I flew into Athens and met up with a few friends from my hometown yoga studio. Once everyone arrived, we hopped in a van and drove to Epidaurus, where we’d be based for the next six days (technically seven, but we left on the morning of the seventh day, so I’m calling it six).
The drive set the tone: winding through the Arachnaio foothills before opening up to coastal views of the Saronic Gulf stretching along the Peloponnese.
Epidaurus (say “eh-pee-DAI-rus”) is best known for its remarkably well-preserved ancient theater, but it was also once a major healing center dedicated to Asclepius, the god of medicine. People came here seeking cures through ritual, rest, and early medical treatments.
That legacy of ritual and rest still lingers.
We started each day with yoga, wandered through sunlit ruins, climbed gentle hills, and soaked in the relaxed vibe. Warm breezes, quiet stone paths, and good energy—it felt like exactly the right place to unplug and recharge.
We spent six days in Epidaurus—specifically in Palaia, a small coastal village a few kilometers from the famous theater. It’s quieter and more low-key than the part most people picture, with a lived-in feel that made it easy to settle in.
Our base was Hotel Mike’s—a laid-back spot right on the water, just off the small square lined with family-run restaurants. The hotel also had its own restaurant with an outdoor terrace overlooking the bay.
Each morning, we enjoyed a Greek-style breakfast spread: spinach and cheese pies, pastries, yogurt, coffee, tea, and fresh juices. Simple, fresh, and exactly what you want before a day of yoga and wandering.
The village was picture-perfect: narrow streets, stone houses, local tavernas, and almost no tourists. Fishing boats bobbed in the harbor, and from the moment we arrived, I had a feeling it was going to be a great week.
It was definitely a place that invited you to slow down and relax, but there was still plenty to do. Right around the corner from Mike’s was a dive shop offering daily diving excursions.
I also discovered a local company offering paragliding—which made perfect sense with those dramatic cliffs along the coast. I reached out to Flying Paradise, and lucky me, they had an open slot—that afternoon!
At the scheduled time, I headed to the main parking area to meet the driver—Vasileios—who, as it turned out, was also the pilot. He pulled up in a beat-up van with no logo or anything on the side. Having just arrived that morning, climbing in alone with someone I’d never met felt a little random. No one else in my group wanted to come, so off I went solo. But as soon as we got on the road, I felt completely at ease. Vasileios was easy to talk to—relaxed, friendly, and calm—which helped right away.
The drive from Mike’s to the launch site—somewhere between Koliaki and Panagia—took about 20–30 minutes. We wound through olive groves and rocky Argolis hills, the landscape getting prettier the higher we climbed. Finally, we reached an open plateau with a sweeping view of the Saronic Gulf below. It was stunning.
At the launch site, Vasileios walked me through the gear—harness, helmet, wing—and gave a quick safety rundown. We even paused to snap a few photos before takeoff.
Then we ran together toward the edge.
I leaned forward, kept running—
—and suddenly we were in the air.
Floating above the cliffs and the Aegean.
“Amazing” is overused, but it really was. Seeing this beautiful coastline from above, quiet except for the wind, felt surreal. And the thrill of flight? It never gets old.
After about 25-30 minutes in the sky, Vasileios guided us down to a soft landing near the beach.
Gliding over the cliffs and sea turned out to be the highlight of my time in Epidaurus.
After I got back from paragliding, I headed to Praxis for a late lunch—a simple Greek salad—and then decided to wander a bit before our evening yoga session. I followed the main road out past the houses and cafés until I spotted a sign for the Small Ancient Theatre, just a short walk from the village.
The path led through olive trees and quiet fields. I passed a little whitewashed Greek chapel with bright pink flowers out front—simple and peaceful. A bit farther on, I came across the ruins of the old castle of Palaia Epidavros. Not much is left now—just scattered stones and traces of ancient walls—but the views from up there were kind of amazing. You could see the curve of the coastline, boats in the bay, and the hills rolling out behind the town.
I kept going a bit farther and arrived at the Small Theatre—stone seats carved right into the hillside, with sea below and hills behind.
The entire walk (out and back) was under two miles, with a gentle incline going and a decline on the return. It felt like the perfect way to slow down and really soak in the place.
Later, back in town, I had dinner and then walked down to the dock in front of Hotel Mike. I sat there for a while just watching the boats and the sunset. The sky turned all kinds of colors, and the water was completely still. A peaceful end to the day.
On our second day, our group took a day trip to Nafplio, about a 45-minute drive from Epidaurus. It’s right on the Argolic Gulf, and with the bright blue water and mountain views, it almost feels like you’re on an island—even though you’re not. The old town sits on a little peninsula, surrounded by three different Venetian fortresses, and there’s a nice mix of beaches, shops, and cafés.
Nafplio felt like it was made for wandering—cobblestone streets, faded shutters, and a waterfront full of people who seemed in no rush to be anywhere else.
This is how Sandy (my friend from the retreat) and I spent our time there:
Climbed the Steps to Palamidi Castle
We started the day by heading for Palamidi Castle, which sits way up above the town. It’s a long climb—999 stone steps, if you’re counting—and yes, I did them. It was a workout, but the higher I got, the better the views. The castle was built by the Venetians in the 1700s and was later used as a prison during the Greek War of Independence. Definitely worth the climb.
Got a Gelato
After that, Sandy and I wandered back into the old town and made a very necessary stop at Antica Gelateria di Roma. I sampled a few flavors—strictly for research—but still went with my favorite: coffee. It’s one of those spots people talk about, and yeah, it earned the hype. Creamy, bold, just the right amount of sweet.
Wandered the Old Town
The rest of the afternoon, we just wandered around without much of a plan. The streets were narrow and winding, with little balconies covered in bougainvillea and random bits of old Venetian or Ottoman architecture popping out here and there. It was fun to just take it all in—no schedule, no pressure.
Coffee + People Watching
We grabbed iced cappuccinos at a café and sat for a bit, just watching people pass by. I don’t know if it was because we were relaxed and enjoying the vibe in Nafplio, but it kind of tasted like the best iced cappuccino of my life.
Like most day trips, it felt a little rushed. You get a glimpse of a place, but not quite enough time to explore it the way it deserves. Nafplio definitely left me wanting more. I’d love to come back someday with the time to settle in properly.
Later that evening, back in Epidaurus after yoga and dinner, I walked up again toward the castle ruins I’d visited the day before. I sat for a while and watched the sun set over the bay. It was peaceful and quiet up there, and the view—soft light over the water, the sky turning pink and gold—was beautiful. A really simple but perfect end to the day.
We wandered through the streets, past cafés, little shops, and a row of fish stalls where the day’s catch was laid out on ice—huge, glistening fish with silver scales and glassy eyes. The buildings were beautiful: whitewashed or soft yellow with red-tiled roofs, wooden shutters, and wrought iron balconies covered in bright bougainvillea. Every stoop seemed to have a flower pot or three, and mopeds wove past us through the narrow streets.
We stopped for lunch at Balkoni Restaurant, which had a terrace overlooking the water. I ordered a Greek salad that honestly might’ve ruined me for all future Greek salads. Everything tasted extra fresh—like it had just been picked that morning. As it should be. I was in Greece, after all. Note to my seafood-loving friends: the menu was full of fish dishes too—fresh and straight from the harbor, by the looks of it.
After lunch on Spetses, Sandy and I rented an ATV from Rent a Moto by Christos Delaportas—she drove, and I was safely on the back. Some of the streets in town were tight—pedestrians, sharp corners, flower pots right in your path—but once we got out of the center, things opened up.
We followed the road around the island, passing pine trees, rocky stretches, and little coves hidden below the cliffs. At one point, we climbed toward a hillside monastery and stopped to take in the view—just open blue water in every direction, with distant islands on the horizon. We could smell the pine and feel the wind as we rode. Honestly, just riding around with no plan felt pretty perfect.
We could’ve kept exploring for hours, but we had to keep an eye on the time. Still, we got to see some unforgettable views—clear turquoise water, olive tree after olive tree, and that kind of golden sunlight that makes everything look a little extra magical. Definitely hard to leave.
Spetses has plenty more to offer—museums (including one dedicated to Bouboulina, a Greek naval heroine), old churches, grand mansions, and more than enough shops if you’re in a souvenir mood. The neoclassical buildings around the harbor are worth a wander on their own.
You have to make choices on a day trip—and I was more than happy with ours.
And how do you wrap up a day like that before catching the ferry back to Epidaurus? With a freddo espresso at Klimis, of course. I grabbed a seat at one of the outdoor tables—the perfect spot to watch boats come and go. The whole vibe was calm and easy. I could’ve sat there all night if we didn’t have to get moving.
On day four, while the rest of the group took a day trip to Athens, I decided to stay back in Epidaurus. Since I was already planning to spend three days in Athens at the end of the retreat (more on that soon), I didn’t feel the need to go for just the day.
I’d chatted earlier in the week with someone from Epidive Dive Center, the little dive shop in town. He mentioned they were heading out on a morning dive trip and invited me to come along. And honestly, I never say no to a boat ride. There’s just something about being out on the water—the breeze in your hair, the sun on your face—it’s simple, but kind of perfect.
I mostly snorkeled instead of diving, but I enjoyed the ride, the quiet, and just floating around with nowhere to be. A nice chill morning.
After I got back from the boat, I headed out for a hike.
There are quite a few trails in the area, and I chose the Panagia Polemarcha Beach Loop—about six miles total, following the coastline most of the way. The trail started in the forest, was well-marked, and a little rugged in spots but never too difficult. The views of the sea along the way were incredible—just endless blue meeting the cliffs and trees.
Eventually I reached the Holy Monastery of Panagia, which dates back to the 15th century. The central church—a three-aisled basilica—is still standing. Inside, it’s simple, with a few old framed religious paintings on the walls and wooden chairs still lined up in rows. A red curtain hung across the altar, partly blocking it from view. It was kind of surprising to see everything still in place, considering the monastery’s been abandoned for so many years.
Just below the monastery was a small, quiet beach—clear water, only a couple other people around. It was the kind of spot that’s good for a rest, and for thinking—or not thinking—depending on what you need.
The rest of the day, I just enjoyed the relaxed pace of Epidaurus. Some wandering, evening yoga, dinner, and a glass of wine as I watched another beautiful day come to a close.
After a morning yoga session and a relaxed breakfast, we hopped in the van for the 20-minute drive to the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus.
Of course, I had to test the acoustics (they really are incredible). Always a little scary, though—my voice is not exactly pleasant to the ear, so I kept it quick and quiet.
From there, we wandered through the ruins of the Sanctuary of Asclepius, where people once came seeking healing. The remains of temples, baths, and what was basically an ancient hospital showed just how advanced Greek medicine was. I walked past weathered columns and crumbling walls, with signs filling in the details.
Once we got back to town, I went for a short hike along the coast toward the Sunken City. The trail started just outside the village and only took about ten minutes, but it was a beautiful walk.
The Sunken City is exactly what it sounds like—an ancient settlement now sitting just below the surface of the water. Believed to date back to around 1200 BC, it was likely part of a port town, possibly lost to earthquakes or rising sea levels. You can still see walls, foundations, and stone roads in the shallow, clear water just off the shore. Some say you can even spot bits of old pottery if you look closely. It’s not a roped-off archaeological site—just something quietly sitting there, open to anyone who feels like wandering out to explore.
Later that evening, our small group did a wine, olive oil, and cheese tasting at a little shop in town (sadly, I can’t remember the name, but it was tucked off a side street). We sampled different varieties and learned a bit about what actually makes a good olive oil.
After that, we headed back to Mike’s and had dinner outside—you couldn’t have asked for a more beautiful evening.
On our last day in Epidaurus, we drove to Porto Heli, a coastal town with a scenic harbor and a relaxed feel (though honestly, everywhere in Greece seems to be scenic and relaxed). From there, we caught a ferry across the Saronic Gulf to Poros.
Poros has a bit of everything—peaceful beaches, winding streets, and a few impressive historical sites—but for us, it was a quick stop. Even with just a short stroll, I liked soaking in the atmosphere and grabbing a quick coffee at a local café.
Then we hopped back on the boat and continued on to Hydra. You can only get there by sea—there are no cars on the island—which definitely adds to its atmosphere. We took the ferry with Hellenic Seaways, though there are a few smaller local outfits too, depending on where you’re coming from. Our route took us from Porto Heli to Poros, then on to Hydra across the Saronic Gulf.
Hydra’s port is undeniably stunning. The crescent-shaped harbor is lined with stone buildings, cafés, and old mansions stacked up the hillside. Along the waterfront, boats were packed in—fishing boats, water taxis, and the kind of superyachts that make you shake your head. It was one of those scenes that felt both totally relaxed and impossibly fancy at the same time.
A lot of the town is made up of whitewashed steps and stone walls that wind their way up into the hills, giving everything that soft, sun-worn look. There are no cars on the island, so the narrow streets are full of pedestrians, café tables, and the occasional mule or two.
After lunch, I wandered through town without much of a plan—just followed the narrow paths and climbed whitewashed steps higher into the hills. I passed old houses, a few sleepy cats, and courtyards that looked like they hadn’t changed in decades.
Hydra has this timeless, slightly weathered beauty, and it’s easy to see why artists and writers—like Leonard Cohen—were drawn to it. He lived here in the 1960s and wrote some of his early music in a modest house just above the port.
I also learned later that the island played a big role in the Greek War of Independence, which adds a different kind of depth to a place that, on the surface, feels mostly calm and dreamy. I’m sure I walked past a few “important” spots, but honestly, I was more focused on the quiet and the views.
I passed Spilia, one of Hydra’s rocky swimming spots just outside town, where loungers and umbrellas were set up on concrete platforms above the sea—available to rent. It looked like a great way to spend an afternoon if you had the hours to spare. I hadn’t brought swimwear anyway—I knew I wasn’t going to have that kind of day. That said, Spilia’s just one option—there are several other beaches around the island, including more remote ones you can reach by water taxi.
We had lunch at Oraia Hydra, a beautiful spot right on the waterfront. The food was incredible—authentic flavors, fresh ingredients, and plenty of vegetarian options too. Seafood might be their specialty, but my veggie dish was fab.
Sitting there with a view of the harbor, great food, and good company… it was one of those quietly perfect moments.
But, like all our day trips, it ended too soon—back on the ferry before I was ready, with just enough time to get a feel for the place and wish for more.
Palaia Epidavros turned out to be the perfect home base—plenty of history, stunning scenery, and just enough adventure to keep things interesting. Mornings were slow and easy, evenings were filled with great food, and in between, there was everything from hiking and swimming to paragliding off a cliff. A side trip to Nafplio brought a fortress climb with incredible views, while a day in Spetses meant zipping around on an ATV and finding out (again) that Greek salads just hit differently here.
Staying in the village also meant plenty of great restaurant options when we weren’t eating as a group. From Poseidon to Perivoli, there was no shortage of delicious meals, and I never had trouble finding vegetarian options. And the breakfasts at Hotel Mike’s never disappointed. Just wandering the village streets or sitting with a glass of wine while enjoying the views of the water… I loved all of it.
On our last day, we squeezed in a quick stop in Poros before making our way to Hydra, where even a few hours were enough to take in the picture-perfect harbor and enjoy an incredible lunch at Oraia Hydra.
Six days flew by, but it was the kind of trip that had a little bit of everything—history, adventure, and moments I already knew I’d be thinking about for a long time. I left with nothing but great memories—and a wish for a few more days.
Then, it was time to say goodbye to Epidaurus and return to Athens, where I spent three days before flying home.
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