Essaouira was one of the stops on my trip around Morocco—and it turned out to be one of the most memorable. This laid-back coastal town on the Atlantic has a totally different vibe from the inland cities. With its UNESCO-listed medina, sea breeze, and mix of Moroccan and European influences, it was the kind of place that makes you want to slow down a little.
Essaouira, located on Morocco’s Atlantic coast between Casablanca and Agadir, is known for its UNESCO World Heritage-listed medina. The historic district blends Moroccan and European architecture—whitewashed buildings made from local stone, bright blue shutters and doors, and wide streets that feel calm compared to larger cities.
The fortifications surrounding the medina were built in the 18th century under Sultan Mohammed III to protect the city from maritime threats. Today, they offer scenic views of the ocean and are a popular spot for visitors who love both the history and the view.
Essaouira’s harbor is lined with traditional wooden fishing boats, all painted in a distinct shade of blue. These boats are still in use today, and early in the morning you’ll see fishermen heading out or bringing back the day’s catch—fresh and straight from the sea.
Watching the fishermen unload their catch, fix their nets, and get ready to head out again gives you a real sense of daily life in the city. Fishing isn’t just a job here—it’s part of the rhythm of Essaouira.
The ancient ramparts of Essaouira double as diving platforms for local kids, who leap into the sea below—even with signs warning against it and police trying to stop them. But as soon as the officer’s back is turned, they’re right back at it. It’s hard not to watch.
The fish market seemed to be the cats’ favorite hangout. With all the smells and scraps, it was basically a buffet. I saw one cat lounging near a stall with shrimp tails stuck to its back—looking content and completely oblivious.
You’ll spot them perched on windowsills, tucked into shady corners, and sometimes smack in the middle of a shop’s entrance, completely unbothered as customers step around them. No one shoos them away. If anything, people make space—sometimes even leaving out a water bowl like it’s part of the routine.
All the cats I saw looked healthy and well-fed. Essaouira has even started a local vaccination and sterilization program. If you look closely, you’ll notice a small notch in the ear of some cats—a sign they’ve been treated and are being cared for as part of the community.
I entered the medina through Bab Sbaa, one of the main gates along the beachfront. As soon as I passed through, there was a clear shift in energy. The quiet of the coast gave way to the smells of fresh bread and spices, and the steady movement of people heading in all directions.
The medina is the old, walled part of the city, characterized by its narrow streets and historic architecture. Within the medina lies the souk—a bustling marketplace where vendors sell a variety of goods, from spices and textiles to pottery and jewelry.
The streets were lined with food stalls selling warm khobz (round Moroccan bread), msemen and harcha (two types of flatbread), fried pastries, and cones of roasted nuts. Small cafés served coffee and mint tea, and I passed carts stacked with fresh mint or frying up little donuts.
Outside one shop, a woman was seated on a chair, grinding argan nuts by hand using a traditional stone mill. It was quiet, steady work, and people often paused to watch or ask questions.
Argan is a big part of life in Morocco—it’s used for cooking, skincare, and hair care, and making it by hand is still common in cooperatives and small shops like this one. The process takes time, but it’s what gives the oil its reputation for being so rich and high quality.
Farther in is the fish market—a particularly fun place to wander. The variety was impressive: sardines, eels, octopus, shrimp, and fish I couldn’t name were all laid out on ice or in metal trays. The air smelled like the sea, and shoppers moved from stall to stall, making quick decisions. Some of the vendors were especially friendly—smiling, chatting, and occasionally posing with part of their catch. One man proudly held up a long eel for a photo, clearly enjoying the moment as much as the people watching.
Then there were the spice shops—cones of turmeric, paprika, cumin, and ras el hanout stacked into perfect pyramids. Each one had its own scent. Some also sold dried herbs, rosebuds, soaps, and teas, all arranged in woven baskets and glass jars.
Vendors throughout the medina were selling everything from olives and dried fruit to blocks of nougat. Others had tables full of woven baskets, mosaic-tiled trays, leather bags, pottery, and embroidered textiles. A few small art galleries were tucked in between—some with bold, colorful paintings, others with wood carvings or more abstract pieces that made me stop and look.
After exploring the fish market, we ate at a little outdoor place around the corner called Chez Brixi. Fish was clearly their thing, but since I’m the vegetarian in the group, I ordered a vegetable tagine. It came out in a traditional clay pot, still bubbling. I asked for some harissa to go with it—a spicy North African chili paste made from red peppers, garlic, olive oil, and spices like cumin and coriander. It added just the right amount of heat.
We stopped at a place called Cooperative Thuya, a small shop and workshop just off one of the medina’s side streets. Their specialty is inlaid woodwork—mostly thuya wood with tiny pieces of metal or shell carefully tapped into detailed patterns. The designs were beautiful.
One of the artisans was working while we were there, using a small hammer and chisel to shape the design. It was quiet, focused work, and interesting to watch up close. They had boxes, trays, and larger pieces on display, all with that same level of intricate detail.
The food scene in Essaouira blends African, Arab, and Mediterranean influences, with everything from casual spots to more formal restaurants. On my first night, I had dinner on the rooftop of Restaurant Des Reves Essaouira, right in the heart of the medina. I had vegetable tagine (once again)—zucchini, carrots, and tomatoes, all well-spiced and full of flavor. The rooftop had great views over the city, and a local band was playing traditional Berber music in the background. It was a really nice evening.
While in Essaouira, I went to a small, semi-private hammam with two of the women I was traveling with. There was one kessala—the woman who guided us through the process. She didn’t speak much English, but her calm, confident manner made it easy to follow along.
We began in a simple lounge area before moving into the steam room. The floor was tiled, and we lay on smooth marble benches, letting the warmth seep into our muscles. The lighting was dim, not pitch black, but subdued enough to create a tranquil atmosphere. The air was filled with the subtle, earthy aroma of black soap, known as savon beldi, made from olive oil and often infused with eucalyptus or orange blossom.
After sitting quietly for a bit while the heat did its job, the kessala applied the black soap and used a kessa glove to scrub our skin, removing dead cells and impurities. Following the exfoliation, we lay back on the warm marble benches, allowing the heat and soap to penetrate our skin. She then rinsed us off thoroughly and proceeded to wash our hair, working the soap into our scalps and rinsing it out completely.
Afterward, we rested again in the lounge before getting dressed and heading out. It wasn’t overly luxurious or fussy, but it felt real and intentional—like something done for wellness, not pampering. Very different from the private hammam I had in Casablanca (you can read about that here), but I was glad I got to try both types.
It definitely makes you learn to be comfortable in your own skin.
While wandering through Essaouira, I stumbled upon a couple of very cute spots that quickly became favorites.
Kesh Cup Coffee Shop is a small, laid-back spot tucked into the medina. They serve great espresso drinks with lots of flavor options, and the atmosphere is warm and welcoming. The barista was friendly, and I grabbed one of the green stools in the photo above, sipping my coffee and people-watching for a while.
The next morning, I went to the Mandala Society, a place known for its great breakfast. I got there right when they opened and was surprised how quickly it filled up. I ordered avocado toast with roasted potatoes, a fresh orange juice, and a coffee—and it was all fantastic (yes, I went for the avocado toast—how surprising for me). The menu had tons of choices for vegetarians and vegans, and everything was fresh, flavorful, and clearly made with care. They focus on organic, locally sourced ingredients, and the whole place had a really relaxed, welcoming vibe. Definitely a spot worth checking out if you’re in Essaouira. If I’d had another day, I would’ve gone back—the lunch menu looked amazing too, with things like falafel wraps, grain bowls, veggie burgers, and fresh juices.
Essaouira’s beaches are also a paradise for the more adventurous, popular for windsurfing and kitesurfing, thanks to the steady wind that sweeps across the coast. This wind has earned Essaouira the nickname ‘the Wind City of Africa.’ I didn’t try them myself, but watching the kites whip through the air made it tempting.
For something a bit different, we went horseback riding on the beach one morning. We booked through a company called Zouina Cheval. The horses were beautiful and clearly well cared for. It was my first time riding along the beach, and I loved taking in the sea air from the saddle. They also offer camel rides—but I’d already ridden a camel to Merzouga Luxury Desert Camp a few days earlier, right into the heart of the Erg Chebbi dunes. I don’t think anything could top that experience.
From kids diving off the fort walls to peaceful walks along the ramparts and great vegetarian meals by the water, Essaouira has a mix of moments that make it easy to love. Whether you’re wandering the medina, watching the cats stake out the fish market, or just enjoying the slower pace, there’s something about this place that sticks with you—it definitely did for me.
Thank you for joining me on this Moroccan journey.
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