After spending six days on a yoga retreat in Epidaurus—a peaceful coastal town known for its ancient theater—I headed back to Athens for a final three days before flying home. I’d actually been to Athens once before, a few years earlier, but only for a quick, whirlwind day. So I’d had a sneak peek—ruins, great Greek food, the usual—but not nearly enough time to get a real feel for the city.
Athens is a lot of things—loud, hot (especially in the sun), a little chaotic, and completely full of life. Sidewalk cafés were packed at all hours, people drank iced coffee like water (I quickly became addicted to freddo cappuccinos), and it wasn’t always polished, but it was never boring.
It’s also filled with cool neighborhoods, each with its own vibe. Some feel old and romantic, others gritty and full of street art. One minute you’re passing crumbling neoclassical buildings, the next you’re in front of a sleek rooftop bar blasting music with a perfect view of the Parthenon. It’s that kind of city—layered, surprising, and hard to pin down.
I booked a hotel in Plaka, the oldest part of the city. It’s touristy, yes, but also incredibly walkable and full of charm. The area is filled with narrow streets, old houses with peeling shutters, and little cafés tucked into corners. They call it “the Neighborhood of the Gods,” and it makes sense. You’re right at the foot of the Acropolis, with ancient ruins and mythology woven into the everyday. One minute you’re buying a postcard, the next you’re standing next to a crumbling column older than most countries.
I stayed at the Hotel Metropolis, a small, family-run hotel (officially listed as 2-star) with a great rooftop view of the Acropolis. Breakfast was served up there every morning—simple stuff like bread, yogurt, cheese, and strong coffee—but the view made it feel like a luxury. The rooms weren’t fancy (a little worn around the edges), but I didn’t come to Athens to hang out in a hotel room. I was there to wander.
I couldn’t wait to start exploring. First stop: Anafiotika, a quiet, whitewashed neighborhood that felt more like a Greek island than the middle of Athens—only about a 10-minute walk from my hotel. Clay pots with geraniums, bright blue doors, vines spilling from balconies—there was something calm and peaceful about it. It didn’t feel like the rest of Athens at all.
It was built in the 1800s by workers from Anafi, one of the Cycladic islands, who came to Athens for construction jobs—which explains the island vibe. And just above it looms the Acropolis—ancient ruins towering over these quiet hillside homes.
From one spot, I could see both the Acropolis and, off in the distance, Lycabettus Hill—the highest point in central Athens. At the top of Lycabettus, there’s a small white chapel, a restaurant, and an open-air theater. You can hike up or take the funicular. It’s supposed to be one of the best spots to watch the sunset.
After wandering through Anafiotika, I made my way to Mnisikleous Street, a stretch of steps lined with restaurants and bars. It was buzzing with people and seemed to have a really good energy. Definitely a place to go—not just for a meal, but even just to grab a drink and take it all in.
As it started getting dark, I headed back toward my hotel and ended up at Heraclito Wine Bar. Total luck, and a great find. I hadn’t eaten yet, and they had a menu of small bites to go with a huge selection of mostly Greek wines—over 200, I think. The staff was friendly and really knew their stuff. It was the perfect low-key way to wind down after a full first day.
I booked a 3-hour street art walking tour through Viator. I met my guide near Monastiraki Square, just a short walk from my hotel. The square is always buzzing—filled with locals, tourists, and street musicians—and surrounded by landmarks like Hadrian’s Library, the Tzistarakis Mosque, and the Church of the Pantanassa.
Nearby streets are lined with restaurants, souvlaki spots, and shops spilling out into the Monastiraki Flea Market, where you can find everything from cheap souvenirs to secondhand records and random antiques. There’s a bit of open space in the square too—mostly stone, with some trees and benches. Between the ruins, the crowds, and the view of the Acropolis overhead, it’s the kind of place where you could just sit and people-watch.
My tour was a private one (they offer group options too, which are obviously cheaper). I don’t always go solo with a guide, but sometimes it’s worth it—especially if you want the flexibility to veer off a bit, linger in places that catch your eye, or ask a million questions without slowing anyone down.
Before we headed off, I asked how far the Central Market (Varvakios Agora) was. She said it was only about a five-minute walk and suggested we stop there first if I was interested (see what I mean about veering off the set itinerary?). I was.
The main part of the market is mostly meat—rows of hanging carcasses, animal heads, intestines—definitely not for the faint of heart. As a vegetarian, I didn’t last long. Honestly, I think even for meat eaters it would’ve been a lot.
Across the road, though, was a totally different scene. Fruit stalls, herbs, spices, and big trays of olives. I’ve never really been into olives, but I became a bit of an olive fiend on this trip. These were some of the best I tried. One of the vendors let me taste a few, and he vacuum-sealed my favorites so I could snack on them later.
From there, we set off to explore the city’s street art scene, winding through Psyrri, Metaxourgio, and Gazi—each with its own feel. Some streets were lively and welcoming, others quieter and more worn-down, with graffiti-covered walls and abandoned buildings giving them a rougher edge. Murals stretched across entire buildings—some shouting political messages, others just bursts of bold color and creativity.
I like taking street art tours because it often brings me to parts of the city I probably wouldn’t go to otherwise. It’s a different kind of sightseeing— it’s raw, honest, and shows a totally different side of the city than you’d normally imagine.
One mural that stood out showed a dog wearing a crown, eyes alert, in front of a fiery background. My guide told me it was Loukanikos, the legendary “riot dog” of Athens. During the anti-austerity protests, he stood on the front lines with demonstrators, unfazed by tear gas and chaos. He became a symbol of resistance—and now, a kind of folk hero, remembered on the walls of the city.
We took a break at Taf, a popular café near Monastiraki. The vibe was chill, the coffee was strong and smooth, and I needed both.
Later, while walking, I turned and saw a man shooting up in broad daylight. It caught me off guard. I didn’t know how to react. Just a reminder—cities aren’t only ruins and rooftops. They hold everything: the beautiful, the creative, and the hard stuff too.
The next morning, I set out on a historic bike tour—private again, and also booked through Viator. We met in Monastiraki Square, same as the day before. I’m guessing a lot of tours use the square as a meeting point.
The route covered a lot of ground—ancient ruins, quiet neighborhoods, neoclassical buildings, and some places I might’ve passed without realizing they were there.
Once we got going, we rode through some of the city’s most iconic spots. First was the Roman Agora—once a busy marketplace, now a quiet open space with a few scattered ruins. From there, we made our way to the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Even with only a handful of columns still standing, it’s massive. You get a real sense of how enormous it must’ve been.
We also passed the Panathenaic Stadium—the only stadium in the world made entirely of marble. It hosted the first modern Olympics in 1896, but its history goes back to ancient times. It’s one of those places that’s both impressive and oddly quiet now.
The ride continued toward the Acropolis. I’d already seen it from different angles, but biking up to the base and looking up at the Parthenon was still impressive.
We also rode past places like the Arch of Hadrian and the Presidential Mansion, where the guards still stand watch in full traditional dress. We didn’t stop for long, but it gave me a feel for how the city flows—how all the pieces sit side by side.
We came to the Church of Panagia Kapnikarea—one of the oldest churches in the city—sitting right in the middle of a busy shopping street. Built in the 11th century, it has a patchwork look from all the layers added over time. The brickwork was especially beautiful—simple at first glance, but full of detail if you looked closely.
We continued through the historic center, past Syntagma Square, the edge of the National Gardens, and into Psyrri (an area I’d seen on my street art tour the day before). From there, we continued over to the Acropolis Museum. We didn’t go inside, but stopped for a few minutes while my guide pointed out the highlights and shared tips for visiting later.
We looped back through the Roman Agora area to check out a few more nearby sites: the Tower of the Winds—an octagonal clock tower that somehow managed to measure time, wind, and water all in one—and the Gate of Athena Archegetis. Four massive Doric columns still stand there.
The bike tour really gave a great overview of Athens—not just the famous landmarks, but how the neighborhoods connect, how old and new sit side by side, and how much history is layered into the city. It was the kind of experience that helped me get my bearings and see parts of Athens I probably wouldn’t have found on my own.
After the tour, I had dinner at Vegan Beat, a small spot near Monastiraki Square that serves plant-based versions of Greek street food. Their mushroom souvlaki was a solid twist on the classic—grilled just right and full of flavor. It was a great place to sit, recharge, and take in the buzz of the square before heading to my next stop.
Once I’d eaten, I decided to hike up Lycabettus Hill. From my hotel in Plaka, it was about a 15-minute walk to the base, then another 20 minutes or so to reach the top. The trail winds through pine trees and gets steep in parts, but it’s not a long hike, and the views along the way make it worth it. I could’ve taken the funicular, but after biking all day, the walk felt like a good way to wind down.
I reached the top just in time for sunset, with the Parthenon glowing in the distance with Mount Hymettus behind it and the Aegean Sea stretching out beyond the city. A quiet, wide-open way to wrap up my time in Athens.
It was a great few days in Athens—biking past ancient ruins, hiking up Lycabettus Hill, and soaking in the energy of Monastiraki Square.
Athens also turned out to be a surprisingly good city for vegetarians like me. While Greece is known for its grilled meats and souvlaki, traditional Greek food has plenty of plant-based dishes thanks to the Mediterranean diet. Things like gemista (stuffed tomatoes and peppers), fava, spanakopita, and grilled halloumi were easy to find. And the city has some great vegetarian and vegan-friendly spots too—Vegan Beat near Monastiraki Square and Avocado near Syntagma were both worth visiting.
Athens wasn’t what I expected, but I ended up really enjoying it. The mix of ancient ruins, loud streets, quiet corners, and good food made it feel layered and alive. Three days wasn’t nearly enough—I only scratched the surface—but I left feeling like I got a real taste of the place. Next time, I’d love to dig a little deeper, explore more neighborhoods, and maybe spend a day along the coast.
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