Dublin, with its rich history, literary heritage, and vibrant pub scene, was the perfect place to start our adventure. I wanted to explore the city a bit before beginning my 9-day hike along the Dingle Way in a couple of days.
Every corner of Dublin oozes history, from the majestic Dublin Castle to the bustling energy of Temple Bar. And let’s not forget about the literary giants like James Joyce who’ve left their mark on this city.
The pubs? They’re not just watering holes; they’re where you really get a taste of Dublin life over a pint or two.
After a long flight, touching down was a relief. Passport control and finding a cab were surprisingly hassle-free. Once we settled into the Wynne Hotel, it was only natural to head straight to the bar for that quintessential pint of Guinness. And get this—our hotel has its own tale to tell.
Dating back to 1845, the Wynne Hotel has a fascinating history linked to the Abbey Theatre, thanks to its owner, Miss Phoebe Wynn. She had a talent for attracting literary figures, making the hotel a popular spot for Abbey stage actors and writers.”
Back in 1913, our hotel’s Saints & Scholars Lounge hosted a significant historical event—the founding meeting of ‘The Irish Volunteer Force.’ It’s remarkable, isn’t it? It feels like history is ingrained in every part of this place.
We began our first day with a pint (though, admittedly, preceded by breakfast) before a visit to the historic Jameson Distillery on Bow Street. Even though they’re no longer distilling whiskey at this location, it’s still a piece of Dublin’s past worth exploring. And while they may not produce it here, they still age some of it in the city.
During our tasting session, we tried a few different blends—Jameson Black Barrel Proof, Powers Whiskey Gold Label, Jameson Crested, and Jameson Bow Street (18 years cast strength). I’m not exactly a whiskey connoisseur, but I have to say, it was quite fascinating.
After the whiskey tasting, we headed to The Brazen Head, which is said to be Dublin’s oldest pub. Despite undergoing a few renovations over the centuries, this establishment has managed to preserve some original features since its founding in 1198.
Upon entering, I was greeted by Irish flag banners hanging from the ceilings, while the walls were adorned with framed photos, various paper currencies, stickers, and other Irish memorabilia. Legend has it that the old wooden floor even bears marks from Viking spears, adding a fascinating touch of history to the pub’s ambiance.
Later, we caught a 45-minute bus ride to The Morgue in Templeogue Village, known as one of the finest pubs in South Dublin.
In the early ’80s, during his student days at Trinity College, Tom lived with the Tobin family in the Templeogue area. His daily ritual involved taking a bus to and from Trinity College. Each morning, Tom would trek behind Tobin’s house, traverse a field, and cross a stream using a fallen log—all to join a group of locals at The Morgue before classes. It was a quintessentially Irish way to start the day, with domino games being a regular feature. The stakes for each match were the price of a pint.
Known affectionately as “Lena’s” to the Tobins but widely recognized as “The Morgue,” the pub has an interesting history. Its location along the railroad line led to tragic accidents where pedestrians encountered trains, resulting in fatalities.
Being the only establishment with a cold cellar, The Morgue served as a temporary resting place for the deceased over the weekend before their journey to Wicklow, hence earning its name.
While The Morgue has retained its familiar charm, the surrounding area, once predominantly farmland, has seen considerable development.
Staying true to tradition, we indulged in a couple of pints of Guinness (even though I’m not typically a beer drinker). Along with our drinks, we couldn’t resist trying the “Morgue chips”—crispy fried potatoes with a spicy kick. Many of the other patrons here were enjoying a pint while watching horse racing on TV screens.
Once we got back to downtown Dublin, we had just a few minutes to freshen up before heading to The Duke. I had pre-booked a Literary Tour and Pub Crawl, and despite its touristy reputation, the reviews were outstanding, so why not? The tour was led by two local actors, Finn and Frank, who managed to squeeze it in between their acting gigs.
As the evening progressed, Finn and Frank entertained us with tales and performances from the works of Ireland’s literary giants. When they donned bowlers for a scene from Waiting for Godot, I knew we were in for a treat! We relished the entertainment and visited three popular pubs: Dukes (where the tour kicked off), The Palace, and O’Neill’s (where it wrapped up), inevitably leading to more rounds of Guinness. Finn and Frank did a stellar job, and the tour and pub crawl made for an incredible first night. I’d wholeheartedly recommend it.
Afterward, we strolled across the River Liffey, making our way back to the Wynne via the beautifully illuminated pedestrian Ha’penny Bridge. The reflections of the surrounding buildings on the water as we crossed were simply breathtaking.
Curious about the bridge’s peculiar name? When it was first built in 1816, a toll was charged for crossing. Interestingly, the toll started at one penny but was later increased to one penny-ha’penny, equivalent to 1½ pence. This toll system remained in place until 1919 when it was finally abolished.
Day two in Dublin began with a coffee and a scone at the Wynne Hotel.
Then we headed out, passing by the GPO Museum at the iconic General Post Office on O’Connell Street. We caught a glimpse of the towering Spire as we headed on toward the River Liffey, Dublin’s lifeline. Our walk continued through Temple Bar, a lively cultural quarter known for its narrow, cobbled streets.
We stopped at Trinity College, Ireland’s oldest university, established in 1592. It has produced renowned alums like Bram Stoker, Oscar Wilde, and Jonathan Swift, the author of Gulliver’s Travels.
Trinity has also been home to the historic Book of Kells since 1661. You can see its beautifully illuminated manuscripts at the Book of Kells Exhibition, where one page is displayed at a time and changed periodically for preservation.
The library, founded in 1592, has an impressive collection of over six million books and manuscripts. Its highlight is the Long Room, a 65-meter gallery filled with ancient books and statues of literary figures— a glimpse into Ireland’s cultural and intellectual history.
For Tom, a visit to Trinity is a walk down memory lane, having spent nine memorable months studying here years ago.
From Trinity, we made our way to Glasnevin Cemetery, which is a 30-minute walk from downtown. Although it might seem like a long walk on a map, it actually takes you through areas you might otherwise overlook.
Along the way, we passed landmarks such as the Garden of Remembrance and crossed the bridge over the Royal Canal, eventually passing by Mountjoy Prison.
Glasnevin Cemetery is the resting place of the who’s who of Irish history, from literary icons to renowned musicians to key figures of the Irish Republic like Michael Collins. As we explored the cemetery, we spent quite some time paying our respects at the graves of these influential figures.
Among them lies Brendan Behan, the acclaimed playwright and poet whose works continue to be cherished globally. Behan’s grave is marked by a simple headstone bearing a sign that reads: ‘A simple house painter.’ Visitors often leave tokens of appreciation and admiration, such as pens and small notes, honoring Behan’s impact on Irish literature and the enduring legacy of his bold, captivating works. Above a photo of Behan, which was left at the graveside, was one of his quotes — “I’m a drinker with a writing problem.”
I also stopped at Daniel O’Connell’s Tomb, known as the Great Liberator. Legend has it that touching his wooden coffin brings luck— naturally, I had to touch it.
Glasnevin Cemetery’s peaceful grounds, with lush greenery and vibrant flowers, offer a quiet escape from the city’s hustle and bustle.
Then, it was time to head to the Guinness Storehouse, where I had pre-booked tickets for a visit— a self-guided tour, entry to the Gravity Bar, and, of course, a refreshing pint of Guinness.
Before the tour, we made a pit stop on the fifth floor for a “Stoutie”—a Guinness with our selfie imprinted on the foam. I was amazed by the technology behind it, and the Guinness itself was visually stunning and incredibly tasty.
After the tour, we headed up to the Gravity Bar for breathtaking 360-degree city views while enjoying another pint of Guinness. Luckily, I snagged a window table, allowing us to relax and take in the scene for about an hour.
Though known to be crowded at times, the Guinness Storehouse is worth the visit.
As we made our way back to our hotel, we couldn’t resist grabbing some chips from Leo Burdock Traditional Fish and Chips in Christchurch, which has been serving fish and chips since 1913.
Later that evening, we caught a play at the Abbey Theatre, a must-do whenever in the city.
And then it was off to McDaid’s for an ending Guinness and some TRAD music. The place was buzzing when we arrived, but we managed to snag a good spot near the bar.
Day three began with a 3-hour Irish Revolution Walking Tour, which I booked through Get Your Guide. We met our guide at St. Stephen’s Park —and made a quick stop at the iconic Oscar Wilde before setting off on our tour.
Then it was off to Kilmainham Gaol, established in 1796 and of immense significance in Irish history. It housed numerous notable political prisoners, including leaders of uprisings against British rule. It was the location where the key figures behind the 1916 Easter Uprising were incarcerated and executed.
Today, Kilmainham Gaol operates as a museum, offering visitors immersive tours of its historic premises. This provides a stark reminder of the sacrifices made for Irish independence.
Next stop: the stunning St. Patrick’s Cathedral, established in 1191. It’s Ireland’s largest church and also the National Cathedral. According to legend, over 1500 years ago, St. Patrick baptized new converts here, adding to its rich history and significance.
This three-hour walking tour also included several other stops with historical significance. Exploring a city with a guide is always worthwhile, offering insights into lesser-known facts and interesting aspects of the area.
After the tour and by now craving a pint of Guinness, we headed over to John Kavanagh’s “The Gravediggers” Pub—located just beyond the Glasnevin Cemetery.
Stepping into The Gravediggers feels like stepping back in time. The pub keeps its old Irish charm with a standing-room-only layout, no seats, and no distractions like loud music or TV screens. Yet, it buzzed with a lively crowd, all enjoying their pints and conversation. The vibe was undeniably cool, making it a spot I’ll definitely revisit on future trips.
Although I typically enjoy pub fare in Ireland, being our last night, we decided to treat ourselves to dinner at The Winding Staircase. It was located in a charming historic building with views of the River Liffey.
The welcoming atmosphere was nice, but the locally sourced cuisine was the real highlight. If you’re after something different from the usual fish and chips, this place is worth a try.
Then we headed to O’Donoghue’s, famous for its traditional Irish music. True to its reputation, the place was bustling with patrons. The evening’s band was fantastic, playing popular Irish tunes that had everyone joining in the singing. It was the perfect way to wrap up our three days in Dublin.
"When I die Dublin will be written in my heart"
The following day, we set off for the west coast to embark on a 12-day, 11-night trek around the Ring of Dingle.
Other suggestions on things to do (besides the above):
1. Explore Dublin Castle and its beautifully landscaped gardens.
2. Experience the bustling atmosphere of Grafton Street, Dublin’s premier shopping destination.
3. Immerse yourself in literary history with a visit to the Dublin Writers Museum or the James Joyce Centre.
4. Attend a performance at one of Dublin’s renowned theaters, such as the Abbey Theatre or the Gaiety Theatre.
5. Embark on a literary tour of Ulysses, delving into James Joyce’s masterpiece. Trace the footsteps of its iconic characters and explore the vibrant city of Dublin through a literary lens.
My time exploring Dublin was the perfect start to the next part of my adventure— hiking The Dingle Way. Discover the details of that hike in my blog: 9 Days on The Dingle Way: Hiking Around Ireland’s Stunning Peninsula
After hiking The Dingle Way, I wrapped up my trip to the charming town of Dingle, which you can read in my blog: Exploring Dingle: 3 Days of Adventure, Culture, and Charm.
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