Panama has a lot to offer—city life and nature all in one. After exploring Panama City, I wanted to trade skyscrapers for mountains. I headed to El Valle de Antón, a town inside a volcanic crater just a couple of hours away. With its cooler weather, rainforest trails, and mountain views, it was the perfect place to get outside, spot wildlife, and do some hiking.
The drive from Panama City to El Valle took about two hours. I had pre-arranged the ride with Daytrip, which made things easy. Within about fifteen minutes we were crossing the Bridge of the Americas, with a wide view over the Panama Canal. Soon after, the city skyline gave way to greenery, the road carrying us southwest through rolling hills. Before long, the volcanic ridges around El Valle came into view, their outlines growing sharper as we approached the valley.
El Valle de Antón, nestled within one of the few inhabited volcanic craters in the world, offers a cooler climate, abundant greenery, and diverse wildlife—a perfect contrast to Panama City’s heat. Surrounded by mountains and cloud forest that create its own microclimate, the valley stays noticeably cooler. It’s also home to a surprising variety of orchids and butterflies, which thrive along the trails that wind through all three types of rainforest.
I stayed at The Golden Frog Inn, a quiet spot just outside the town center.
The tropical gardens were lush, and my room opened directly into them, which was a nice touch. The inn also has a small pool, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploring. Breakfast was included, with six or seven options on the menu plus a small buffet, and the coffee each morning was excellent.
The inn’s on-site restaurant, Volcancito’s, always seems to top the lists of best restaurants in area—and I can see why. The menu was fantastic, with plenty of vegetarian options for me, and their craft cocktails were excellent. I’ve been on a bit of a margarita kick here in Panama, and theirs did not disappoint. The staff was incredibly kind, though honestly that’s been my experience everywhere I’ve visited in Panama.
El Valle itself is compact but has everything you need: bike rentals, restaurants, coffee shops, and even two banks with ATMs. While its tourism infrastructure is still developing, the charm and relaxed vibe of place more than made up for it.
The cooler temperatures here were a welcome break from Panama City’s heat, though the midday sun was still relentless. After walking into town in the afternoon to withdraw some cash, I came back to the Golden Frog drenched in sweat and completely drained. I blasted the air conditioner, peeled off my clothes, and collapsed onto the bed—out cold for over an hour.
Later that evening, I hiked up a trail behind the inn. The earlier rain had left it slick in spots, but it wasn’t a tough climb. At the top, the valley spread out below, framed by mountains and rainforest, and the views made the effort more than worth it.
Back at the inn, I tucked into sweet potato tacos for dinner. They were fantastic and sealed the deal: I’d chosen the right place to stay.
This morning, Carlos, my hiking guide in El Valle, picked me up at the Golden Frog Inn for a hike to Cerro La Silla, just outside town. I had arranged his services through the inn, where he came highly recommended. The drive to the trailhead wasn’t long—maybe 15 to 20 minutes—but the uneven road of potholes and loose gravel made for a bumpy ride. Fortunately, Carlos’s four-wheel-drive handled it with ease, and we soon arrived, ready to start.
The trail itself is relatively flat but rocky, with about 300 feet of elevation gain. Some sections are steeper, but overall it’s an easy hike. The round trip is roughly three miles and usually takes two to three hours, depending on how often you stop to look around or search for wildlife.
I should probably mention that Carlos isn’t just a guide but a passionate naturalist, with eagle eyes for spotting things I never would have noticed on my own. Along the way, he stopped to show me a parade of leaf-cutter ants and explained how they use leaves to grow fungus as their food. He also pointed out an owl butterfly resting on a tree trunk. Its wings, with their large eye-like markings, blended perfectly with the bark.
At the summit, I took a break to enjoy a banana I’d grabbed from the breakfast buffet and take in the view. The Anton Valley surrounded by mountains with clouds drifting in and out. Carlos pointed out landmarks in the distance and said that on clear days, you can even see the Pacific Ocean.
And about that banana—it was the best I’ve had in years, my first in Panama! Perfect texture, perfect flavor, just like I remember from childhood. Back home, bananas are often hard and tasteless, even when they look ripe. Here, they taste like fruit is supposed to taste. I’ll definitely be making sure to enjoy my share while I’m here.
Today Carlos and I headed out on another hike—this time to La India Dormida, a ridge said to resemble a reclining woman. And honestly, it really did. The name comes from a local legend about a young indigenous woman who fell in love with a Spanish settler, a forbidden love that ended in heartbreak. Overcome with sorrow, she wandered into the mountains, lay down, and never rose again. Her figure is said to live on in the outline of the mountains.
The trailhead was only about a 15-minute drive from the inn. On the way, Carlos pointed out Calle Los Millonarios, a street lined with big houses and a name to match. It turns out the trail is only about a mile and a half from the Golden Frog—if I’d done a little more research, I could’ve just walked or biked there. The trail itself was short and well marked, but having Carlos along for his knowledge made it more than worth it.
La India Dormida is one of the most popular hikes in the area and often gets crowded on weekends. I could see why: the trail winds through rainforest that opens into grassy hills, and the views from the top stretch over El Valle and the mountains beyond. There’s a small entrance fee (about $3) collected at the start. The hike is about four miles round trip with roughly 1,000 feet of elevation gain, moderate overall except for a few steep inclines and rocky, sometimes slippery terrain. If you keep going south along the summit instead of looping back, the trail extends to about six miles, ending at a road that leads back into town.
Parts of the trail follow a stream, and we passed several waterfalls and natural pools—some used for wading in the summer. What made the hike stand out was the variety: sections of dense tropical forest gave way to stretches of drier woodland, each with its own feel.
Not far from the entrance is a large rock known as Piedra Pintada, a boulder covered with ancient petroglyphs. These carvings—geometric shapes, animals, and mysterious symbols—are believed to date back hundreds or even thousands of years, reflecting the beliefs and daily life of the indigenous people who once lived here.
As we neared the summit, the trail grew steeper, leading to a section where we had to scramble over large, uneven boulders. I had to pull myself up in a few spots, which I thought was a lot of fun. Rock scrambles aren’t everyone’s cup of tea, but I love them—the challenge makes the hike more interesting. With each step, the valley opened up below, and by the time we reached the top the views were worth every bit of the climb.
The descent was pretty straightforward, though I still had to watch my footing since the rocks were even more slippery coming down.
Later that afternoon, I rented a bike from the inn (they offer them for a small fee) and rode around town. The streets are mostly flat, so it was easy to just cruise and take in the vibe. I stopped at Kare Coffee for an iced coffee—and it was honestly so good—before heading back.
On my way in, I saw Carlos and his wife leaving in their truck. We waved like old friends as we passed, both with big smiles. I really like El Valle—it just felt good to be in.
Before heading back to Panama City, I decided to stop at El Valle Market and take in the local atmosphere one last time. Locals often call it the Sunday Market, though in reality it’s open every day.
The market was bustling with stalls of fresh fruits, vegetables, and an impressive variety of plants and flowers. There were also some tempting baked goods, and I found myself wishing I hadn’t just eaten breakfast at the inn.
Visit the Butterfly Sanctuary: A colorful stop where you can see hundreds of butterfly species in a lush, natural setting.
Hot Springs: Relax in the nearby hot springs, said to have therapeutic benefits—perfect after a hike.
Explore Local Waterfalls: El Valle is home to beautiful waterfalls like Chorro El Macho, where you can cool off in natural pools.
Go Horseback Riding: Rent a horse for a ride through the scenic surroundings—easy to arrange no matter where you’re staying.
Arrange for a Massage: Many inns can connect you with a masseuse who comes right to your room; just give a day or two of notice.
El Valle de Antón truly offers something for everyone, blending opportunities for adventure, learning, and relaxation in one unique destination.
Getting There: The drive from Panama City takes about two hours. Daytrip is a convenient option if you want to customize your route, but if you’re driving yourself, the road is well-paved—just check for updates on conditions.
Weather: El Valle’s climate is cooler than Panama City’s, but midday sun can still be intense. Bring layers for mornings/evenings and sun protection for hikes.
Currency: The U.S. dollar is used throughout Panama. Cash is preferred in shops and at the market, so carry small bills.
Local Guides: Hiring a local guide is highly recommended—they’ll point out flora, fauna, and hidden spots, and share insider tips.
Essentials: Don’t forget insect repellent, especially near water, and good walking shoes for uneven terrain.
El Valle de Antón was the perfect break from Panama City: cooler air, beautiful hikes, and plenty to do. From trails and waterfalls to biking through town and browsing the market, I got a glimpse of both the natural beauty and the everyday rhythm of the valley. If you’re planning a trip to Panama, a few days in El Valle are well worth adding to your itinerary.
