Nepal had been on my bucket list for ages. With its majestic, snow-capped mountains and rich history, the allure was hard to resist. While planning a month-long stay in India, I decided to squeeze in a side trip to Nepal. My plan was simple: immerse myself in Kathmandu’s cultural wonders, explore the countryside, and get in a little hiking.
Planning the trip came with its own set of challenges. Since I didn’t know anyone who had been to Nepal, I had to figure things out on my own. I spent hours researching and reading to get a clearer idea of what to expect. During this process, I came across Getaway Nepal Adventure, a company that caught my eye, so I decided to contact them.
Raj, the owner, quickly responded to my email. We exchanged several messages, during which Raj asked detailed questions about my interests and travel preferences. I shared my budget with him, and he worked within it to create an itinerary that included everything I wanted to experience. His attention to detail and flexibility made planning easy and stress-free. Raj took care of everything, from airport pick-up to arranging hotels, drivers, and guides for hiking and local tours.
My flight from Delhi to Kathmandu was initially booked with IndiGo, but it was canceled at the last minute. I quickly switched to Air India, and the 1-hour and 45-minute journey was smooth and straightforward.
Arrival and Airport Tips
As I landed, I caught a glimpse of the Kathmandu Valley, with the Himalayan peaks rising in the distance. Although the view was somewhat hazy due to smog, the mountains still offered a thrilling welcome. Tribhuvan International Airport was a lively mix of chaos and excitement. While the airport’s bustling activity and long lines felt overwhelming at first, navigating it turned out to be easier than I had anticipated. Here are a few tips based on my experience:
Navigating the airport in Nepal requires preparation and awareness. Look for signs, as they can be small and easy to miss, and check the counters to ensure you’re in the right line for visa processing or customs to avoid delays. Don’t hesitate to ask airport staff or fellow travelers for help if needed.
Expect long and somewhat chaotic queues, and stand your ground politely but firmly. Fill out the customs declaration and visa forms provided on your flight. If you don’t receive the visa form on your flight, do not worry —the forms are available in the arrival hall. Keep your passport, passport-sized photos, and a pen handy for paperwork.
Nepal offers visas on arrival for many nationalities, but verify visa requirements before traveling. Complete the visa application form and pay the fee in U.S. dollars or other major currencies. Be aware that exchange rates at the airport can be poor. Visa fees are $30 for 15 days, $50 for 30 days, and $125 for 90 days. If your currency isn’t accepted, you can use the nearby exchange window.
By keeping these tips in mind, you can navigate the airport with confidence and start your adventure in Nepal on the right foot.
After grabbing my luggage, I found Shyam, our guide, waiting with a big smile and a welcoming “Namaste.” He placed a Khata around my neck, and I immediately felt welcomed and that this was going to be a fantastic adventure.
Thamel: The Heart of the City
Kathmandu felt like stepping into a whirlwind of sights and sounds. The city’s maze-like streets blend the old with the new, with ancient temples standing next to modern cafes. I stayed in Thamel, a bustling neighborhood known for its narrow alleys filled with shops, vendors, and cultural sites.
Thamel’s streets were crowded, with scooters and rickshaws weaving through the throngs of pedestrians. The air buzzed with the chatter of vendors haggling with customers and the noise of street life. While some shops sold beautiful local crafts and souvenirs, many catered to trekkers on their way to the mountains.
While wandering, I stumbled upon the Blueberry Cafe and decided to take a break. I enjoyed a couple of bottles of Nepalese beer and some pan-fried vegetable Momo. The dumplings were delicious, and the beer was a perfect way to cool off and relax before heading back into the busy streets.
Navigating the streets of Thamel was an adventure—scooters and rickshaws competing for space with hundreds of pedestrians. More than once, I had to jump into a store entrance to avoid getting hit by a passing scooter. Despite the chaos, Thamel had a charm that was hard to resist, from the colorful prayer flags above to the lively atmosphere.
Pashupatinath
My first day in Kathmandu was all about exploring the city’s spiritual side. We started at Pashupatinath, the oldest Hindu temple, right by the Bagmati River. This UNESCO World Heritage Site has over 500 temples, shrines, and ashrams. I booked a guide through Get Your Guide, who shared fascinating insights about the place. The temple was bustling with people, and I even received a blessing from a Sadhu, a holy man, who placed an orange dot on my forehead as a sign of protection and good fortune
Monkeys roamed the temple grounds, jumping between structures but thankfully keeping their distance from visitors. The architecture was stunning, especially the main temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, with its gleaming golden roof.
I witnessed open-air cremations along the riverbank, where bodies were placed on wooden pyres draped with carnation garlands and colorful cloths. After the bodies were burned and the ashes cooled, they were put into the Bagmati River. Numerous cremations were happening simultaneously, showing how deeply spiritual traditions are woven into daily life here.
Next, I visited the Guhyeshwari Temple, a revered Shaktipeeth dedicated to Goddess Sati. The temple is a popular pilgrimage destination for Hindus and is believed to be where some parts of Sati’s body came to rest. Its architecture is distinct and adorned with intricate carvings and vibrant colors.
Afterward, I visited the incredible Boudhanath Stupa, one of the world’s largest stupas and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The stupa features a broad platform at the base and a massive white dome, symbolizing the earth. Rising from the dome is a golden tower with Buddha’s eyes painted on all four sides, representing wisdom and compassion, as if the stupa is watching over everything. Above the tower, a spire with 13 steps leads to a small umbrella at the top. Hundreds of prayer wheels surround the stupa, where people walk and pray, adding to the sense of devotion and peace in the area.
Watching workers use saffron water to paint a yellow lotus pattern on the dome was mesmerizing. They threw the saffron water with artistic flair, creating arcs and curves that seemed to dance across the surface. The bright saffron color contrasted beautifully with the white dome, adding to the stupa’s vibrant and spiritual atmosphere. The whole scene is incredibly moving, with fluttering prayer flags adding splashes of color to the sacred space.
For lunch, I had momo and a cold Nepalese beer (of course) on the rooftop of Nani’s Kitchen, with a great view of the Boudhanath Stupa. I watched devotees spinning prayer wheels, surrounded by chanting monks and lots of fluttering prayer flags. Vendors selling handicrafts added to the busy atmosphere.
On the drive back to our hotel, our driver had the radio playing, and of all things, it was Taylor Swift. Her music truly is everywhere! It felt surreal to be in such a culturally rich and historic place yet hear familiar pop songs coming from the car’s speakers. It was a fun reminder of how interconnected the world is, even when you’re on the other side of it.
Kopan Monastery
After lunch, we headed to the Kopan Monastery, a Tibetan Buddhist monastery situated on a nearby hilltop overlooking the Kathmandu Valley. Established in the 1970s, the monastery is renowned for its teaching programs and meditation courses. It was also the home of the late Lama Zopa Rinpoche, a famous Tibetan Buddhist teacher whom I had the pleasure of hearing speak a few years ago when he visited Raleigh—not far from my home in the States.
The monastery exuded a calm and peaceful atmosphere, with only a few monks present on the monastery grounds and no noticeable tourists. I was particularly struck by the Gompa, especially the giant golden Shakyamuni Buddha sitting in the center of the back wall, surrounded by beautiful, ornate carvings. The intricate butter sculptures with their symbolic designs were impressive, and the rich colors of the tapestries and paintings further enhanced the Gompa’s spiritual ambiance.
To achieve happiness, we must abandon selfishness and practice loving-kindness and compassion towards all living beings.
Swayambhunath
On my second day, I visited Swayambhunath, also known as the Monkey Temple. Reaching the stupa required climbing a long series of steep steps, but the effort was well worth it. The panoramic view of Kathmandu from the top was breathtaking, and the stupa, with the watchful eyes of Buddha, brought a sense of calm amidst the hustle and bustle below. As I walked around the stupa, prayer flags fluttered in the breeze—believed to carry prayers for peace and harmony.
Patan Dubar Square
Then we headed to Patan Durbar Square, a royal heritage center and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Walking through the square was an eye-opening experience. Many monuments still show the scars of the April 2015 earthquake; while some buildings are in various states of repair, others are lost forever. Despite this, Patan Durbar Square’s beauty remains—an example of Nepal’s resilience and cultural richness.
The square is home to several remarkable buildings. Built in the 17th century, the Krishna Mandir is notable for its stone carvings that illustrate scenes from the Mahabharata and Ramayana. This temple is a unique example of Shikhara-style architecture in Nepal, which is made entirely of stone.
The Golden Temple
The Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, or Golden Temple, is a beautiful three-story pagoda with golden details. I was told that the temple’s priest, or Bapacha, is always a boy under twelve who walks around the temple twice daily, ringing a bell. He is not permitted to leave the temple grounds or wash while he is the priest. Each month, a new boy takes his place.
We visited the Kumari Ghar, a historical building in Kathmandu built in 1757 by King Jaya Prakash Malla. This three-story structure, with its intricate wood carvings and detailed architecture, is a beautiful example of the skill of Newari artisans. The building’s exterior has beautifully carved windows and balconies, while the central courtyard serves as a key area for ceremonies. As the residence of the living goddess Kumari, the building holds significant cultural importance in Kathmandu.
During our visit, we saw the Kumari, the living goddess, who appeared at one of the upper balcony windows with a calm, expressionless face. The Kumari is chosen as a young girl and revered as a goddess, but she can only be cared for in the Kumari Ghar. At the first sign of blood, whether from an injury or her first menstruation, a new Kumari is selected to take her place.
After immersing myself in Kathmandu’s spiritual wonders and bustling atmosphere, my journey was about to take a turn into the serene landscapes and village life beyond the city. As I prepared to leave the urban hustle behind, I was excited to explore the trails and tranquility of Nagarkot, Bhaktapur, and Pharping, where stunning vistas and local encounters awaited. Check out the next part of my journey here. Part 2: Discovering Nepal: Scenic Paths and Cultural Gems in Nagarkot, Bhaktapur, and Pharping.
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