Bahadur, the ninth Sikh Guru, was executed by Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in 1675. This gurdwara is a spiritual center and a vibrant community hub. It hosts a langar (community kitchen) where volunteers prepare free meals for thousands of people daily. In 2019, I had the opportunity to help roll out bread here, connecting with the community and experiencing the Sikh principle of seva (selfless service).

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Volunteer making bread

Jama Masjid: Another iconic religious site is Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in India. Built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in the 17th century, its grand architecture and serene ambiance provide a stark contrast to the bustling streets of Chandni Chowk. The mosque’s massive courtyard can accommodate over 25,000 worshippers, making it a significant site for the local Muslim community.

Sri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir: Located near the Red Fort, this is Delhi’s oldest and best-known Jain temple. Known for its stunning red sandstone structure, the temple is dedicated to Lord Parshvanath, the 23rd Tirthankara. It also houses a bird hospital, reflecting the Jain principle of non-violence and compassion towards all living beings.

Shri Gauri Shankar Temple: This 800-year-old temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is on the main Chandni Chowk road. It features an eight-foot-high brown lingam (a representation of Lord Shiva) encased in a marble structure. The temple is a significant place of worship for Hindus and attracts devotees from across the city.

Exploring these temples gave me a deeper understanding of the area’s cultural and spiritual fabric. Each temple, with its unique history and architectural style, adds a layer of richness to the Chandni Chowk experience.

Guided tours are a fantastic option for those looking to delve into Old Delhi’s heritage and authentic food. I highly recommend Tours by Master Jikee Haveli. I’ve used this company four times, and each tour concludes with a delicious home-cooked Indian feast at the owner’s home, Dhruv. 

Every corner of Chandni Chowk has a story to tell, rich with history yet buzzing with contemporary life. From the fragrant spices and glittering jewelry to the colorful textiles and lively electronic goods markets, Chandni Chowk effortlessly combines the old with the new, making it a truly unique and unforgettable part of Old Delhi.

Some important tips when wandering the area:

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A perfect way to end the tour —relaxing at Dhruv's home
  1. Stay Hydrated: Always carry bottled water to ensure you stay hydrated as you navigate through the busy streets. It’s best to stick to sealed bottled water to avoid any health issues from local tap water.
  2. Dress Appropriately: Considering the cultural norms and the dense crowds, it’s wise to wear comfortable and modest clothing. This not only respects local customs but also helps you blend in more easily.
  3. Watch your Belongings: With the crowded and often chaotic streets, it’s crucial to keep a close watch on your personal belongings. Use a secure bag and keep it in front of you, especially as pickpocketing can be common in crowded places.
  4. Stay Alert to Traffic: The traffic in Chandni Chowk can be overwhelming, with cars, rickshaws, and pedestrians all sharing the same space. Always stay alert and be cautious when crossing streets.
  5. Wear Comfortable Shoes: Opt for sturdy, comfortable footwear, as you’ll be walking a lot on uneven surfaces.
  6. Negotiate Prices: Engage in bargaining when shopping; it’s expected and part of the local shopping culture.
  7. And most importantly —have fun!

Despite the chaos, immerse yourself in the vibrant energy of this lively Old Delhi Bazaar and enjoy the dynamic atmosphere. It is a perfect example of India as a whole—beautiful, colorful, rich with history, chaotic, and crowded. Stay tuned for a future blog where I will delve into all the other interesting things to see in Old Delhi and Delhi.