I recently went on a yoga retreat in Colombia, beginning in the beautiful city of Cartagena. Anticipating the scheduled start, I arrived a few days early to explore on my own.
Touching down at Cartagena Airport was hassle-free. There were no lines and no immigration issues; it was a seamless transition that set the tone for the trip. As I left baggage claim, my ride was waiting —making the airport shuffle stress-free as well.
My destination? The GHL Collection Armeria Hotel. Situated near the heart of Getsemani, an area filled with life and color, it provided the perfect location for exploring on foot.
The hotel was lovely, with a rooftop bar and pool offering sweeping city views. My room was comfy, the staff was friendly, and the breakfasts were delicious and plentiful. My only complaint was having a room on the third floor, which was basically next to the rooftop bar—it was often loud during the evening hours.
Getsemani, situated right beyond the Old City walls, offers a distinct charm that might not match the glitz of other areas but has its own unique bohemian-like magic. Walk its streets, and you’ll find huge, colorful murals and brightly painted buildings—adding to the neighborhood’s lively spirit. Umbrellas, kites, and flags hang above many of the streets.
Everywhere you turn, you find street vendors and sidewalk bars, adding to the laid-back vibe.
Restaurants, bars, and coffee shops are numerous.
But what makes Getsemani so special is its sense of local pride. The community seems full of joy— making it a pleasure to visit. It’s not your typical tourist spot; here, you can genuinely sense the heartbeat of the neighborhood and its residents.
Getesmani had once been known for all its criminal activities—prostitution, violence, and drugs. But things have turned around. Gentrification transformed Getesmani into Cartagena’s trendiest area. Once frequented by drug dealers, the plazas have been reclaimed, and many rundown buildings are now boutique hotels or restaurants. I loved the neighborhood and felt perfectly safe wandering around solo.
One of the most photographed streets in Getsemani is Calle de los Sombrillo (The Umbrella Street). The umbrella-covered street and mural-adorned walls make it clear why. The umbrellas add color to the street and provide much-needed shade from the midday sun.
The statue of Pedro Romero stands outside the Church of the Holy Trinity, symbolizing the resilience of the present community.
A blacksmith by trade, Romero played a major role in sparking Colombia’s initial bid for independence from Spanish rule. Despite facing societal challenges as a person of color, he earned the respect of politicians and the white elite, breaking barriers as Cartagena’s first non-white military officer.
In November 1811, Romero led the “Lancers of Getsemaní” in applying pressure on Cartagena’s governing council during a crucial meeting, advocating for a vote in favor of absolute independence. His efforts made Cartagena the pioneering Colombian city, establishing a fully functioning, free, and independent state.
Coffee holds significant importance throughout Colombia, and in Getsemani, the coffee culture is thriving — with numerous cafes throughout the city.
If you are looking for a great cup of coffee, the eclectic but inviting Café del Mural is the place to go. The service is top-notch, and the atmosphere only adds to the overall experience—which is fantastic.
The staff at Café del Mural are genuinely passionate about the art of coffee-making. They also offer a Coffee Master class— which includes four to five tastings, snacks, and a 200-gram premium bag of coffee. The 2-hour class costs $75.00.
The class covers everything from distinguishing good and bad beans to preserving them and various grinding methods. However, the highlight is the coffee preparation, where endless possibilities exist. If you are a coffee lover, you must put this on your “must-do” list when visiting Cartagena.
Beiyu, a modest yet charming café, is also worth a visit. They pride themselves on organic fare, a sustainable approach, and great coffee. With a homey, artistic vibe, it’s a laid-back spot to savor a cup. My only regret was eating breakfast already, as their breakfast menu looked fantastic, with plenty of vegetarian options.
Getsemani’s street food is a real treat. Stroll along the streets and try the local favorites sold by vendors with food carts or homeowners setting up tables outside their homes.
I tried the popular Arepa con queso—a snack made from white corn flour mixed with water and salt. The mixture is shaped into balls, flattened into patties, and grilled on both sides. Post-grilling, the patties are sliced and, in my case, generously filled with Mexican Queso Fresco, then grilled a bit longer. Despite being considered a snack, its substantial size is quite filling.
While I opted for the cheesy version, these arepas can also be enjoyed plain or stuffed with meats. It is often eaten with a spicy green sauce, adding a nice kick.
And, if you don’t want to explore on your own, numerous food tours are available. I’ve done food tours in other places, and they’re a great way to try local delicacies while learning about the local history. Plus, I’ve found that food guides are often great resources for restaurant recommendations, especially those frequented by the locals. A food tour is a straightforward way to enjoy Getsemani’s food scene and discover the area’s unique flavors.
If you want to take a cooking class to master some local favorites, several nearby options exist.
I took a cooking class at a little gem of a place located in Getsimani called Oh! La La Bistro —owned by a French-Colombian couple. Their mission? To introduce lighter, healthier alternatives to a region accustomed to heartier and often fried cuisine.
In the class, we crafted ceviche, mine, with a vegetarian twist. The experience was fun, and the dish— was delicious. To top it off, we enjoyed a tequila mixed with reserved vegetable juice from our cutting endeavors.
My favorite thing in Getsemani was strolling through the streets without a specific plan—taking in all the vibrant buildings, lively people, and colorful murals. It all creates such a festive and inviting atmosphere. These murals are done by both local and international artists— often depicting culturally significant images. Many of the murals depict Caribbean life—interestingly, these murals were often painted on the stucco walls of crumbling Spanish colonial buildings.
While exploring the surrounding art scene, I came across a group of men sitting around a table in the street, engrossed in a game of Ludo (resembling ).
Head to Plaza de La Trinidad, a place always buzzing with activity. During my visit, I stumbled upon a traditional dance performance on the steps of the Church of the Holy Trinity. It’s common to find Palenqueras — local women strolling about in multi-colored tiered skirts, perfectly balancing fruit baskets on their heads (they will let you take their photo — but it will cost you a dollar or so). Numerous murals honoring these iconic women are painted on the sides of buildings.
There is so much going on in Plaza Trinidad — grabbing a spot to sit and just people-watching is fun.
7. Enjoy the party vibe evening time brings to Getsemani
At night, Getsemani transforms into a lively scene with locals setting up makeshift bars outside their homes. You can show your support by enjoying delicious food from their straightforward menus and sipping on their potent cocktails.
During my visit, I stopped at a sidewalk bar for a mojito (okay, maybe two). The street was lively with people— music blasting, and the atmosphere was filled with general commotion. Interestingly, right behind where I sat, an older man sat undisturbed in his house, watching TV as if the chaos outside didn’t exist. He was used to this kind of thing.
Although I wasn’t entirely alone in the evening, I felt comfortable and believe I would have been fine solo, at least up until 10 or 11 PM. Admittedly, as the night progresses, things can get a bit wild. If alone, I’d avoid the late-night hours on the street—a smart idea anywhere.
For solo travelers who are uncomfortable with evening strolls but are eager to experience Getsemani’s nightlife, consider joining an evening walking tour. A local guide will lead you to the best bars and clubs, offering a night of drinking games, treasure hunts, and dance lessons in salsa and merengue.
You will have no trouble getting a taxi in Getsemani if walking isn’t your thing or it’s late at night. Though I didn’t have to use public transportation, I understand Uber is also an option. But honestly, the best way to get around in the barrio is on foot. The streets are narrow, and some side roads are pedestrianized.
Another option for exploring the area would be by bike. I passed by one bike rental, Bike & Arts Alquiler, where even the rental bikes were works of art —with the bike’s baskets adorned with colorful flowers.
Rent a bike and explore independently, or join a bike tour for a better city feel. There were several different bike tours available. The Bike & Art Alquiler tour looked like a safe, informative, and fun way to discover Getsemani. The tour focused on the historical and cultural side of Cartegena. They offered other ride options as well. I would have enjoyed their graffiti bike tour.
Tekkie Tours offered another kind of bike tour — focusing on “the feel and taste” of Cartagena. And apparently, a highlight of the tour is eating at a favorite spot Anthony Bourdain frequented.
If time allows, you should visit Cartagena’s old city. It’s a beautiful example of well-preserved colonial architecture in the Americas. The area has churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces, and mansions.
And it might be a good idea to hire a guide or join a walking tour. Cartagena’s Walled City is filled with history —from its tales of piracy and wars to its enduring legacy of slavery. Every house and street holds stories —down to the intricacies of door handles that once symbolized social status. These daily tours begin from the Clock Tower or Plaza Santa Teresa.
And, if you’re into souvenirs (which I am not), check out Bovedas Market, a yellow building that was once a prison. Each cell is now a tiny shop offering everything from shot glasses to hammocks to emeralds. But the most exciting thing about the market was its history.
Seriously, this city has so much to see and do. I regret not spending a few days here post-yoga retreat. So, if you ever find yourself in Cartegena, don’t skip over this gem of a place. You’ll love it.
Read the next part of my trip —’Colombia: From Cartagena to Barichara to Bogotá’.
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