Tirana wasn’t new to me—but it still managed to surprise me. After time in Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, and a quick stop in Kosovo, I ended the journey with three days in Albania’s capital. It was a mix of revisiting favorite spots from my 2019 trip and discovering a few I’d missed the first time around. Here’s how I spent those days exploring Tirana on foot—plus a day trip to nearby Berat that turned out to be one of the highlights.
We’d just wrapped up ten days of travel through the Balkans (you can read more about that in my post, 10 Days in the Balkans) and were heading into the final stretch. The night before, we stayed in mountain village of Tropojë—a quiet, peaceful place to rest before the long drive to Tirana.
To break up the journey, we stopped for a boat ride on Komani Lake. It was as gorgeous as everyone said—steep green hills rising straight out of the deep blue water. Slowing down to take in some of Albania’s rugged beauty was the perfect way to recharge before heading into the city.
The drive to Tirana took about four hours, with a big shift in scenery along the way—from winding northern mountain roads to the busy energy of the capital. By the time we pulled in, I was more than ready to stretch my legs.
As we got closer to the city center, familiar sights from my 2019 visit started to pop up. Back then, I was here with my daughter Morgan, and we spent most of our time exploring southern Albania, starting and ending in Tirana (see my blog Tirana – 2 Days in Albania’s Colorful Capital). Coming back, I felt that familiar ease of knowing where I was—but with enough new details to keep things interesting. Walking those same streets again reminded me why I love this place—it blends modern design with bits of its past in a way that just works.
After checking into the hotel, I wandered around a bit before meeting up with the group for a walking tour. Our guide, Ivan, gave us a great introduction to Tirana, pointing out landmarks like Skanderbeg Square, the National History Museum, and the Et’hem Bej Mosque. It was a fun way to get reacquainted with the city and notice what’s changed since my last visit.
Like a lot of Eastern European cities, Tirana still has plenty of gray concrete blocks left over from the communist era—but here, many of them are splashed with bold colors and murals. The shift started under former mayor Edi Rama, who pushed to brighten up the city and give it new life. And honestly, it worked. You see his influence everywhere, from massive wall art to little painted electric boxes scattered along the sidewalks.
What I love about Tirana is how its architecture is all over the place—in a good way. You’ll see Ottoman-style buildings, Italian influences from the early 20th century, and modern high-rises with bold, unusual designs. Some of the newer buildings really stand out. One has a honeycomb pattern; another looks like it’s been folded in on itself, with sections pushed in and sticking out at odd angles. Everywhere you turn, there’s something unexpected—and that mix of old and new is a big part of what makes the city so interesting.
After the quick city tour, it was time for dinner. Ivan promised we’d get an authentic taste of Albania, and I was thrilled when he said we were heading to Oda Restaurant.
I’d been there before and knew we were in for a good meal. Back then, Morgan and I shared a vegetarian sampler—crispy rice balls, stuffed peppers with cheese, baked spinach pie, and a fresh tomato and cucumber salad.
This time, I went for the stuffed eggplant—loaded with veggies (and plenty of garlic) and grilled just right. Once again, Oda didn’t disappoint.
On my way back to Skanderbeg Square, I grabbed a gelato—pistachio, recommended by the guy working behind the counter—and found a spot to sit just outside the opera house. It was the perfect place to people-watch while the music from the nearby street musicians floated through the air.
The temperature was perfect, and the Ferris wheel lights nearby gave the evening a little extra charm. It felt like a great way to end the day.
By the time I headed back to my hotel, the square was quiet, but Tirana’s lively streets still felt welcoming, even after dark.
This morning, I switched hotels. When I booked my Balkan trip with Intrepid, there weren’t any rooms available for the extra days I decided to stay in Tirana. So, I reserved a room at Hotel Theatro instead. It’s less than a mile from Vila e Arte Hotel, which worked out perfectly since it’s still super convenient for walking almost anywhere I want to go.
Once settled in my hotel, I headed to Skanderbeg Square, the heart of Tirana. The large square is made of tiles that look like polished marble, but they’re actually a mix of limestone, granite, and other stones brought in from different parts of Albania. This is a cool way to showcase the variety of materials found across the country.
On the front of the National History Museum is a massive mosaic called The Albanians. Created in 1981, it shows soldiers, workers, and intellectuals from Albania’s history holding the Albanian flag. At the center is a modern Albanian woman, representing the fight for independence and freedom.
Although the museum is currently under construction, the mosaic is still visible and remains a central feature of the square. Nearby, the National Theatre of Opera and Ballet, the “I Love Tirana” sign [insert brief description and its significance], and the statue of Skanderbeg—Albania’s 15th-century national hero—draw plenty of attention. His statue stands proudly on horseback, a lasting symbol of resistance and national pride.
Next, I walked over to the Et’hem Bey Mosque. Though I didn’t go inside, I admired the frescoes outside, which depict trees and waterfalls. Built between 1789 and 1821, the mosque is one of the oldest and most significant landmarks in the city.
From there, I decided to climb the Sahat Kulla, Tirana’s iconic clock tower from the late 19th century. For 500 lek (about $5), I made my way up its 90-stone spiral steps. I’ve since learned it should have only cost me 200 lek—so I may have overpaid, but the views of Skanderbeg Square were still nice.
Leaving the square, I headed to Reja Park and stopped by the Postbllok Memorial, which had reminders of Albania’s communist past. I hadn’t visited the park on my last trip, so I was glad to see it this time. The memorial includes a section of the Berlin Wall, a concrete bunker, and pillars from the Spaç labor camp—not only a reminder of isolation and struggle but, maybe more importantly, of the resilience and progress the country has made.
While walking along Shetitorja Murat Toptani—a popular pedestrian street with little cafes—, I noticed a musical scale embedded in the pavement, ending in a G clef. Such a quirky little detail and just another example of the city’s charm. Moments like this remind me why I named my blog Travels Afoot—because it’s all about what you notice when you slow down and explore on foot. You never know what you’ll stumble across or which narrow alley will pull you in to see what’s next. These little surprises make every walk feel special.
The last time I was in Tirana, I felt like I didn’t give Bunk’Art 2 the attention it deserved. So, this time, I made sure to take the self-guided tour. Admission was 500 lek, and I’d say it was well worth it. As you walk in, the ceiling and walls are lined with photographs of people who lost their lives during the Enver Hoxha regime—a somber start that pulls you in.
The underground bunker, now a museum, was initially built to protect Albania’s political and military leaders from nuclear attacks. My only complaint was how dim it was inside, which made some of the displays a little hard to read. But the dimness adds to the atmosphere and makes the experience feel even more solemn. Walking through the long, concrete tunnels gave me just a small sense of the fear and isolation people must have felt back then. If you’re planning to visit, give yourself at least an hour—you’ll want time to explore and take it all in.
From Bunk’Art 2, I headed to the Pyramid of Tirana, which looks completely different from when I last saw it in 2019. Back then, it felt abandoned—graffiti-covered, empty, and crumbling. Now, it’s been transformed into a modern space with tech companies, co-working areas, and youth programs. Unlike last time, it was incredibly busy, with people everywhere.
Several sets of stairs lead to the top of the pyramid, making it another great spot for city views. In the square around it, I noticed these massive, colorful statues by artist Richard Orlinski, including an orange panda and a bright yellow gorilla. They add a fun, artistic vibe to the space and create a striking contrast to the Pyramid’s past.
For lunch, I went back to Oda. I’m a creature of habit—when I find a place I love, I can’t resist going back. Oda is one of those places. The stuffed eggplant was so good last night that I was craving it again for lunch. Whether you’re a vegetarian like me or not, it’s a fantastic choice—perfectly spiced and bursting with flavor. I paired it with a local beer, which was perfect.
Honestly, I feel you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu. Every time I come here, the place is packed, which says a lot.
Oh, and just around the corner from Oda is the New Bazaar—a spot where locals shop for groceries and vendors sell fresh produce, honey, nuts, spices, and quirky vintage finds. Even if you’re not buying anything, it’s a fun place to wander and soak up the atmosphere.
The New Bazaar is open 24 hours —so you can experience its unique vibe anytime. If you’re lucky, you might stumble upon a festival or cultural event.
Later, I wandered through Blloku, about a 15-minute walk from Skanderbeg Square. As I mentioned earlier, there are still areas in Tirana filled with dull, gray concrete buildings, and Blloku used to be one of them. Back in the communist era, this neighborhood was strictly for officials, and the plain, gray buildings reflected that time’s austerity.
Like I mentioned, back when Edi Rama was mayor, he pushed to brighten up the city—painting over the dull gray buildings with bold colors and murals. It gave places like Blloku a totally different vibe. It’s still a lively area, but these days a lot of the paint is peeling and the murals look a bit faded. Feels like the city hasn’t really kept it up since Rama moved on.
To end the day, I visited the Sky Bar on the 18th floor of the Sky Hotel. The bar rotates slowly, offering panoramic views of Tirana through floor-to-ceiling windows. I ordered an Aperol Spritz, found a seat by the window, and watched the city lights sparkle below. As the bar turned, I couldn’t help but think how Tirana has grown on me each time I visit. It’s a city that surprises you—mixing the old and the new, the vibrant and the reflective—leaving me excited for whatever tomorrow might bring.
I booked a full-day tour to Berat through Get Your Guide, and lucked out—it ended up being just me and the guide. The two-hour drive flew by as he shared stories about this UNESCO-listed city. Berat is split into three main parts: Kala (the castle area), Mangalem (the old Muslim quarter), and Gorica (the Christian side), separated by the Osum River.
We started at the castle. It’s massive—far more than I remembered from my short visit back in 2019. Inside the fortress walls are narrow cobblestone streets, houses, churches, and the Onufri Museum, where the frescoes and religious artwork were genuinely impressive.
After exploring Kala, we made our way down to Mangalem and Gorica. I had lunch on a shaded patio in Gorica, crossed the Ottoman-era bridge back to Mangalem, and visited the King Mosque, Bachelors’ Mosque, and Halveti Teqe—each with its own story and design. The Teqe’s colorful ceiling and peaceful energy stood out the most.
And as if the day hadn’t already been special, I spotted four rainbows on the drive back to Tirana.
(For a full breakdown of my day in Berat—including which churches I visited and what I ate—check out the full post [link to separate blog].)
Three days in Tirana gave me the chance to reconnect with a city I already liked and leave feeling like I barely scratched the surface. From bold architecture and sobering history to great food and even a rainbow or four, this part of the trip had a bit of everything. I’m already thinking about what I’ll explore next time. Until then—Albania, faleminderit.
And I wasn’t done yet—next up, eight solo days in North Macedonia.
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