I’ve always loved exploring new places, so when the chance to visit Panama City came up, I jumped at it. I booked a nine-day group tour through Intrepid, paid the invoice, and secured my flight. Everything seemed set—until the next day when Intrepid called to say they couldn’t confirm a room at one of the stops and had to cancel my booking.
I wasn’t upset—after all, I’d only booked the trip two weeks before departure, so I understood the challenges of planning on short notice. At first, I thought about canceling my flight since I was still within the 24-hour refund window. But then I figured, why not go? I’d never been to Panama, and it looked like a great place to explore. So, I started putting together my own itinerary, booked the hotels, and decided to go for it.
What started as a little hiccup turned into the perfect chance to explore exactly the way I wanted. Without a group schedule, I had the freedom to do exactly what I wanted—whether it was wandering through Casco Viejo, choosing where to eat, or deciding how much time to spend at each stop. Panama turned out to be a fantastic destination for solo travel.
I spent four days in Panama City before heading to El Valle de Antón for three days of hiking and a completely different vibe. (Check out my blog, El Valle de Antón: 3-Day of Hiking and Exploring Nature in Panama, for all the details on that part of the trip.)
Here’s how my time in Panama City unfolded—a mix of history, culture, delicious food, and a few surprises along the way.
I landed at Tocumen International Airport (PTY) in the afternoon. Passport control was quick and straightforward. After grabbing my bag, I met my driver for the 40-minute ride to my hotel in Casco Viejo. On the way, I caught glimpses of Panama City’s skyline— sleek skyscrapers rising above the horizon. The city sits at the Pacific entrance of the Panama Canal, bordered by the Pacific Ocean and the canal itself. As we neared the center, colorful murals and street art brightened the streets.
About ten minutes from my hotel, torrential rain poured down from the sky. It didn’t last long, but it was enough to make me appreciate my umbrella—not just for the frequent November showers but also for the strong Panamanian sun. On some days, it was too hot for a hat, and the umbrella provided much-needed shade.
When I arrived at La Concordia Boutique Hotel, I was relieved to find it lived up to its reviews. My room was spacious, clean, and inviting, with a large, comfortable bed. Two sets of double doors led to a private second-floor balcony. There was even a table and chairs—the perfect place for me to enjoy a cup of coffee in the mornings.
The view of the streets from my balcony was great. The nearby streets were full of colorful buildings, many with iron balconies and detailed trim. The mix of colonial architecture and modern touches gave the neighborhood a fun and inviting feel. I could tell right away this was going to be a fun city to explore.
The only downside? Panamanians love to party—which isn’t a bad thing, of course, just not ideal when you’re trying to get some sleep. Several clubs and bars—including my hotel’s rooftop bar—kept the area lively well into the early hours. The thumping music wasn’t my favorite on nights I stayed in, but if you’re into nightlife, the location couldn’t be better.
After settling in, I wandered through Casco Viejo, exploring its narrow streets and small shops. One building really stood out with its ornate blue trim and oversized windows. It turned out to be a speakeasy—by day, it was a beauty salon, but at night, a hidden door in the back wall led to a nightclub.
For dinner, I headed to Restaurant Santa Rita, a vegetarian-friendly spot with some great options. I tried several items from their menu, including the avocado salad, grilled eggplant, and green fried plantains. They also had an extensive wine and cocktail list, but I was in the mood for a cocktail and went with a margarita—a great choice. The food and atmosphere made for a great experience.
Later, I headed up to the hotel’s rooftop bar, The Day Jon Died. Known for its craft cocktails, small bites, and stunning views, it did not disappoint. The friendly staff made the experience even better.
After I sat down, my waiter arrived with a Polaroid camera in hand and, surprisingly, asked if he could take my picture. Afterward, he took my drink order—a margarita. A few minutes later, he returned with the drink and the Polaroid photo clipped to the side of the glass. Sitting under the open sky, surrounded by the twinkling lights of Panama City, and enjoying my cocktail was the perfect way to end my first day.
I’d booked a tour through Get Your Guide: Panama: Boat Ride into the Panama Canal, Monkey Island, and a Sloth Sanctuary. The day began with a drive to Lake Gatun, passing neighborhoods built for American workers during the Panama Canal’s construction. These areas still have a mix of old buildings and remnants from that era.
We boarded a small boat at the Gamboa Boat Ramp and set off toward Monkey Island (Isla de los Monos). From the water, we could see the Chagres River and catch a glimpse of the Gamboa Rainforest Resort in the distance.
As we traveled through the Panama Canal’s waterways, we passed under a low bridge, ducking to avoid hitting its underside. We also spotted several cargo ships—some heading toward the Miraflores Locks (Las esclusas de Miraflores) and others coming from them. Our guide shared insights about how the locks operate as we continued along the canal’s path.
The jungle surrounded us, alive with the sounds of the rainforest, a reminder that this region is part of the vast tropical forest covering much of Panama.
At Monkey Island, we were greeted by Capuchins, Howler monkeys, and Geoffroy’s tamarins. The capuchins were the boldest, hopping onto the boat to grab the grapes and bananas we’d brought—clearly accustomed to associating visitors with food. The tamarins were more cautious at first but eventually ventured onto the boat. Meanwhile, the howler monkeys stayed high in the trees, their deep calls echoing around us.
I’m not a big fan of feeding monkeys, but watching them climb onto the boat—and even having one or two take fruit directly from my hand—made for a fun experience and a highlight of the tour.
Unfortunately, the rest of the tour didn’t live up to expectations. The Gamboa Sloth Sanctuary was dull, with all the sloths asleep, and the butterfly garden added little to the experience. We also stopped at a small local café for coffee and an empanada, but both were disappointing—the coffee was terrible, and the empanada wasn’t fresh. I had hoped for more, especially in a country known for its excellent coffee.
A quick visit to the Gamboa Rainforest Resort was nice enough. The pool, surrounded by tropical plants, and the views from the hotel balcony were beautiful. It felt like it would have been a great place to stay for a day or two, with a completely different vibe from the city and plenty of hiking trails nearby. But in our case, we were really just there to kill some time before our scheduled tour at the sloth sanctuary.
While Monkey Island is only accessible through a tour, I suspect many tours include unnecessary stops to justify their cost. If the boat ride and the monkeys are what you’re really interested in, it might be worth looking into whether you can book a boat directly to Monkey Island and skip the extra stops. I’m not sure if that’s an option, but it seems like it would make for a much more relaxed and enjoyable experience.
Back in Casco Viejo, I stopped at a little place to cool off with a cold Balboa beer and some crispy fried green plantains. After that, I wandered through the streets, checking out shops that caught my eye—especially the ones with vibrant textiles, like the molas made by the Guna people. The colors and intricate patterns were absolutely stunning.
I joined the Legends of Casco Viejo: Uncovering Hidden Gems walking tour which I booked through Viator. The guide was fantastic—well-informed and enthusiastic, sharing fascinating stories about Casco Viejo’s layered history.
The tour began at Plaza Herrera, a square surrounded by colonial-style buildings. At its center stands a statue of Tomás Herrera, a national hero who played a key role in Panama’s fight for independence.
Casco Viejo, meaning ‘Old Quarter’ or ‘Old Shell,’ was built after the destruction of Panama Viejo. The name also reflects its original design as a fortified settlement. The area was once completely enclosed by walls, with a single gate for access, and its streets were laid out in a grid to make defense easier.
From Plaza Herrera, we walked down an alley to an area where we saw a section of the old city wall still standing. Much of the wall was removed in the 19th century when Panama began to expand during the California Gold Rush, but sections remain intact in other areas of the city.
We walked through Santa Ana, a lively neighborhood just outside the original city walls. While some parts are still a bit run-down, the area has a vibrant pedestrian street, Avenida Central, lined with shops and street vendors selling everything from clothing to electronics. The colorful buses known as Diablos Rojos with their bold designs and loud personalities, added even more character to the bustling streets.
After leaving Calle Colón and the Santa Ana area, we crossed the Cinta Costera, the main highway circling Casco Viejo. On the other side, we climbed some steps to the waterfront. From there, we made our way to the Walkway of the Vaults, a path built on the remnants of an old Spanish sea wall. The views were fantastic—Panama City’s modern skyline in the distance, the Bay of Panama stretching out ahead, and the historic streets of Casco Viejo behind us. The walkway buzzed with vendors and artists selling crafts.
From the walkway, we wandered into Plaza Bolívar, with its monument to Simón Bolívar at the center. Next was Plaza de la Independencia, where Panama declared independence from Spain in 1821. Finally, we stopped at Plaza de Francia, which honors the French attempt to build the canal. The plaza’s obelisk, topped with a rooster, caught my eye. The rooster symbolizes vigilance and pride—a perfect fit for the story of the canal.
From there, we headed back into Casco Viejo to keep exploring its streets and history.
Other highlights included the beautifully restored Metropolitan Cathedral and the and the Iglesia de San José, known for its stunning Golden Altar (Altar de Oro) and its inviting wooden-beamed interior.
Finally, we made our way back to Plaza Herrera, where the tour wrapped up. Early in the tour, I had passed by Special Gourmet Restaurant and remembered reading that their empanadas were highly recommended. So,before heading back to my hotel, I decided to stop in and try the eggplant and zucchini empanada—it lived up to the hype. I ended the day with a refreshing iced coffee from Casa Sucre Coffeehouse—a perfect way to cool down after the tour. Honestly, though, it was just nice to sit for a while, take it slow, and soak in the feeling of being in Panama City.
Later in the afternoon, I headed to Nomé Chocolate for a chocolate-making class. The owner, originally from Chiriquí, fell in love with chocolate-making while in Switzerland and brought his passion back to Panama.
The class was hands-on, and I learned about the process from cacao pod to chocolate bar. My creation was simple—cranberries and walnuts—and chocolate, of course. While we waited for our bars to set, we sampled chocolates, and to my surprise, my favorite was the passionfruit-filled one. I’m usually not a fan of filled chocolates, but this one was incredible. My bar didn’t even make it back to the hotel; I ate it as soon as I stepped out.
For dinner, I headed to Snack Shack, a cozy little place just an eight-minute walk from my hotel. The menu focused on vegan and vegetarian dishes, and I went with the jackfruit tacos. They were packed with flavor and had just the right kick of spice. The service felt a little rushed—they cleared my plate just before I had finished my second taco—but the food more than made up for it. I was happy to stumble upon another great spot for vegetarian options in the city.
The day started with a visit to the Miraflores Visitor Center for an up-close look at the Panama Canal. I booked an Uber and asked the driver to wait an hour—a simple and affordable way to visit. The center has several viewing platforms, and I managed to snag a front spot to watch the locks in action.
I got lucky with the timing—seeing a large cargo ship, two tugboats, and a recreational boat moving through. Watching the process was fascinating, and since timing can be hit-or-miss, I was thrilled that my morning worked out so well.
The IMAX film, narrated by Morgan Freeman, provided a fantastic overview of the canal’s history. It explained the challenges faced by the French and how the U.S. eventually succeeded in completing the project. The locks operate using gravity and water from Gatun Lake, raising and lowering ships to connect the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Watching the water levels rise and fall was absolutely fascinating and a real highlight of my visit.
After leaving the visitor center, I went to the Panama Canal Museum in Casco Viejo to learn more about the canal’s history. Exhibits showed everything—from the engineering it took to build the canal to the lives lost during construction. It gave me a whole new appreciation for how important the canal is and what it took to make it happen. Seeing both the achievement and the cost was definitely worth it.
Later, I visited the Mola Museum— dedicated to the colorful textiles made by the Guna people. The intricate patterns and cultural significance behind each design were fascinating. Learning about the symbolism in the molas made me appreciate them even more, and I couldn’t resist picking up a tote bag embroidered with a mola design at the nearby Mercado Nacional de Artesanías.
For dinner, I stopped at Vegan Shack, tucked away on a quiet street. The food was delicious and fresh, and it was the perfect spot to unwind. Just as I was leaving, it started pouring—hard. Once again, I was so happy to have my umbrella with me.
I ended the evening at Pedro Mandinga’s Rum Café, where I enjoyed a Cáscara Spritz and some plantain chips. The relaxed, lively vibe made it the perfect way to wrap up my day.
Before heading to El Valle de Antón, I realized I hadn’t made it to the Mercado de Mariscos (Fish Market) yet, so I took one last walk around Panama City to check it out. The place was full of life—vendors shouting out deals, the smoky smell of grilled seafood everywhere, and stalls loaded with fresh catches. It was the perfect way to squeeze in one more bit of local flavor before moving on.
I tried the coconut rice and some fried green plantains from a nearby restaurant—one of my Uber drivers had insisted I give the rice a try—and it didn’t disappoint. The rice was creamy and flavorful, a perfect send-off from the city. As I sat enjoying it, I couldn’t help but reflect on how much I had packed into my time in Panama City. From the historic charm of Casco Viejo to the awe of the Panama Canal, the city offers a perfect mix of culture, history, and vibrant energy.
I had prearranged the drive to El Valle de Antón through DayTrip for the next part of my adventure. The city’s skyline faded in the rearview mirror, replaced by lush greenery and rolling hills. It was a bittersweet goodbye, but I was excited to see what awaited me in this serene mountain town. (More on that in my El Valle de Antón: 3 Days of Hiking and Exploring Nature in Panama blog.)
• Panama is on U.S. Eastern Time, so you won’t need to adjust your clock if you’re traveling from the East Coast.
• Staying in Casco Viejo is a great choice—it’s charming, easy to walk around, and puts you close to the action.
• Always carry an umbrella. Panama’s weather can be unpredictable, with sudden rain showers, and the sun can be intense when it’s out.
• Panama uses the U.S. dollar, which makes things simple—no need to deal with currency exchange.
These little details made my trip a lot easier, and I hope they help you, too!
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