Panama has a lot to offer—city life and nature all in one. I love exploring Panama City, but I always try to make time for nature too. When I found out El Valle de Antón, a small town in a volcanic crater, was only a few hours away, I knew I had to check it out. The cooler weather, beautiful views, and rainforest full of wildlife made it the perfect spot to relax for a few days.
I left Panama City and headed west to El Valle de Antón, a small mountain town about two hours away. I booked my ride through Daytrip, and as luck would have it, my driver was the same one who had picked me up from Tocumen International Airport four days earlier.
As we left the city, we passed Cerro Ancón, a historic hill symbolizing Panamanian sovereignty, with the large Panamanian flag at its summit—quite a striking sight. With better planning, I could have scheduled a stop at Cerro Ancón to hike the 30-minute trail to the top for panoramic views of the city and canal. Next time, it’s definitely going on my list. That’s one of the benefits of using Daytrip—you can customize your route to include stops like this.
Soon after, we crossed the Bridge of the Americas, which gave me a clear view of the Panama Canal from a completely different perspective.
Just past the bridge, we made a quick stop at a Chinese monument, which honors the contributions of the Chinese community to Panama, dating back to the construction of the Panama Canal and beyond.
The dense city skyline gradually gave way to lush greenery, and before long, we were surrounded by rolling hills. The volcanic ridges surrounding El Valle de Antón came into view, their rugged outlines growing more defined as we climbed. The cool air and lush surroundings of El Valle offered a welcome escape from the bustle of Panama City—a quieter, slower, and more peaceful place, perfect for unwinding for a few days.
El Valle de Antón, nestled within one of the few inhabited volcanic craters in the world, offers a cooler climate, abundant greenery, and diverse wildlife—a perfect contrast to Panama City’s heat.
I stayed at The Golden Frog Inn, a quiet spot just outside the town center.
The tropical gardens were lush, and my room opened directly into them, which was a nice touch. The inn also has a small pool, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploring. Breakfast was included with my stay, and the coffee each morning was delicious. There were about 6 or 7 options on the menu, plus a small buffet available every morning
The inn has an on-site restaurant, Volcancito’s, which always seems to top the lists of best restaurants in El Valle—and I can see why. The menu was fantastic, with plenty of vegetarian options for me, and their craft cocktails were excellent. I’ve been on a bit of a margarita kick here in Panama, and theirs did not disappoint. The staff was incredibly kind, but honestly, that’s been my experience everywhere I’ve visited in Panama.
El Valle itself is compact but has everything you need: bike rentals, restaurants, coffee shops, and even two banks with ATMs. While its tourism infrastructure is still developing, the charm and relaxed vibe of El Valle more than made up for it.
The cooler temperatures here were a welcome change from Panama City’s heat, though the midday sun was still relentless. After walking into town in the middle of the afternoon to grab some cash, I returned completely drained. Back in my room, I blasted the air conditioner on high, ripped off my sweaty clothes, and collapsed onto the bed. I was out cold for over an hour, completely wiped out.
Later that evening, I took a walk along a trail behind the inn. The earlier rain had made it a bit slippery, but I managed just fine. It wasn’t a long climb, but the views at the top were absolutely worth it. The valley stretched out below, framed by mountains with clouds drifting in and out—it felt almost surreal.
Once back, I grabbed dinner at the Golden Frog Inn. The menu had three or four vegetarian options—I went with the sweet potato tacos. And man, they were so good. I definitely nailed the choice of where to stay.
This morning, Carlos, my hiking guide while in El Valle, picked me up at the Golden Frog Inn to start our hike to Cerro La Silla, just outside town. I had arranged his services through the inn, where he came highly recommended. The drive to the trailhead wasn’t too long—maybe 15 to 20 minutes—but the uneven road, full of potholes and loose gravel, made for a bumpy ride. Fortunately, Carlos’s four-wheel-drive vehicle handled it with ease, and we soon arrived, ready to begin the hike.
The trail itself is relatively flat but rocky, with about 300 feet of elevation gain. Some sections are steeper, but overall, it’s an easy hike. The round trip is roughly 3 miles and usually takes 2 to 3 hours, depending on how often you stop to look around or search for wildlife.
Along the way, Carlos stopped to show me a parade of leaf-cutter ants and explained how they use leaves to grow fungus as their food. He also pointed out an owl butterfly resting on a tree trunk. Its wings, with their large eye-like markings, blended perfectly with the bark.
At the summit, I took a break to enjoy a banana I’d grabbed from the breakfast buffet and take in the view. The Anton Valley stretched out below, surrounded by mountains, with clouds drifting in and out. Carlos pointed out landmarks in the distance and said that on clear days, you can even see the Pacific Ocean.
So, a bit off-topic, but I can’t help mentioning that the banana I was eating was the best I’ve had in years—my first in Panama! It had the perfect texture and flavor, just like I remember from childhood. Back home, bananas are often hard and tasteless, even when they look ripe. Anyway, I’ll be making sure to enjoy my share of bananas while I’m here—what a treat. Sorry for the digression!
Once again, Carlos picked me up at the Golden Frog Inn—today to take me to La India Dormida, a hike named for the ridge’s resemblance to a reclining woman. The name comes from a local legend about a young indigenous woman who fell in love with a Spanish settler—a forbidden love that ended in heartbreak. Overcome with sorrow, she wandered into the mountains, where she is said to have laid down and never risen again. Her resting figure is believed to be forever captured in the outline of the mountains.
The trailhead for La India Dormida was about a 15-minute drive from the Golden Frog Inn—honestly, close enough to bike if I’d felt like it. Along the way, Carlos pointed out Calle Los Millonarios, a street lined with big houses and a name to match. It was just one part of the drive, which was otherwise smooth and easy—quite the contrast to yesterday’s bumpy off-roading adventure. We reached the trailhead in no time.
La India Dormida is one of the most popular hikes in the area and often gets crowded on weekends. Like many other hikes nearby, there’s a small entrance fee—about $3—that you pay as you enter.
The hike is about 4 miles round trip and rated moderate due to steep inclines and rocky, sometimes slippery terrain. If you don’t do the round trip and continue south along the summit, the hike extends to about 6 miles. You’d follow the mountain ridge south until you hit a road that leads back into El Valle de Antón.
Parts of the trail follow a stream, and along the way, we passed several waterfalls and natural pools— some of which are used for wading in the summer. The hike was unique in that we went through both tropical and dry forests, which added some nice variety to the scenery
Not far from the entrance is a large rock known as Piedra Pintada, a boulder covered with ancient petroglyphs. These carvings—believed to date back hundreds or even thousands of years—feature geometric shapes, animals, and mysterious symbols. They are thought to represent the beliefs and daily life of the indigenous cultures that once lived in this area.
As we neared the summit of La India Dormida, the trail became steeper, leading us to a section where we had to scramble over large, uneven boulders. I had to pull myself up in a few spots, which I thought was a lot of fun. Rock scrambles aren’t everyone’s cup of tea, but I happen to love them—the challenge adds to the experience. With each step, the view of the valley below became even more stunning. If you’re afraid of heights, though, you might want to focus on the boulders in front of you rather than looking around or down. Just keep telling yourself the views will be worth it—because they are.
After reaching the summit, the descent was pretty straightforward—though I still had to watch my footing since the rocks were even more slippery coming down.
After returning from the hike, I rented a bike (the Golden Frog Inn rents them for a small fee) and spent the afternoon riding around town. It was easy—mostly flat—so I could just cruise through the streets and take in the vibe. I stopped by Kare Coffee for a quick break before heading back to the Golden Frog Inn.
As I made my way back to The Golden Frog Inn, I saw Carlos and his wife leaving in their truck (Carlos lives just down the road from the Golden Frog Inn). We waved like old friends as we passed each other, both with big smiles on our faces. I really like El Valle—the relaxed, slower pace of life here is exactly what I needed.
Before heading back to Panama City, I spent a bit more time at the El Valle Market—taking in the local atmosphere one last time.
Visit the Butterfly Sanctuary: If you’re into wildlife, don’t miss the Butterfly Sanctuary in El Valle. It’s an easy stop and offers a chance to see hundreds of butterfly species in their natural habitat.
Hot Springs: Relax in the nearby hot springs, which are said to have therapeutic benefits. They’re a great way to unwind after a long hike or a day of exploring.
Explore Local Waterfalls: El Valle is home to some beautiful waterfalls like Chorro El Macho, where you can take a refreshing dip in the natural pools.
Go Horseback Riding: There’s a barn down the road where you can rent horses for a ride through the scenic surroundings—an activity accessible to visitors no matter where you’re staying.
Arrange for a Massage: Many accommodations in El Valle can help arrange for a masseuse to come right to your room. It’s usually as simple as giving a day or two of notice, though it’s a good idea to schedule in advance.
El Valle de Antón truly offers something for everyone, blending opportunities for adventure, learning, and relaxation in one unique destination.
Getting There: The drive to El Valle takes about two hours from Panama City. Daytrip services are a convenient option if you’d like to customize your ride. If you’re driving yourself, keep in mind that the road is well-paved, but it’s a good idea to check for any updates on road conditions.
Weather: El Valle enjoys a cooler climate than Panama City, but it can still get quite hot during the day. Bring layers for the cooler mornings and evenings, as well as sunscreen and a hat for hikes or outdoor activities.
Currency: The U.S. dollar is used in El Valle, just like in the rest of Panama, so there’s no need to worry about exchanging currency. Cash is preferred in many local shops and at the market, so it’s good to have small bills on hand.
Local Guides: Hiring a local guide is highly recommended to enhance your hiking experience. Not only will you learn more about the area’s flora and fauna, but a guide can also help you discover hidden spots and share insider tips about the best local food and activities.
Other Essentials: Don’t forget insect repellent, especially if you plan to explore trails or spend time near water. Comfortable walking shoes are also a must for the uneven terrain.
The slower pace of El Valle was a refreshing change—a perfect chance to take a deep breath and reset. El Valle de Antón provided a peaceful contrast to Panama City’s lively energy. And, speaking of Panama City, if you missed my earlier blog, you can catch up here: 4 Days in Panama City: Solo Travel Through Culture and Cuisine
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