Edinburgh feels like walking through a storybook—at least in the Old Town, with its spires, cobbled streets, and a castle on a rocky hill right in the middle of it all. But the city is more than its postcard image. As Scotland’s capital for centuries, it’s home to Parliament, a long literary tradition, and two UNESCO World Heritage sites—the Old and New Towns together.
J.K. Rowling wrote parts of Harry Potter here, but other famous names—Robert Louis Stevenson, Sir Walter Scott, Arthur Conan Doyle—have left their mark, too. You see it everywhere: monuments, plaques, even cafés named after them.
I had four full days in Edinburgh, split between two visits: two solo days before my group hiking trip through the Highlands and two more after—before setting out on a self-guided hike along the Rob Roy Way with Hillwalk Tours. On my first stay, I was at the Bruntsfield Hotel in a quieter, more local part of the city, with leafy streets, small cafés, and The Meadows, a big park I crossed often on my way out exploring. When I returned, I checked into the Aparthotel Adagio, right on the Royal Mile in the heart of the Old Town.
I wandered into the New Town with its Georgian buildings, wide streets, and open squares around Princes and George Streets. Around Tollcross, near the Cameo Cinema, the vibe changed again—local pubs, small theaters, quieter streets. And Dean Village, with its cobblestones and riverside paths, kind of felt like stepping into a different city altogether.
What follows is about the four days I spent wandering this beautiful city. Edinburgh bookended the bigger adventures, but it was also one of my favorite parts of the trip.
After checking in at the Bruntsfield, I headed for Holyrood Park. Getting there took me through The Meadows and along quiet streets toward the city center. It’s about a mile’s walk—a perfect way to stretch my legs after the flight.
Holyrood Park is 650 acres of open grassland just outside the Old Town, with hills, lochs, glens, and plenty of wildlife and wildflowers—all with Arthur’s Seat rising in the background. I followed the path past St. Margaret’s Loch, where at least a couple dozen swans were gliding across the water or clustered along the shore.
From there, I climbed up to the ruins of St. Anthony’s Chapel. Only the stone walls remain, but the view over the loch and the city was worth the short hike. I kept going higher until I reached Arthur’s Seat itself—the summit of the park, with wide views over all of Edinburgh and out to the Firth of Forth. Farther along, the cliffs of Salisbury Crags rose steeply to my left, and I could spot Dunsapie Loch in the distance.
After leaving Holyrood Park, I headed toward the Royal Mile, stopping to peek into a few closes—narrow alleyways which often led into hidden courtyards—and at shop windows along the way. From there I cut over to Victoria Street, with its curve of colorful storefronts stacked on two levels, and eventually ended up in the Grassmarket.
These days it’s mostly pubs and cafés, but it used to be the city’s market square—and, more grimly, the site of public hangings.
At one point, the sound of a bagpipe carried down the street—one of those moments that makes you think, yep, I’m definitely in Scotland.
From the Grassmarket I made my way back up toward the Royal Mile. Along the way I stopped at a shop selling handmade knit hats and left with one covered in sheep—perfect for my upcoming Rob Roy Way hike.
Later that afternoon I walked east to the Old Calton Burial Ground, where David Hume’s memorial stands—a tall, domed monument that looks more like a classical temple than a gravestone. I’ve always found old cemeteries fascinating: reading the epitaphs, imagining the stories, and occasionally stumbling on a hidden corner of history.
By the time I made it back to the hotel, I was ready for dinner. I went to Thai Lemongrass Restaurant for a bowl of green curry with vegetables and tofu—just what I was in the mood for before calling it an early night.
The morning started with a walk to Calton Hill, about 20 minutes from Bruntsfield if you cut through Princes Street Gardens. The climb is short, but the views are huge—Old Town, the Firth of Forth, Arthur’s Seat. The hill’s dotted with monuments, including the half-built National Monument (nicknamed “Edinburgh’s Disgrace”), the Nelson Monument, and the Dugald Stewart Monument—the one you’ve seen on every postcard at sunset.
Heading toward the Royal Mile, I passed the bronze statue of David Hume. Supposedly, rubbing his toe brings good luck. So yes, I rubbed his toe. I can’t believe how many things I’ve rubbed for “good luck” while traveling—it’s a little ridiculous when you think about it.
Not long after, I spotted Levant Sweets. I walked past, then immediately turned around. Baklava will do that to me. I tried a few different kinds—flaky, sticky, nutty perfection.
Lunch was at Victor Hugo Deli, a spot I only ducked into because there was a line out the door. It ended up being one of my favorite meals of the trip: the Le Loire—goat cheese, peppers, salad, and tomato chutney on a freshly baked baguette. One bite and I understood the long lines.
Edinburgh Castle sits right in the middle of Old Town, and though I enjoyed seeing it from the outside, I decided to skip going in—too crowded for my taste. Instead, I headed somewhere quieter: Craigmillar Castle. The walk, about 45 minutes from my hotel, took me out of the city and through quiet neighborhoods before I finally spotted its grey stone walls.
Craigmillar is a ruin, but an impressively intact one. You can climb towers and wander through rooms, spiral staircases, ramparts, and a grassy courtyard. Mary, Queen of Scots stayed here in 1566, and Outlander fans might recognize it from Season 3, when it doubled as Ardsmuir Prison. When I arrived, there were only a couple of other visitors, so it felt like I had the place to myself. From the top, the views stretched all the way back to Edinburgh Castle.
Back in town, I stopped at St. Giles’ Cathedral and admired the central stained-glass window—a mix of Victorian and medieval style. Since I do stained glass as a hobby when I’m not traveling, I’m always on the lookout for it in new places.
Wandering along the Royal Mile, I got distracted by pub signs—painted stags, gold lettering, names that sound like they belong in an old novel. Some even hint at their own history, like The Last Drop in Grassmarket, a nod to the hangings that once took place there.
That evening I went to the Cameo Picturehouse, a vintage cinema on Home Street that’s been open since 1914 (I’d noticed it the day before). They were showing Top Gun: Maverick in about 15 minutes, so I skipped dinner and went in. Inside, it felt like stepping back in time—red velvet seats, terrazzo floors, and that cozy, worn-in atmosphere that makes you want to settle in for a double feature. I love the old movie-theater vibe.
Even though I had just arrived back in Edinburgh after a 10-day trip around Scotland, this was technically my third day here. It felt a bit backward, but I decided to hire a local guide to walk me through some of the areas I’d already explored—this time with the stories and history behind them.
We started along the Royal Mile, pausing at places like St. Giles’ Cathedral and the castle. I’d walked this stretch already, but now I learned that the castle holds Scotland’s Crown Jewels and the Stone of Destiny, used in coronations for centuries.
We stopped at the Writers’ Museum in Lady Stair’s Close. It focuses on Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson, with displays of their manuscripts, portraits, and personal belongings. These three are among Scotland’s most celebrated writers, and their influence is everywhere in Edinburgh.
From there we wandered into the New Town—Princes Street Gardens, George Street, and St. Andrew Square—with views stretching out toward the Firth of Forth. When we came to the Cafe Royal, my guide suggested we step inside to see the stained-glass windows. The panels showed British sportsmen from another era, and though I’d seen photos before, they were far more striking in person. The pub itself felt polished, one of the pricier spots in town, but worth it for the windows alone.
We looped back through the Grassmarket before stopping for lunch near Greyfriars Bobby—the bronze Skye Terrier who famously kept watch over his owner’s grave. Afterward, we wandered into Greyfriars Kirkyard, one of the city’s most famous cemeteries, tied to Covenanters, ghost stories, and even a few Harry Potter names. I didn’t go hunting for particular graves, but I liked the quiet of the place and the way old epitaphs hint at forgotten stories.
Once the tour wrapped up, I did a whisky tasting at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. It felt more polished and exclusive than a typical pub, specializing in single-cask whiskies you don’t usually find elsewhere. I’m no expert, but it was fun to compare the smoky and smooth varieties while learning a bit about how they’re made.
Later, I browsed shops along Princes Street and George Street, and in Princes Street Gardens I stopped at the floral clock—a working clock made entirely of flowers. By evening I climbed Calton Hill again. There are a few great spots in the city to watch the sunset, and Calton Hill is one of the best. I’d been up earlier in the trip, but in the late light the castle, Arthur’s Seat, and the Old Town looked completely different.
Dinner that night was at Vinyasa, an Indian restaurant just off the Royal Mile. On the way back I couldn’t resist stopping at Levant Sweets for another piece—or two—of baklava.
On my last day, I headed to Dean Village, a quiet, picturesque spot along the Water of Leith. The old mill buildings, stone bridges, and leafy riverside paths felt far removed from the bustle of the Royal Mile. Walking there, it was hard to believe I was still in the middle of Edinburgh.
On the way back along the river, I stopped at St. Bernard’s Well—a neoclassical temple built over a natural spring. Even though it was closed, it was worth pausing to admire the columns and the statue inside. The whole Water of Leith walkway felt like a hidden green corridor cutting through the city.
From there I continued north to the Royal Botanic Garden. It’s about a mile from the city center but feels like another world—70 acres of gardens, ponds, and glasshouses, with plants from all over the world. I wandered through the rock garden and along shaded paths, then stopped at a clearing where you can see the skyline in the distance. After days of cobblestones and castle views, it was a quiet, green break.
By early afternoon, I was back near the Royal Mile and stopped for a cider at Deacon Brodie’s Tavern. The pub is named after William Brodie, the respectable cabinetmaker by day and thief by night who supposedly inspired Robert Louis Stevenson’s Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. I grabbed a seat, did a little people-watching, and enjoyed the atmosphere.
Later, I went to The Elephant House for coffee and a snack. The café is famous as the place where J.K. Rowling is said to have worked on the early Harry Potter books, and while it was crowded, it was still fun to sit for a bit and take in the scene.
With some time to spare, I wandered through Grassmarket and up Victoria Street one more time, noticing the little details—old plaques, painted pub signs, faded lettering on stone.
As the day wound down, I tried to get a table at The Witchery, a gothic-looking, highly rated restaurant near the castle. It was fully booked, but worth seeing even from the outside.
I walked pretty much everywhere in Edinburgh—it’s a compact city, and half the fun was seeing what I stumbled across along the way. That said, you could just as easily get around by bus, cab, or tram if walking isn’t your thing.
The next morning I set out on the second part of my Scotland adventure—hiking the Rob Roy Way.
You won’t go hungry in Edinburgh—there’s everything from traditional pub fare to Thai, Indian, Middle Eastern, and vegetarian options. I tried my first Indian meal here on my last night and loved it. The pubs were always welcoming, and there’s no shortage of cafés for a quick coffee or pastry.
Most mornings I’d stop at a little café for a simple breakfast—usually eggs and vegetarian haggis. It’s funny, considering what traditional haggis is made of, that there’s even a vegetarian version, but I came to really enjoy it.
After nine days hiking the Rob Roy Way, I returned to Edinburgh for one more day. By then I’d seen most of the city’s highlights, so instead of retracing my steps I hopped on the train to Glasgow for the afternoon. It’s less than an hour away, and while five hours isn’t enough to really see the city, it gave me a quick taste.
What I loved most about Edinburgh was how walkable it is. In just four days—split between two visits—I felt like I got to know the city in a way you only can on foot. From history and architecture to inviting pubs and hidden closes, there’s always something to catch your eye. I’d go back in a heartbeat.
Here’s a quick look at how I spent my four days in Edinburgh, plus a bonus day in Glasgow.
If you enjoyed this, you might also like:
• Hiking the Rob Roy Way: An 8-Day Self-Guided Adventure in Scotland with Hillwalk Tours
📌 4 Days in Edinburgh (Plus a Bonus Day)
Day 1 – Arrival & Holyrood Park
Walk through The Meadows, hike Arthur’s Seat, Royal Mile, Victoria Street, Grassmarket, Old Calton Burial Ground, dinner at Thai Lemongrass
Day 2 – Castles & Wandering
Calton Hill, Old Calton Burial Ground, Levant Sweets, lunch at Victor Hugo Deli, Craigmillar Castle, St. Giles’ Cathedral, Grassmarket, Cameo Picturehouse
Day 3 – With a Guide
Royal Mile, Writers’ Museum, New Town stroll, Royal Pub stained glass, lunch near Greyfriars Bobby, Greyfriars Kirkyard, whisky tasting, Calton Hill sunset, dinner at Vinyasa + Levant Sweets
Day 4 – Dean Village & Farewell
Dean Village, Water of Leith, St. Bernard’s Well, Botanic Garden, cider at Deacon Brodie’s, coffee at The Elephant House, Grassmarket & Victoria Street
Bonus Day – Quick Trip to Glasgow
Train from Edinburgh, George Square, Buchanan Street, Glasgow Cathedral
Hi, I’m JoAnne—writer, wanderer, and lover of places that surprise me. I’ve traveled to 60+ countries (and counting), usually with a camera in one hand and a notebook in the other. I’m drawn to mosaics, markets, and mountains, and I write to remember what moved me. When I’m not traveling, I’m working on my blog Travels Afoot, trying new creative projects, or planning my next adventure.
