Nepal had been on my bucket list for years. The mountains, the temples, the culture—I wanted to experience all of it. While planning a month in India, I decided to squeeze in a side trip and put together a short Kathmandu itinerary. I didn’t know anyone who had been, so I had to figure things out on my own. That meant lots of research and even more second-guessing—but it was worth it.
I didn’t know anyone who’d been to Nepal, which meant I had to figure things out on my own. I spent hours researching what to expect, trying to piece together an itinerary that made sense. That’s when I came across a company called Getaway Nepal Adventure.
Raj, the owner, responded to my first email right away. We ended up exchanging several messages—he asked thoughtful questions about what I liked to do and what kind of pace I wanted to keep. I gave him my budget, and he worked within it to design a trip that hit all the right notes. Raj took care of everything: airport pickup, hotels, drivers, hikes, local guides, you name it. He made it easy, and I never felt like I was being upsold or rushed.
My original flight from Delhi to Kathmandu was with IndiGo, but it was canceled at the last minute. I scrambled to find another option and managed to get a seat on Air India. Thankfully, the flight was short—about an hour and 45 minutes—and surprisingly smooth.
As the plane descended into Kathmandu, I caught a hazy glimpse of the Himalayas in the distance. Even through the smog, the jagged white peaks were incredible. It felt surreal to be so close to something I’d only ever seen in pictures.
Tribhuvan International felt a bit chaotic at first—crowded, not a ton of clear signage, and passport control was a little confusing. But it wasn’t stressful exactly, just hectic in that travel-day blur kind of way.
Here’s what helped me get through it smoothly:
Watch for signs—they’re small and easy to miss. Make sure you’re in the right line for visa processing or customs.
Ask for help if you’re unsure. The staff and even fellow travelers were helpful when I looked lost.
Keep your documents handy. You’ll need your passport, a passport-sized photo, and a pen for filling out forms.
Don’t panic if you don’t get a visa form on the plane. They’re available in the arrival hall.
Visa fees are $30 for 15 days, $50 for 30 days, and $125 for 90 days. Payment is usually in U.S. dollars or other major currencies. Airport exchange rates aren’t great, but there’s a currency exchange window if you need it.
Once I made it through the lines and grabbed my luggage, I spotted Shyam—our guide—waiting outside with a big smile and a cheerful “Namaste.” He draped a white Khata scarf around my neck, and just like that, I felt welcome. I had a good feeling about what was coming next.
I dropped my bags at Hotel Marshyangdi, which somehow always felt calm, even with Thamel buzzing just outside.
Thamel is Kathmandu’s main tourist hub, and it’s got everything: trekking shops, cafes, street vendors, temples tucked between storefronts, and the steady soundtrack of beeping horns and haggling voices. The streets were crowded with rickshaws and scooters weaving around pedestrians. I kept having to jump into doorways to avoid getting clipped, but weirdly, it all worked. There’s a kind of flow to the chaos once you settle into it.
Some shops were full of beautiful local crafts, others clearly catered to the Everest-bound crowd—rows of puffer jackets, trekking poles, and knockoff gear. I wasn’t here to summit anything, but I did pick up a few souvenirs.
At one point, I ducked into the Blueberry Café to catch my breath. I ordered some pan-fried vegetable momo (Nepali dumplings) and a cold Nepalese beer, and just sat there for a while watching the street life outside. The food was great, and the beer hit the spot after a long travel day. It was the kind of moment that makes everything click—you’re tired, slightly overwhelmed, but happy to be exactly where you are.
Pashupatinath
My first day in Kathmandu was all about exploring the city’s spiritual side. We started at Pashupatinath, the oldest Hindu temple, right by the Bagmati River. This UNESCO World Heritage Site has over 500 temples, shrines, and ashrams. I booked a guide through Get Your Guide, who shared fascinating insights about the place. The temple was bustling with people, and I even received a blessing from a Sadhu, a holy man, who placed an orange dot on my forehead as a sign of protection and good fortune
Monkeys roamed the temple grounds, jumping between structures but thankfully keeping their distance from visitors. The architecture was stunning, especially the main temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, with its gleaming golden roof.
I witnessed open-air cremations along the riverbank, where bodies were placed on wooden pyres draped with carnation garlands and colorful cloths. After the bodies were burned and the ashes cooled, they were put into the Bagmati River. Numerous cremations were happening simultaneously, showing how deeply spiritual traditions are woven into daily life here.
Next, I visited the Guhyeshwari Temple, a revered Shaktipeeth dedicated to Goddess Sati. The temple is a popular pilgrimage destination for Hindus and is believed to be where some parts of Sati’s body came to rest. Its architecture is distinct and adorned with intricate carvings and vibrant colors.
Afterward, I visited the incredible Boudhanath Stupa, one of the world’s largest stupas and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The stupa features a broad platform at the base and a massive white dome, symbolizing the earth. Rising from the dome is a golden tower with Buddha’s eyes painted on all four sides, representing wisdom and compassion, as if the stupa is watching over everything. Above the tower, a spire with 13 steps leads to a small umbrella at the top. Hundreds of prayer wheels surround the stupa, where people walk and pray, adding to the sense of devotion and peace in the area.
Watching workers use saffron water to paint a yellow lotus pattern on the dome was mesmerizing. They threw the saffron water with artistic flair, creating arcs and curves that seemed to dance across the surface. The bright saffron color contrasted beautifully with the white dome, adding to the stupa’s vibrant and spiritual atmosphere. The whole scene is incredibly moving, with fluttering prayer flags adding splashes of color to the sacred space.
For lunch, I had momo and a cold Nepalese beer (of course) on the rooftop of Nani’s Kitchen, with a great view of the Boudhanath Stupa. I watched devotees spinning prayer wheels, surrounded by chanting monks and lots of fluttering prayer flags. Vendors selling handicrafts added to the busy atmosphere.
On the drive back to our hotel, our driver had the radio playing, and of all things, it was Taylor Swift. Her music truly is everywhere! It felt surreal to be in such a culturally rich and historic place yet hear familiar pop songs coming from the car’s speakers. It was a fun reminder of how interconnected the world is, even when you’re on the other side of it.
Kopan Monastery
After lunch, we headed to the Kopan Monastery, a Tibetan Buddhist monastery situated on a nearby hilltop overlooking the Kathmandu Valley. Established in the 1970s, the monastery is renowned for its teaching programs and meditation courses. It was also the home of the late Lama Zopa Rinpoche, a famous Tibetan Buddhist teacher whom I had the pleasure of hearing speak a few years ago when he visited Raleigh—not far from my home in the States.
The monastery exuded a calm and peaceful atmosphere, with only a few monks present on the monastery grounds and no noticeable tourists. I was particularly struck by the Gompa, especially the giant golden Shakyamuni Buddha sitting in the center of the back wall, surrounded by beautiful, ornate carvings. The intricate butter sculptures with their symbolic designs were impressive, and the rich colors of the tapestries and paintings further enhanced the Gompa’s spiritual ambiance.
To achieve happiness, we must abandon selfishness and practice loving-kindness and compassion towards all living beings.
Swayambhunath
On my second day, I visited Swayambhunath, also known as the Monkey Temple. Reaching the stupa required climbing a long series of steep steps, but the effort was well worth it. The panoramic view of Kathmandu from the top was breathtaking, and the stupa, with the watchful eyes of Buddha, brought a sense of calm amidst the hustle and bustle below. As I walked around the stupa, prayer flags fluttered in the breeze—believed to carry prayers for peace and harmony.
Patan Dubar Square
Then we headed to Patan Durbar Square, a royal heritage center and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Walking through the square was an eye-opening experience. Many monuments still show the scars of the April 2015 earthquake; while some buildings are in various states of repair, others are lost forever. Despite this, Patan Durbar Square’s beauty remains—an example of Nepal’s resilience and cultural richness.
The square is home to several remarkable buildings. Built in the 17th century, the Krishna Mandir is notable for its stone carvings that illustrate scenes from the Mahabharata and Ramayana. This temple is a unique example of Shikhara-style architecture in Nepal, which is made entirely of stone.
The Golden Temple
The Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, or Golden Temple, is a beautiful three-story pagoda with golden details. I was told that the temple’s priest, or Bapacha, is always a boy under twelve who walks around the temple twice daily, ringing a bell. He is not permitted to leave the temple grounds or wash while he is the priest. Each month, a new boy takes his place.
We visited the Kumari Ghar, a historical building in Kathmandu built in 1757 by King Jaya Prakash Malla. This three-story structure, with its intricate wood carvings and detailed architecture, is a beautiful example of the skill of Newari artisans. The building’s exterior has beautifully carved windows and balconies, while the central courtyard serves as a key area for ceremonies. As the residence of the living goddess Kumari, the building holds significant cultural importance in Kathmandu.
During our visit, we saw the Kumari, the living goddess, who appeared at one of the upper balcony windows with a calm, expressionless face. The Kumari is chosen as a young girl and revered as a goddess, but she can only be cared for in the Kumari Ghar. At the first sign of blood, whether from an injury or her first menstruation, a new Kumari is selected to take her place.
After immersing myself in Kathmandu’s spiritual wonders and bustling atmosphere, my journey was about to take a turn into the serene landscapes and village life beyond the city. As I prepared to leave the urban hustle behind, I was excited to explore the trails and tranquility of Nagarkot, Bhaktapur, and Pharping, where stunning vistas and local encounters awaited. Check out the next part of my journey here. Part 2: Discovering Nepal: Scenic Paths and Cultural Gems in Nagarkot, Bhaktapur, and Pharping.
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