Booking a yoga retreat in Tanzania was the perfect way to stretch my legs and horizons. Given the long flight, I decided to make the most of my trip by heading to Kenya nine days early to tackle Mount Kenya. After hours of Googling, I decided on Go To Mount Kenya and connected with Evan, a representative who was quick to answer all my emails and who helped me plan a 5-day Mount Kenya hiking trip on the Chogoria – Sirimon Route to Point Lenana — the third highest summit here (after Batian – 5199m and Nelion – 5188m).
Initially, the thought of doing this hike solo made me nervous. I’d tackled the Inca Trail before, but I had my daughter, Morgan for moral support. This time, it was just going to be me—until my friends Louie and Leslie decided to join in.
I flew into Nairobi in October, arriving 12 hours before Louie and Leslie.
Kenya is a vibrant country with stunning landscapes, diverse wildlife, and rich culture.
From the bustling streets of Nairobi to the serene beaches of the coast, Kenya offers a little something for every traveler.
The country’s national parks are a haven for wildlife enthusiasts, and the Great Rift Valley provides breathtaking views and geological wonders.
Before setting off on our Mount Kenya hiking adventure, we spent a full day exploring Nairobi, Kenya’s bustling capital.
The city offers a variety of shopping experiences, from outdoor markets to luxury boutiques. We wandered around the Maasai Markets, an excellent spot for souvenirs and local crafts.
Afterward, we visited the Kenyatta Monument— a tribute to Kenya’s first President, Jomo Kenyatta, symbolizing the nation’s struggle for independence and its journey toward unity and progress. Towering over Nairobi’s bustling cityscape, the monument is not only a historic landmark but also a reminder of Kenya’s resilient spirit and rich heritage.
From there, we headed to the Kenyatta International Convention Centre, an iconic landmark known for its unique cylindrical tower and rooftop helipad, which offers panoramic views of the city.
With the heat bearing down, we returned to our hotel, Tune Hotel Nairobi, and relaxed with drinks at the rooftop bar.
Here are some other things to do in downtown Nairobi:
That night, we dined at Carnivore, a famous restaurant known for its “beast of a feast,” featuring meats roasted on traditional Maasai swords over a giant charcoal pit in the center of the restaurant. This iconic restaurant serves a wide array of meats, including some you might not find on your typical menu—exotic options like ostrich, crocodile, and camel.
Carnivore is a meat lover’s paradise, with servers continuously bringing skewers of freshly grilled meats to your table, slicing off chunks until you signal that you’ve had your fill.
Despite being the only vegetarian at the table, I enjoyed the salads and baked potatoes.
The following day, bright and early, our Go To Mount Kenya representative picked us up from our hotel in Nairobi. We left the city behind and began the 3.5-hour drive to Chogoria, a town on the eastern side of Mount Kenya known for its lush forests and dramatic cliffs—and the gateway to our Mount Kenya hiking route. Here, we met our guide, Paul, and the crew—our chef and five porters.
After a quick lunch and gear check, we piled into a 4WD Land Rover for the final leg to the trailhead, eager to start our adventure through this picturesque landscape.
Our Mount Kenya hiking journey began in the bamboo forests, where we grabbed our daypacks, leaving our heavy bags behind. The 10-kilometer trek to Anabas Mount Lodge, sitting at 300) meters, was a steady but moderate climb. We took occasional breaks to catch our breath.
Just as we neared the lodge, the sky opened, and the rain poured down, soaking us completely. Fortunately, our cozy wooden cabin awaited, complete with a flush toilet(albeit finicky)and a shower.
Settling in, we had hot chocolate, cookies, and freshly popped popcorn from one of our porters while our chef-prepared dinner. After a game of rummy, we snuggled into our sleeping bags, bracing for the adventures ahead.
Though there was a shower—the only one we’d see for the next four days—it only had cold water, which I couldn’t do as I was already cold. So I washed my face, brushed my teeth, and zipped myself into my sleeping bag on one of the three beds in the room.
After a delicious and hearty breakfast, we grabbed our jackets and backpacks and headed out. Today, we hiked 9 kilometers to Nithi Camp. The trail wound through the forest and heather terrain to the Nithi River. The clouds against the indigo-blue sky were stunning. Though we didn’t spot any wildlife, the Mount Kenya hiking experience was a visual feast.
We lunched by a beautiful stream before climbing to our camp at 3,600 meters. An afternoon hike to a nearby waterfall capped off a perfect day.
Tonight, we marked the beginning of our tent camping experience. Our incredible porters assembled and disassembled our tents each day, ensuring we had a comfortable place to sleep.
Despite the rustic setting, our meals were plentiful and delicious. The chef never failed to amaze us with hearty breakfasts, satisfying lunches, and dinners that felt like feasts in the wilderness. The food provided the much-needed energy for our long days of hiking and became one of the trip’s highlights.
On day three we headed to Mintos Campsite, which sits at 4,200 meters. The views over Gorges Valley and the Northern Moorlands were stunning. We took some time to explore the “Temple,” a striking 150-meter vertical cliff, before calling it a night. We could see Point Lenana from our campsite, where we were headed the next morning. It still looked so far away, and the thick clouds surrounding it only added to its mystique.
It apparently started to snow so heavily during the night that Louie’s tent collapsed. At one point, he moved his sleeping bag into Leslie’s and my tent.
It was still snowing when one of the porters came to wake us at 4 AM with hot tea. The cold was biting, and I hesitated to leave my sleeping bag. Eventually, I did, but I had my breakfast inside the tent, refusing to eat at the outside picnic table
Paul stopped by to inform us that we needed to head out at 5 AM and advised us to wear several layers due to the freezing conditions.
The climb towards Lenana was grueling, navigating rocky, snowy, and very slippery terrain under the guidance of our expert, Paul. Just an hour from the summit, the weather worsened. The peak, already covered with scree and rocks, was now also cloaked in snow and ice. My gloves were wet, and my fingers were frozen. There were sections on the ascent where grabbing onto wire cables was necessary, and honestly, I doubted my ability to manage since I could barely feel my fingers. Louie and I decided not to summit and continued down the other side of the mountain toward Shipton Camp while Leslie and Paul pressed on.
Descending the mountain was no walk in the park. The snow-covered terrain made each step treacherous. Louie and I slipped numerous times, and even one of our porters, acting as our guide, slipped. It was a wake-up call about how desolate the area was and how easy it could be to get into trouble if we were not careful.
Shipton Camp, named after British explorer Eric Shipton, is a crucial base camp for climbers on Mount Kenya, located about 4,200 meters up. It’s mainly used for acclimatization before attempting to summit peaks like Point Lenana. The accommodations here are simple, offering rock shelters and bunkhouses with communal sleeping spaces and basic amenities. The camp features a large dining hall where climbers gather to eat and share experiences and a communal kitchen used by teams to prepare meals.
By the time we arrived at camp, our outerwear was soaked, and we were freezing to the bone. I kept rubbing my hands together, hoping to warm them, but the cold seemed unshakeable. Our porters turned out to be lifesavers—spotting how chilled I was, a couple of them guided me into the kitchen area to warm my hands over a Bunsen burner they had lit to cook our breakfast.
A few hours later, Leslie and Paul arrived, triumphant from their summit. We toasted Leslie with mini bottles of Fireball she had been carrying in her backpack. After enjoying a delicious and much-needed breakfast and feeling warm, we resumed our journey to Old Moses Camp.
The weather shifted from sleet and snow to hot and sunny as we trekked toward the camp.
Old Moses Camp, where we’d spend the night, had several wooden cabins in a dormitory-style layout equipped with bunk beds to accommodate hikers. Although we were sleeping in a tent again, the camp offered a spacious communal dining hall and a well-equipped kitchen area for groups to prepare meals. Basic indoor toilet facilities were a welcome change after days of using only outhouses or bushes. We even enjoyed some ice-cold beer, celebrating our descent and the incredible Mount Kenya hiking adventure we had embarked on.
The next morning, I woke up with swollen eyes and lips, likely a reaction to the drastic weather changes we had experienced. We descended to Old Moses Camp and then caught a vehicle back to Nairobi, arriving by late afternoon. On our way out, we saw wild zebras —our first sighing. Throughout the journey, our guide, Paul, encouraged us to take it “poley poley” (slowly) and to drink “maje maje” (water). The trek showcased diverse scenery, from bamboo forests to dramatic cliffs and cascading waterfalls.
Despite the challenges, this Mount Kenya hiking adventure was a journey of a lifetime. I’m incredibly proud of pushing my limits and knowing when to halt my ascent, even when the summit was within reach. Hiking Mount Kenya was a wild, marvelous, and unforgettable experience, and it’s just one of the many incredible hiking adventures Kenya has to offer.
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