Journey to Nagarkot
Leaving the busy streets of Kathmandu behind, we headed to Nagarkot— a village just 20 miles away. Despite the short distance, the drive took about an hour and a half due to city traffic and winding roads. As we drove, the city slowly turned into rolling hills, offering a glimpse of the peaceful escape ahead. I enjoy the city, but deep down, I’m a country girl, and I’ll always prefer mountains and trees over the noisy city.
Nagarkot, known for its mountain views, is a popular place to watch the sunrise and sunset over the Himalayas. It also offers a peaceful break from the hectic streets of Kathmandu.
Getting to the hotel was quite the adventure. The muddy dirt road made for a tricky drive, and we even got stuck at one point. Eventually, Hotel View Point, at an elevation of 7,200 feet, came into view.
Unfortunately, rain and thick clouds hid the mountains that had been waiting to see. Still, the peaceful setting, surrounded by greenery—including thriving marijuana plants along the path—made it a relaxing place to unwind.
Determined not to let the weather stop us, we headed out for a walk along a quiet back road. We came across a small roadside café — a simple structure with board walls, an open front, and a plastic tarp ready for rainy days like this one. The menu was simple—just coffee, tea, and a few snacks. We snacked on roasted chickpeas and sipped chai tea while sitting at a makeshift table and chairs.
We headed back to the hotel, where I enjoyed a cold, crisp Nepalese beer — delicious.
As the rain picked up, we decided to take it easy for the rest of the day.
Hiking and Local Encounters
The next day, we set out on a hike around Nagarkot — taking in the beautiful landscape. Our path led us through terraced farms and traditional villages, offering a glimpse of rural life.
While walking along the trail, prayer flags fluttering on a nearby hill caught my eye. Curious, I asked Shyam if we could head up for a closer look, thinking it might be a small tea cafe or something. It turned out to be a local home. The owner welcomed us warmly, offering tea, cookies, and even a taste of fresh honey straight from his beehives.
I had tried fresh honey once before, which I liked, but never with the comb still in it. I got a little freaked out when Shyam offered me a big chunk of it on a spoon. I didn’t want to appear rude, but I wasn’t sure if I’d like it. It was delicious, and I only wished Shyam had given me a bigger bite!
Our host spoke some English, and Shyam filled in as a translator when needed. As we sipped our tea, he shared stories about his journey from Tibet and his life in Nepal. We even learned that he had once served as a bodyguard for the Dalai Lama in Dharamsala.
Even though the clouds still hid the Himalayan Mountains, meeting him and hearing his stories was an unexpected highlight of the day
On the walk back to the hotel, I noticed something strange: motorcycles with a driver and passenger and a massive log between them. They stopped at the base of a hill, where men waited to carry the logs up to the top. It turned out to be a Buddhist cremation site adorned with prayer flags and stupas. The logs would be used to build the pyre for a cremation to be held later that day.
Buddhist Cremation
We returned to the site at 3 p.m., the time we had been told the ceremony would begin, and witnessed a procession of 200-250 villagers carrying colorful flags and white cloth while playing horns and drums. Eight men carried a bier holding the deceased, who was placed in a sitting position on the bier and covered in ornate gold and red fabric. Upon reaching the pyre, they circled it three times, throwing rice before placing the bier on top.
The bier’s fabric was removed, revealing khatas in red, yellow, blue, green, and white, which were tied to the pyre’s canopy. The wrapped body was then moved from the bier to the pyre. Villagers made offerings of food, rice, and money to aid the soul’s journey. Colored sand, each representing different Buddhist values, was poured in a path from the stupa to the pyre.
A Lama led a prayer, and several men carrying lit sticks circled the pyre three times before lighting it, pouring ghee to fuel the fire. Seven men stayed until the body was ashes. What happens to the ashes depends on tradition—but they are often scattered in a sacred river to symbolize the soul’s release and next journey.
Following the ceremony, plastic cups were passed around the crowd, including us. Then several women came around with, of all things —Mountain Dew, filling everyone’s cups while several men went around offering out cigarettes—a weird but welcoming kind of gesture. Witnessing this Buddhist cremation ceremony among the villagers was certainly a unique experience.
Nagarkot to Bhaktapur
Today, we left Nagarkot. Our driver picked up our bags and drove them to Bhaktapur, where we’d be staying for the night. Following Shyam, we set off on the trail from Nagarkot to Bhaktapur, starting near the edge of the village, not far from where the cremation had taken place the day before. The path began with steep, rugged sections, cutting through dense vegetation and sharp slopes.
As we made our way, we passed farms with chickens and goats. For a good stretch, we had an unexpected hiking companion—a local dog that seemed to enjoy our company and trotted along with us.
At one point, we entered a beautiful hardwood forest. After a short climb, we reached a ridge with great views of the terraced fields below and the Kathmandu Valley to the south. The trail then descended, winding through rocky village paths, dirt-packed double tracks, and narrow single tracks. Eventually, it began to level out.
Once we arrived in Bhaktapur, we met up with our driver, who took us to our hotel. The Vajra Guest House, located right in Bhaktapur Square, was stunning.
Bhaktapur Durbar Square
Bhaktapur Durbar Square is overflowing with historical artifacts and architectural features that really give you a sense of Nepal’s rich culture. The wood carvings on many of the buildings were so intricate and detailed—the craftsmanship was incredible. It was honestly mind-blowing. On a side note, the impact of the 2015 earthquake was still very noticeable, with many buildings supported by wooden beams or steel structures to prevent collapse—much like what I saw in Kathmandu Durbar Square and Patan Durbar Square (which I wrote about in: Part 1: Discovering Nepal: Kathmandu’s Cultural Treasures)
Afterward, we had lunch at the Taleju Grand Hotel’s rooftop restaurant—enjoying Momo and a Nepalese beer—what else would I have? While eating, a Rose-Ringed Parakeet perched on a nearby tree, which was a nice touch.
Before heading back to the hotel, Shyam insisted we stop at King Curd to try their famous curd, which is similar to yogurt. It was rich and creamy, served in a traditional ceramic cup, which added an authentic touch to our Bhaktapur experience. After finishing the curd, we returned the cups to be washed and reused.
Bhaktapur to Pharping
We left Bhaktapur and headed to the village of Pharping, where the Neydo Tashi Choeling Buddhist Monastery is located. This monastery has about 200 monks.
Neydo Tashi Choeling Monastery is nestled in the hills of the Kathmandu Valley, with lovely views of the surrounding mountains. I stayed for a few days at the hotel on the monastery grounds, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere. Since it was the off-season, we were the only guests.
The simple vegetarian meals were delicious. Dinner was usually dal bhat, with different vegetables each day. It was tasty and filling, and the friendly monks made the experience even more welcoming.
Morning Puja
One morning, I woke up at 4:45 a.m. to observe the monks’ morning chanting. I sat on a mat at the back of the Gompa, just me and the monks. Their voices filled the space, rising and falling in a steady rhythm. Though I don’t usually wake up this early, it was a peaceful and calming way to start the day.
Asura Cave
Today’s hike took us to several nearby monasteries before we reached Asura Cave, a sacred site in Tibetan Buddhism where Guru Rinpoche is believed to have attained enlightenment. The entrance was framed by intricately carved wood and decorated with carnation garlands. Outside, a handprint said to belong to Guru Rinpoche was etched into the rock. The cave was small, only big enough for two or three people. During my visit, I saw two people inside, meditating.
A Forest Filled with Prayer Flags
In a nearby forested patch, hundreds of prayer flags fluttered gently in the trees. Shyam, our guide, bought a few for us from a local vendor. After writing our names on them, we tied them with the others. Watching them blow in the wind as we left made me feel kind of connected—knowing they’d stay there long after we were gone. Tibetan tradition says these prayer flags send blessings and goodwill into the world, carried by the wind to reach others.
Statue of Guru Rinpoche
We visited a 40-meter-high statue of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), built in 2012—overlooking the Dollu and Pharping Monasteries. Saying it was impressive is an understatement.
Nyingma Jyangter Chholing Monastery
Then, we visited the Nyingma Jyangter Chholing Monastery—a key center for the Nyingma tradition of Tibetan Buddhism. The colorful architecture and murals were stunning.
We were fortunate enough to be there while the monks were performing a spiritual ceremony—the chanting and traditional instruments filled the air.
The Champadevi Hike
The next day, I hiked Champadevi, which stands at 2,278 meters and is one of the highest points in the Kathmandu Valley. Conveniently, we picked up the path just a short walk from the monastery.
The path was steep almost from the start, with tons of steps, and on top of it, it was a hot day. The sun was brutal, and there were sections of the trail without any tree coverage. Even though I wore a hat and kept reapplying sunscreen, I still got sunburned.
The views from the top were decent, though not as sharp as they could have been—thanks to the smog. The heat was relentless, and I went through my two bottles of water early on. Thankfully, there were a couple of small cafes along the way where I could grab some extra water.
I was exhausted by the time I reached the Neydo Tashi Choeling Monastery.
Butter Sculpting
Later that evening, I tried my hand at butter sculpting, a traditional Tibetan art form. But instead of using actual butter, we worked with dough made from tsampa, water, and ghee. The monk teaching me made it look much easier than it was. Despite my clumsy attempts, it was fun. The skill needed to create even simple shapes gave me a new appreciation for the craft.
Return to Kathmandu
On our way back to Kathmandu, we stopped at Dakshinkali Temple, a major Hindu site dedicated to the goddess Kali. The temple, located near where the Bagmati and Sheshnarayan Rivers meet, is known for its ritual animal sacrifices on certain days. When I arrived, the temple grounds were crowded with hundreds of people—worshippers and vendors—gathered for the ceremonies.
I wasn’t expecting it, but as I walked by, I suddenly saw a goat being sacrificed as an offering to Kali. The scene was unsettling, especially since I hadn’t realized what was happening at first. These rituals also involve sacrificing chickens and pigeons. The meat is cut up and sold afterward, so nothing goes to waste.
Before we reached our hotel, we stopped at the Amideva Buddha Park, home to three giant golden Buddha statues. The statues are set on a decorated platform with intricate designs, and steps lead up to the Shakyamuni Buddha so visitors can walk around them.
As I walked around the statues, I noticed something unusual—barbed wire surrounding them. It felt out of place and not very peaceful. I learned that the wire was there to keep the monkeys away— they had become a real problem in the park.”
There was also a statue of Milarepa with one hand cupped to his ear, symbolizing his deep listening during meditation. This represents his ability to hear the subtle sounds of nature and spiritual teachings.
Back in Kathmandu, I enjoyed one last plate of momo with a Gorkha beer. Then we went back to Boudhanath Stupa to see it lit up at night. It was truly something special. I took a moment to soak it all in on my final evening.
It was a wonderful eight days in Nepal.
I explored various monasteries, temples, and shrines, taking in their beautiful architecture and detailed woodwork. I also saw two open-air cremations—one Buddhist and one Hindu. My days were filled with hikes in Pharping and Nagarkot, tea with locals, and plenty of smiles and ‘namastes.’ Traveling lets me experience different cultures and traditions, and sometimes, even take part in them. Unfortunately, the smog and lack of rain meant the Himalayan mountains I hoped to see were hidden from view.
In the morning, I fly back to Delhi before heading on to Dharamsala. If you missed the first part of my journey exploring the vibrant streets and cultural treasures of Kathmandu, you can read it here: Part 1: Discovering Nepal: Kathmandu’s Cultural Treasures
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