Split offers a little bit of everything—ancient history, striking architecture, and the Adriatic Sea just steps away. Located on Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast, it’s the country’s second-largest city, but it still feels like a laid-back coastal town (aside from the crowds). At its heart is Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the best-preserved Roman monuments. With lively streets, great food, and a beautiful waterfront, it’s hard not to love.
Three Days in Split was the perfect way to kick off my 10-day Balkan trip with Intrepid Travel, especially since Split was the starting point. I had visited Split a few years ago while traveling in Croatia, but I only had a few rushed hours in the city. So this time, I gave myself a little more time to explore. And I’m so glad I did—Split is beautiful, full of history, easy to get around, and the perfect place to ease into a bigger trip.
I arrived at Split Airport—a small, modern, easy-to-navigate airport. Everything went smoothly—passport control was a breeze, my bag showed up quickly, and my pre-booked driver was waiting just outside with a sign. I love when travel days go this smoothly!
The drive from the airport to Split’s Old Town (where I had booked my stay) took about 40–45 minutes. Since much of Old Town is pedestrian-only, my driver dropped me near the Riva, Split’s lively waterfront promenade lined with outdoor cafés. From there, it was a short walk to my accommodations.
Before I arrived, Matusko, the owner of Lux B&B Rooms, sent me a step-by-step video with landmarks to follow. After a long day of travel, it was so much easier than trying to figure it out on my own. Using the video to find the B&B was a breeze. I wish every place I stayed did this—especially the ones that are a bit tricky to find.
Staying in Old Town usually means staying in an older building without an elevator, and that was the case with my B&B. The location was perfect—but being on the third floor wasn’t. Dragging my overpacked suitcase up three flights of narrow, spiral stairs was rough—and honestly, a bit dangerous. There was a railing on the outer edge, but nothing to hold on the inner wall. With a heavy bag and tight corners, it felt like one wrong move could send me tumbling. Next time, I’m packing way lighter.
Once I was settled, I headed out to explore. Split’s Old Town is a maze of narrow cobblestone streets, ancient stone buildings, and hidden courtyards. At the center of it all is Diocletian’s Palace, where shops, cafés, restaurants, and apartments fill the ancient walls.
Hungry by this point, I stumbled across a vegan restaurant called—of all things—Veg. Pretty straightforward with the name, so, as a vegetarian, it clearly called to me. The menu had a lot of interesting choices, but I eventually went with a dish called The Game Changer. It was a hearty mix of rice, kidney beans, tempeh, and seasonings—and it lived up to its name. Delicious and filling.
And lucky me for having 3 days in Split—because that meant I could come back. Yep. I’m a creature of habit. When I like something, I stick with it.
After dinner, I wandered down to the Riva. The waterfront was packed with people and buzzing with energy. On another night, I might have enjoyed the vibe, but after a long travel day, I was glad I had chosen a quieter restaurant farther in town. I walked to the marina across from the promenade and sat on the edge of one of the docks, watching the last light of the sun reflect off the Adriatic.
After a bit, I wandered back through the streets of Old Town. At one point, I heard music drifting through the alleyways and followed the sound. It led to a large crowd gathered outside the Croatian National Theater. I should have known—earlier in the day, I had walked by and noticed men setting up chairs and speakers.
Lucky me: a group called Abbazia was performing ABBA hits from Mamma Mia, and the crowd was really into it. I found a place to sit. It was fun to be part of the energy, and there was no way I was passing up the chance to sing along to “Dancing Queen.” I love Mamma Mia, so this was a fun and unexpected way to end my first night in Split.
The next day, I did a tour: Split: Old Town and Diocletian’s Palace Walking Tour (and Trogir Old Town), which I had booked through Get Your Guide. It started with a walking tour of Diocletian’s Palace and then continued to the nearby town of Trogir.
We met at the North Gate—one of the four main entrances to the palace. Just outside the gate is a massive statue of Grgur Ninski (Gregory of Nin), a 10th-century bishop who pushed to have church services in the local language instead of Latin. People say rubbing his big toe brings good luck—so, of course, I did.
Diocletian’s Palace feels more like a walled city than a single building. Inside the stone walls are streets, squares, temples, homes—and even today, some people still live and work there. Roman columns and arches sit alongside modern cafés, shops, and apartments.
Over time, the number of full-time residents has dropped. My guide explained that many of the old homes have been turned into short-term rentals, boutique hotels, restaurants, and shops, giving Old Town more of a tourist feel than a neighborhood. Once home to thousands, the palace area now has fewer than 200 full-time residents.
While UNESCO doesn’t set population requirements, it does stress the importance of keeping historic areas like this lived in—not just preserved. You can feel that shift in the souvenir stands, the packed squares, and the little tourist train circling the waterfront.
It was beautiful—no doubt about that—but also very crowded. Still, in a few corners, I spotted signs of everyday life, like laundry strung across narrow alleys and locals chatting in shaded doorways.
After exploring the palace, we drove about 35 minutes to Trogir, a small island town with over 2,300 years of history—a UNESCO-listed old town where Greek, Roman, and Venetian influences are easy to see in the architecture.
Walking along the promenade was one of my favorite parts—it’s lined with cafés, and the Adriatic is right there. The waterfront had a lively feel like Split’s, but it seemed smaller, less crowded, and more laid-back. There were also a lot more palm trees, which added to the relaxed, almost tropical vibe.
At one point, we stopped at the Cathedral of Saint Lawrence. The entrance was incredible—covered in detailed carvings of biblical scenes, saints, and animals. For a few euros, you could climb the bell tower, which, of course, I did. It was steep and narrow, but the view from the top was worth it: red rooftops, the sea, and hills stretching out in the distance.
After climbing the tower, I stopped for gelato at Dovani Gelato, a spot my guide recommended. It was rich, creamy, and exactly what I needed (okay, maybe not needed, but definitely wanted).
Trogir may be small, but there’s more to it than just the cathedral and gelato. We also visited the old town loggia—once a public meeting space, with carved stone columns and open arches. Just a few steps away was the clock tower of St. Sebastian, whose interior has been turned into a memorial for locals who died in the war for Croatian independence in the 1990s.
I also wandered through narrow alleys lined with souvenir shops and little cafés. Just outside the walls was a big open-air vegetable market which was also fun to wander though.
At the far end of the promenade was Kamerlengo Fortress—a 15th-century stone structure that once housed Venetian soldiers. It looks like something out of a medieval movie, though now it’s surrounded by souvenir stands and pancake stalls.
We didn’t spend a ton of time in Trogir, but I’m glad we stopped. It’s the kind of place I could see myself returning to—and not just for the gelato.
That evening (back in Split), I walked out of Old Town following the sidewalk along the marina. After a few minutes, I came to a steep set of steps leading up into Marjan Hill, a quiet, forested area with walking trails and viewpoints. The climb to the top took about 30 to 45 minutes, depending on pace and stops. Along the way, I passed St. Nicholas Church—a small medieval chapel dedicated to sailors and travelers.
From the top of Marjan Hill at Telegrin Peak, the views over Split and the Adriatic were incredible. On the way back down, I stopped at a little café—Teraca Vidilica—with a huge outdoor terrace, where I enjoyed an Aperol Spritz while watching the city lights twinkle in the distance. Sitting out there with the view spread out below was the perfect way to end another great day in Split.
On my last day in Split, I had arranged for a guide to take me to Klis Fortress. But before meeting him, I wandered into a strange little museum I’d read about on Atlas Obscura’s website—Froggyland.
Inside were 21 dioramas with 507 stuffed frogs, each posed in everyday scenes. A Hungarian taxidermist, Ferenc Mere, spent years in the early 1900s preserving and arranging them. One scene showed frogs in a classroom, another had them working as carpenters, and one even had them performing in a circus. It only took about 20–30 minutes to walk through, but it was definitely one of the weirder museums I’ve visited. Photos weren’t allowed—not that I noticed right away. Oops. Entry cost 5 euros, and it was worth it for the weirdness alone.
After Froggyland, I met up with my guide, and we drove about 30 minutes outside the city to Klis Fortress. Perched high on a rocky ridge, the fortress was a key defensive stronghold starting in the 2nd century BC.
Getting to the entrance took some effort. From the parking lot, it was about a 20-minute walk uphill. It wasn’t difficult, but the path was rocky and uneven in places, so good shoes were a smart choice. I stopped at a small booth to pay the admission fee before passing through a large set of doors—the main gateway. (The second set of gates is actually considered the main entrance.)
I passed through a series of stone gates and passageways, each one separated by stairs and designed to slow down attackers. Klis Fortress is also known as a filming location for Game of Thrones, which draws a lot of visitors—but its real history is just as interesting. From the top, the views were incredible—you could see the surrounding countryside, Split, and all the way to the sea.
At the top, there was a small church and a museum with artifacts from the fortress’s long history. The museum had old weapons, armor, and maps showing how the fortress was defended over the centuries. There were also exhibits about its role in holding back Ottoman forces. Walking through the ruins, I saw the remains of barracks, walls, and lookout points, all placed to keep invaders out. Standing at the highest point, with the wind blowing and a panoramic view stretching in every direction, I could see why this fortress had been so important for so long.
It’s a popular tourist spot, especially with large bus tours and cruise ship excursions from Split. Luckily, my guide timed our visit just right, arriving just after one of the big groups had left. Most of the organized tours follow tight schedules, especially the ones linked to cruise ships, so he knew when the crowds would clear out. I pretty much had the place to myself, making it so much easier to take in the history and the views without feeling rushed.
From Klis, my driver suggested a visit to the Salona Archaeological Park. It wasn’t in my original plan, but I’m glad I went. Salona was once the capital of Roman Dalmatia and is now a huge site filled with ruins—crumbling walls, broken basilicas, and old stone streets that give you a glimpse of what the city used to be. The amphitheater was one of the highlights. It’s smaller than some of the more famous ones, and a lot of it is missing, but you can still get a sense of how big it must have been. What made it stand out, though, was the quiet—when I arrived, the place was empty.
When I arrived, the place was empty. Normally, there’s an entrance fee, but there wasn’t even anyone there to collect it.
My guide grew up in the area and told me he used to play soccer with his friends inside the amphitheater when he was a kid.
His connection to the place ran deeper, though. His father had been killed during the Croatian War of Independence. He had worked as a mechanic but loved his country and volunteered to fight until there were enough soldiers. He died in battle and was buried in a cemetery on a hill just outside Split, which we passed on our way to Klis.
Back in Split, I headed over to the bell tower of St. Domnius Cathedral. It’s 183 steps to the top, which sounds like a lot, but the climb went pretty quickly. The stairway is steep and open in places, and sometimes you have to lean against the wall to let someone coming down pass—but overall, it wasn’t bad. Lucky me—there wasn’t even a line. I paid my €5 and just started climbing.
The views from the top were incredible. Looking out over the red rooftops of Old Town, the Adriatic Sea, and the mountains in the distance felt like the perfect way to say goodbye to Split. Standing there, taking it all in, I thought about everything I’d seen over the past few days—ancient cities, lively streets, and views I won’t forget anytime soon.
Spending 3 days in Split was the perfect way to kick off my Balkans trip. The city is beautiful, full of history, and easy to explore. If you’re planning a Croatia travel itinerary, Split is a great place to begin—especially with so many day trips nearby. It felt touristy when I visited in 2017, and even more so now, but places like Marjan Hill and Salona still offered those quieter moments that remind me why I love traveling. Now, I’m ready to leave the city behind and head into the mountains and villages of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
For official information on attractions and events, check out the Split Tourist Board Website.
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