I am truly fascinated by Frida Kahlo. Her artistic brilliance and unwavering resilience are inspiring, and I’ve always been drawn to her choice of vivid colors and distinctive painting style.
Frida’s art and life embodied empowerment and authenticity. Overcoming physical pain, emotional challenges, and societal norms, she challenged conventional ideas of beauty and gender roles. Her unapologetic celebration of Mexican heritage inspires cultural pride, especially among marginalized communities, and she continues to stand as a feminist icon.
If you’ve read my previous blogs, then you’ll recall that I’ve traveled with a company called Atlas Obscura a few times. Well, once again, while browsing their website, a trip caught my eye: “Mexico City to Oaxaca: Tracing the Threads of Frida Kahlo’s Dress.” It sounded like a perfect fit for me, and luckily, I managed to grab the last available spot just a few weeks before the trip began. Over nine days, I would visit three main areas in Mexico— Mexico City, Tehuantepec (tehuan-te-pec), and Oaxaca (wah-hah-kah) City.
I landed in Mexico City, the capital and hometown of Frida Kahlo. After clearing passport control without any issues, I grabbed my suitcase and looked around for someone holding a sign with my name on it—I love having a familiar face waiting for me after a long day of travel. After a short search, I found my driver. He took my bag, led me to his van, and like that, we were heading to Hotel Casa Gonzalez, where I’d be staying for the next two nights.
The hotel was on a quiet street across the street from the British Embassy and just a few blocks from the well-known Paseo de la Reforma.
Hotel Casa Gonzalez is surrounded by plenty of restaurants and coffee shops, all within walking distance. And if you’re craving a churro, it’s only a five-minute walk from the hotel to the very popular Churreria El Moro (let me say, the churros here are fantastic, and dipping them in chocolate takes them to a whole new level—WOW). The hotel’s central location was perfect for exploring the city.
The rooms were comfy and had a unique, slightly quirky style. One of the highlights while staying here was that they served breakfast in a bright room with a beautiful stained-glass window. The breakfast, which included coffee, juice, fruit, and a main course, was terrific. My yogurt was served daily in a beautiful glass, layered with granola, and drizzled with honey.
The day began with a visit to The Blue House, where Frida Kahlo spent her childhood and is now a museum in the Colonia del Carmen area of the Coyoacán borough of Mexico City (roughly a 40-minute drive from the hotel). This is a popular tourist destination, so purchasing your ticket in advance is a good idea.
As I entered the house, I felt like I was stepping into the past—and a glimpse into Frida’s life. The space was filled with her personal belongings—her art, family photos, letters, and distinctive clothing, weaving together the rich tapestry of her life.
It was unsettling to see Frida’s wheelchair positioned in front of her easel, holding one of her paintings— her art supplies arranged nearby. It was like she had suddenly left her studio and never returned.
Afterward, we walked through the streets of Coyoacán. Hungry by this time, we headed to one of the district’s street stalls, the very busy and clearly popular Mercado de Antojitos, and ordered some empanadas to share. The stalls were lined with narrow tables and benches for patrons to eat, most of whom appeared to be locals.
Unfortunately, all the seating in Mercado de Antojitos was taken. So, we grabbed our food and headed to Cantina La Coyacana, a few doors away. This place was a traditional Mexican cantina with a relaxed vibe and friendly staff. We grabbed a few tables in the bar area and ordered a couple of rounds of Victoria Beer (a local favorite) and shots of Mezcal, a renowned Mexican spirit.
Though I didn’t order any food at La Coyacana (we had our Empanadas with us), I did look at the menu, which offered a variety of traditional Mexican food (vegetarian included). The food served to the tables around us looked fabulous. Cantina La Coyacana is worth putting on your list if you’re in the area. But be sure to bring a hearty appetite—the portions appeared quite generous.
As it turned out, the beer and empanadas were a perfect pairing! And by the way, the empanadas from Mercado de Antojitos were delicious.
We walked through the Jardín Centenario in Centro de Coyoacán, which was once the courtyard of the San Juan Bautista church and monastery. Today, the park’s main attraction is the fountain at its center—a sculpture of coyotes by artist Gabriel Ponzanelli. The fountain has become a symbolic representation of the community.
Next, we headed to Xochimilco, about 17 miles south of Mexico City. Xochimilco is known for its floating gardens called “chinampas” (pronounced chi-n-am-pas), which the ancient Aztecs originally cultivated.
Though not technically floating, the gardens take shape through interweaving tree roots from the natural surroundings, giving them an almost ethereal appearance.
As we made our way towards the canal, rows and rows of trajineras (tra-jin-er-a) Mexican boats lined the pathway—each one displaying a unique name, brightly painted and adorned with vibrant decorations—creating a festive atmosphere and embodying the spirit of Mexico. And from what I saw, both locals and tourists enjoyed riding through the floating gardens.
We boarded a colorful boat with the name Mi Bebito Fiufiu (My Baby Fiu Fiu) painted on its front. These Mexican boats were a fusion of the Venetian gondolas and Thai floating markets. A rower stands at the boat’s rear, skillfully steering with a long pole.
On the boat was a long wooden table and ladder-back chairs, also brightly painted. The table was set with lovely Mexican stoneware — a subtle floral motif painted along the borders of the plates and bowls. Also atop the table were two large bowls of freshly made guacamole, a few baskets of chips, salad, tortillas, Mexican cheese, and salsa.
Music suddenly filled the air as our rower moved our boat through the canal. Why? Because aboard several boats floating nearby were lively mariachi bands — “serenading” us with some good old Mexican folk music. The music only added to the atmosphere of celebration and joy.
Amidst the music, floating bars appeared, offering a variety of beverages, including Mezcal. Since we were in Mexico, we bought a couple of bottles—we were here to celebrate, after all.
The Mezcal and our chips and guacamole were a match made in heaven. The simplicity of the tortilla chips, sprinkled with a hint of salt, perfectly complemented the delicious guacamole.
At one point, while dipping my chip into one of the bowls of guacamole, I noticed something unusual in the bowl but also on my chip – crickets (or chapulines as they are called in Mexico)! As I looked closer into the bowl, I realized there were quite a lot of these toasted little insects in the guacamole. I had forgotten that Mexicans often included crickets in their guacamole (as well as lots of other foods).
Curious about this, I decided to give a cricket or two a try. Surprisingly, the crickets tasted okay. They were crunchy and somewhat flavorless. Combining the creamy guacamole with the crispy texture of the crickets added a unique flavor that celebrated Mexican cuisine. I decided on the spot that crickets are a vegetable.
We enjoyed the afternoon and early evening on the boat, traveling around the water for almost 3 hours. I’ll have to say, exploring the Xochimilco canals on a trajinera was a fun experience!
The day began with a trip to the Museum of Modern Art to see the “The Two Fridas” painting—the main attraction. Surprisingly, the image was much larger than I had imagined. If you are unfamiliar with the painting, it shows “The Two Fridas” sitting side by side, holding hands. One Frida is dressed in a white European gown, while the other wears a traditional Tehuana skirt and blouse. This painting has always been a personal favorite of mine. Even though there were a few other exhibits, my focus at the museum was on “Two Fridas.”
Afterward, we crossed Reforma Avenue and headed to the National Museum of Anthropology. But, before heading to the museum’s exhibits, we enjoyed a wonderful lunch at Sala Gastronómica Restaurant. Each dish at our table looked incredible, and the menu had items from different regions across Mexico.
To start, I had crispy chips with guacamole (without crickets this time) and plantains stuffed with cheese, served with rice and mole sauce (I adore plantains).
While the menu had several vegetarian options, it leaned towards meat-centric choices. I chose the Citrus and Spinach salad with grapefruit, orange, pineapple, caramelized pumpkin seeds, goat cheese, and soy vinaigrette for my main course.
When I first heard we’d be eating at the restaurant in the museum, I wasn’t thrilled—I figured it wouldn’t be anything special. But I was so wrong. Sala Gastronómica Restaurant truly impressed me with its numerous offerings, and I wholeheartedly endorse it. They also serve breakfast, and just glancing at the menu left me eagerly anticipating my next visit.
After a delicious lunch, we explored ethnography and pre-Hispanic history. Our English-speaking guide led us through the museum, sharing insights into Mexico’s diverse ethnic groups.
The museum’s vast collection was impressive. Even after three hours, we barely scratched the surface. The National Museum of Anthropology is a must-visit in Mexico City for its Aztec art and historical artifacts.
Be prepared for sensory overload. The museum’s size and variety of exhibits might catch you off guard—but in a good way. Fuel up, wear comfortable shoes, and don’t miss the stunning pavilion at the courtyard’s end.
We were supposed to head to Isthmsus of Tehuantepe, but unfortunately, the flight was canceled, so we ended up with another day in Mexico City (not that it was a bad thing; I just felt as though there was not a well-prepared backup plan).
So, on our actual last day in Mexico City, we began the day with a visit to Tlatelolco, where we explored the ruins of an ancient city-state with the same name (before the Columbian era). This place had once been a bustling marketplace, which the Aztecs conquered in 1473. According to what I’ve read, the Spanish invasion erased many of its treasures.
The Santiago Church sits among the ruins, symbolizing colonial change. Built from the stones of indigenous temples, it represents resistance against the Spanish. The area is said to hold the memories of about 40,000 Aztecs who died in the battle against the Spanish.
Nearby, a modern plaza honors the students who protested in 1968, blending past and present.
The Isthmus of Tehuantepec isn’t flashy, but if you’re into history, it’s worth a stop. It’s less crowded than other places in Mexico City, though the traffic getting there was a nightmare.
Afterward, we explored Ciudadela Market. It’s a must for an authentic taste of Mexico, with traditional handicrafts and regional specialties like Oaxaca textiles, Chiapas ceramics, and Guerrero silver.
The narrow alleys are full of color and activity, with vendors from all over Mexico. You’ll find dolls, papier-mâché figures, sombrero hats, and tile mirrors. Some vendors even sell paper machete skeletons for the Day of the Dead.
Lunch was at Restaurante El Cardenal and wow—another excellent meal. I’m honestly not much of a fan of Mexican food in the States, but everything I’ve had so far in Mexico has been incredible. Granted, I’ve had a lot of chips and guacamole, but even they are different here. Everything is just so fresh and flavorful. I had a quesadilla with a generous heaping of guacamole – and honestly — it was terrific! As was the presentation. I washed my meal down with a spectacular margarita (hold the salt).
After lunch, we visited The Azulejo Mansion, also known as the House of Tiles, another example of Mexican art and history. The exterior is decorated with beautiful blue, white, and yellow tiles. Inside, there’s a mural by the famous Mexican painter José Clemente Orozco. The glass-ceilinged atrium holds stone pillars, murals, and a fountain. It was all impressive.
Then, a quick stop at Insurgentes Theater to see the beautiful mosaic done by Diego Rivera. Diego Rivera’s design shows the rich history of the arts and the narrative of the Mexican people. It was an impressive sight and worth a view—even a quick one like ours. The mural is located at San José Insurgentes, Benito Juárez in Mexico City.
Nearby was the Palacio Post Office, an example of centuries-old architecture in Mexico City’s historic central district.It exudes charm with its intricate design and timeless elegance.
Before returning to the hotel, we walked through Mexico City’s Chinatown. The area consists of just two short blocks featuring a handful of Chinese restaurants and stores. It’s a pedestrian-friendly space, with traffic restricted to create a comfortable walkway down the middle of the street. I loved all the Chinese lanterns hanging above the walkway— making it even more festive-looking. It was one of the smallest Chinatowns I’ve ever visited.
On our way back to the hotel, we passed Parque México—a lovely urban space with well-designed pathways and tropical greenery. The neighborhood feels safe and well-maintained, providing a peaceful escape from the city hustle.
We set out for the next part of our adventure – Tehuantepec. It was roughly a 3-hour flight from Mexico City to Ixtepeck —followed by a 30-minute drive to Tehuantepec. I enjoyed leaving the city and seeing the mountains and smaller towns.
Tehuantepec held a unique significance— the birthplace of Matilde, Frida Kahlo’s mother.
Historically, Tehuantepec women have held a prominent role in the region’s local markets and economic activities. They frequently out-earn their husbands, which is quite unconventional. This unique celebration of matriarchal arrangement has garnered global attention in other parts of the world.
In this area, festivities known as Velas are popular. Women wear extravagant clothing during these festivals, taking to the streets in procession. The huipiles (blouses) worn are known for their colorful palettes and beautiful motifs. Frida Kahlo was intrigued by this clothing and often depicted herself in the Istmeña style in her artwork.
Our first stop was the Riddiba Escuela Textil de Ixtaltepec, a small school where ancient textile techniques (traditional chain stitching using a particular sewing machine) found new life.
Heading this initiative is Victoria Guzmán Cabrera, a passionate advocate for preserving textile heritage. In this creative space, tradition blends with innovation. During our visit, we met three students who shared how much the school means to them.
Then, it was off to Juchitán de Zaragoza, where Lola Cabrera lives (she owns a well-known traditional dress shop in the area). There, we enjoyed a traditional lunch on her patio. We had the chance to try the renowned “estofado” mole on freshly made tamales. The food wasn’t just delicious— it captured the essence of Tehuantepec and its authentic flavors.
After our meal, Lola kindly brought us to her store, “Los Huipiles De Lola,” a haven for Istmeña clothing—the dresses, brimming with life and charm, truly captured tradition.
Accompanied by Lola, we made our way to the lively “Mercado 5 De Septiembre,” a significant spot in Juchitá named after a historical event. The market offered everything from fresh produce to Oaxacan dishes, handmade crafts, and clothing.
Because we had lost a day, we had to cram a lot in. We said goodbye to Lola and headed to our hotel for the night, the Hotel Calli.
After settling into my room and managing a quick toothbrushing and face wash, I returned to the van, heading to Santo Domingo. The plan? To catch a fashion show showcasing traditional clothing, followed by a buffet-style dinner and the Zandugua dance performance. The costumes were stunning, with their intricate embroidery and vivid colors.
Dinner, unfortunately, didn’t hit the mark for me. I took a few bites but soon put my fork down. While many might enjoy this experience, it felt more geared towards tourists than offering an authentic vibe. Considering my genuine experiences earlier in the day, this stop seemed unnecessary.
It was a long day, but a very comfortable bed awaited me at the Hotel Calli.
We left Tehuantepec midmorning and took a scenic route through Oaxaca’s central Valley to Oaxaca City. The trip was longer than expected due to a highway closure in Tehuantepec from ongoing protests related to inadequate post-earthquake recovery support since 2017. Protests are common in the area.
This detour took us off the highway and onto a twisting, uneven dirt road through the Valley. Along the way, we encountered groups of men who demanded money before letting us pass. It was a strange dynamic—as if they claimed ownership of the road.
We paid each time and continued on our way. We were stopped three or four times during the drive. They didn’t ask for large amounts, but they wouldn’t let us pass without payment. It was unusual, but I never felt panicked.
After about 45 minutes, we returned to the paved highway, and the road to Oaxaca City stretched before us.
Our route took us through expansive fields filled with Agave plants, which are the main element for making Tequila. The Oaxaca Valley is a renowned area for Mezcal production.
Note: Tequila is a specific type of Mezcal, limited to certain regions and made from the blue agave (Agave tequilana Weber).
Throughout the drive, we passed numerous checkpoints operated by armed authorities, screening vehicles for potential human trafficking.
The journey towards Oaxaca City was an ever-changing scene– fields of corn, lush mango groves, valleys filled with pineapple trees, and occasional clusters of cacti.
The Sierra Madre Mountain range, a defining feature of Oaxaca’s scenery, stayed with us, reminding me (unfortunately) that I hadn’t set aside extra days to explore and hike in this beautiful area.
Upon arriving in Oaxaca City and checking in at the hotel Holiday Inn Express, my fellow travelers and I were treated to a fantastic rooftop dinner at a nearby restaurant, Casa Crespo.
This place was incredible. Eating at Casa Crespo felt like Chef Oscar Carrizosa had warmly welcomed us into his home. With a personal touch, Chef Carrizosa tailors his menus to suit guests’ preferences and crafts daily dishes that highlight the finest seasonal ingredients.
The meal began with a shot of Mezcal, of course. Then, it was officially time for the feast!
The presentation, the tastes – everything was terrific. Our meal started with Memelitas —mini tortillas topped with cheese and mole sauce, which were delicious and accompanied by a delightful margarita.
Later, we enjoyed some tamales that surpassed the ones we had during lunch. This was followed by some beautifully adorned tortillas—almost resembling stenciled artwork. These unique tortillas, known as ceremonial tortillas, added a nice touch to the overall meal.
It was an excellent meal. And guess what we got for dessert? Homemade Oaxacan chocolate ice cream! And what better way to end our meal than with a sip of Mezcal? The weather was perfect for rooftop dining. I love this place and highly recommend it if you visit Oaxaca City. Plus, it was within walking distance of our hotel.
Casa Crespo also offers cooking classes here—every day of the week. These sessions go beyond standard cooking lessons; they also get into the history of Oaxacan cuisine—from its modern character to its ancient pre-Hispanic roots.
The group cooking class was priced at $70. Chef Carrizosa also offers private classes, which I wish I had known about earlier—I would have booked one—a reminder that even during organized group travel, it’s important to research a destination in advance and take the initiative to explore additional options.
We traveled along the Oaxaca craft route, starting in Ocotlán and winding through the Southern Valley.
Our first stop was to Rodolfo Morales Gallery Arte de Oaaxaca. Rodolfo Morales was a local Mexican artist who made a name for himself before returning to his hometown of Oaxaca, where he continued to paint.
Morales is well known for his surrealist paintings depicting Mexican culture. He is one of the most renowned indigenous artists of Mexico and is thought by many to be one of the most influential artists of the Oaxacan contemporary art movement.
We then walked across the street to Mercado Morelos, a sprawling traditional market. The market, known for its vibrant atmosphere, offers abundant fresh produce, vegetables, and pantry staples. Several vendors proudly displayed large baskets filled to the brim with roasted crickets for sale (they are a good protein source, after all).
While at the market, we visited La Cocina de Frida, a charming and colorful eatery run by Beatriz Vázquez Gómez, who resembles Frida Kahlo. On our guide’s suggestion, we tried the chocolate de agua, a traditional Mexican hot chocolate, which we enjoyed at one of the tables near her stall.
Mexican hot chocolate differs from American hot chocolate because it blends ground, unsweetened cacao nibs with water, sugar, and a touch of cinnamon, creating a rich, slightly textured drink.
The ancient technique involves using a wooden utensil called a “molinillo.” This tool works similarly to a whisk. Oh, and by the way, my cup of hot chocolate was delicious.
Later, we visited the studio of Josefina Aguilar, a well-known Mexican folk artist from Ocotlán de Morelos, Oaxaca. As a member of the Aguilar family, she gained recognition for her distinctive clay figurines known as “muñecas” or dolls.
Josefina shapes figurines from local red clay that depict everyday village life, cultural customs, religious occasions, notable individuals, and striking Day of the Dead sculptures.
I was drawn to her creations and bought one to bring home. I wanted to buy more, but I worried about them breaking during travel (which turned out to be a valid concern, as a small piece broke off from the one I bought). If possible, having your purchases shipped might be a safer option.
Continuing on the Oaxaca craft route, we stopped at San Antonino Castilo Velasco, where we met skilled women embroiderers. These artisans create the detailed floral motifs on blouses, which gained notable popularity in the 1960s. The traditional blouses are crafted using four main techniques: open thread work, flat embroidery, crochet, and decorative smocking. The blouses were stunning.
Starved by this point, we stopped for lunch at La Azucena. And again, lunch was delicious —I had a vegetable burrito with guacamole.
We visited Santo Tomas Jalieza, about 15 miles from Oaxaca City, and observed artisans using backstrap looms. Afterward, we explored their workshop, appreciating the range of items they crafted, from belts and handbags to change purses, table runners, and placemats.
The opportunity to watch this ancient method was fascinating. I still can’t fathom how the projects the weavers were working on didn’t get all tangled up. The establishment operates as a cooperative with fixed prices. So, forget bargaining—it doesn’t happen here.
We also made a quick stop at Galeria De Barro Negro Miguel Fabian (yes, a very long name). The multi-generational artisanal studio (and shop) is dedicated to crafting Oaxaca’s black pottery.
And then, it was time to return to our hotel in the heart of Oaxaca City for some free time.
After breakfast, we headed to the mountains to explore the Ancient Site of Monte Alban. The views were breathtaking, and the well-preserved ruins told a remarkable story. This place served as the first urban hub in Mesoamerica and held significant influence for over 1300 years.
The Zapotec civilization, the original inhabitants, had a deep understanding of astronomy—evident in their architectural designs. Walking through the site, you could sense their achievements. If you plan a visit, having a guide adds depth to the experience. However, the signage around the ruins is in both Spanish and English for those who prefer to explore independently.
Before leaving, we treated ourselves to refreshing, freshly squeezed juices, along with some crispy chips and guacamole, at an open-air café.
Despite the heat on the day of my visit, it was well worth it. If you are in Oaxaca, you should take advantage of this destination. But my advice is to start your visit in the morning, wear a hat, bring a bottle of water, and do yourself a big favor and wear comfortable shoes. You will be doing quite a bit of walking. And don’t forget to make a pit stop at the café – it’s a treat you won’t want to pass up.
Then we dropped by the workshop of Armando Jimenez (a little non-descript place), a respected Zapotec wood carver from Oaxaca, Mexico. Armando learned woodcarving from his grandfather, Manuel Jimenez (a well-known and respected Oaxacan woodcarver).
Armando is from Arrazola, Oaxaca, a town known for its traditional wood carvings. The primary wood used for these pieces is Copal, sourced from the Oaxaca region. His distinctive style is marked by vibrant and playful use of colors.
In his workshop, you can find a variety of carved creations—primarily animals like mice, cats, dogs, and even a porcupine. His pieces are very impressive. He, along with his wife and children, continues the family tradition.
Back in Oaxaca City Center, we made a quick pit stop at the “Tin Man’s” shop, Artesanias de Hojalata & Enmarcado de Obras de Arte (yes, that’s a mouthful), located at the corner of Calle de La Reforma and Calle de Mariano Abasolo.
We had to knock on a window of the Tin Man’s shop to get the attention of someone inside. Finally, someone came to unlock the door, inviting us inside.
The locked door wasn’t just for show. The workshop was in an old adobe house that had seen better days. Big wooden logs supported some walls.
Tirso Cuevas, aka the Tin Man, was busy working on a new creation—with tools scattered about. His many tin creations— frames, mirrors, and even treasure boxes- were displayed on the walls of his workshop. The level of craftsmanship was impressive. After picking out a few items, we thanked Tirso and said our goodbyes.
We reached the hotel in the late afternoon, which gave me a few hours to explore Oaxaca solo before rejoining my fellow travelers later for a farewell dinner.
Jalatlaco, one of the long-standing neighborhoods in Oaxaca, is one of the nicest areas around. The mix of artistic street scenes, cobblestone streets, and colorful houses gave it a distinct charm. I passed many eateries and coffee shops that left me genuinely wishing for more time to explore and enjoy.
Unfortunately, I had barely arrived at Barrio de Jalatlaco before I had to leave due to an approaching storm.
I almost skipped our farewell dinner due to an early flight the following day. But I decided to join the group, even if only briefly. Our dinner spot was the stunning Cathedral Restaurant. And the food was nothing short of fantastic. Our guide, Stephanie, nailed the choice for our trip’s conclusion.
After enjoying my salad and sharing a toast, it was time to say goodbye to my newfound friends. It’s odd how these things work out—starting as strangers and leaving as friends. I really had a great time with this beautiful group of ladies.
From Mexico City to Tehuantepec to Oaxaca City— my trip was this incredible blend of urban exploration, cultural immersion, and artistic indulgence across these three places.
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