A scenic day trip from Tirana with history, hilltop views, and one of Albania’s most charming old towns.
After a couple of busy but fun days in Tirana, I booked a full-day tour to Berat through Get Your Guide. I’ve used them plenty of times while traveling and always had a good experience.
Sure, I could’ve looked things up or followed a guidebook, but having a local guide made a big difference. He pointed out details I would’ve missed, shared stories I hadn’t heard, and even doubled as a photographer—no awkward selfies needed.
Berat is known as the “City of a Thousand Windows” thanks to its hillside of white Ottoman-era homes, their rows of large windows stacked one above the other. The view from across the Osumi River is especially striking. But the nickname only hints at what makes this city special. In 2008, Berat’s historic center—including Kala (the castle district), Mangalem, and Gorica—was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list for its unique blend of Ottoman, Byzantine, and local Albanian architecture, as well as its long tradition of religious coexistence.
An uphill walk, quiet churches, and layers of history inside the castle walls.
Normally, you can drive all the way up to Berat Castle, but it was busy the day I went, so we parked farther down and walked the last 15–20 minutes. I didn’t mind. The uphill stretch gave me a chance to notice the small things—worn stone paths, flower boxes, laundry lines, and a cat sleeping under a chair.
Much of the hillside is still surrounded by the castle’s thick outer walls, and the stone walkway up runs alongside them. At the top, we entered through a wide stone archway—plain, solid, and built for defense. Once through it, the space opened up into something that felt surprisingly lived-in.
Inside the walls, Berat Castle is still a living village. Some families live here full-time, and there are small hotels and B&Bs—including Hotel Klea, where my daughter Morgan and I stayed during a rushed overnight visit in 2019. This time, I had more time to take it all in. Cobblestone streets twist through homes, cafés, and shops tucked into thick stone buildings that have clearly been around for centuries.
We started with the Church of the Dormition of St. Mary, now home to the Onufri Iconographic Museum. The thick stone walls made it feel cool and quiet, and the icons inside were impressive—many painted in the 1500s by Onufri, an Albanian master. The reds and golds were vivid, and the faces more lifelike than what you usually see from that time.
My guide pointed out what made Onufri’s work distinctive—especially his vivid red tones and the softer, more expressive features in his figures. One detail that really stood out was the carved wooden iconostasis (the screen that separates the nave from the sanctuary). Created in 1807, it blends Baroque flourishes with traditional Byzantine design. I kept going back to look at it again. Upstairs, we saw more icons—some by Onufri’s followers, others in the same tradition.
Next up was St. Mary of Blachernae, one of the oldest churches in Berat. Some of the frescoes date back to the 13th century and still hold their color. Others are cracked and faded, showing their age. The altar was simple, and above it, a painted scene showed saints with golden halos and finely detailed robes.
Just behind the church was a stone carving of Constantine the Great, his eyes fixed on the horizon.
Our last church stop was Holy Trinity Church, set right on the edge of the hill. The view from there was incredible—river winding between Mangalem and Gorica, red rooftops climbing the slopes, and mountains in the distance. Inside, it was quiet and dim, built in a cross-in-square layout with a domed ceiling. The Byzantine style was clear.
We also passed the remains of the Red Mosque, one of the oldest mosques in Berat. It’s inside the castle grounds, not far from the churches. Most of it is gone, but the brick minaret still stands. There’s a small sign explaining its history, though it’s easy to miss. Like so much in Berat, it’s the kind of thing you might overlook unless you’re really paying attention. And like the churches nearby, it adds to that layered feeling—Christian, Muslim, and even older influences, all within the same walls.
Near the acropolis ruins, we stopped at a massive underground cistern carved straight into the rock. It once stored water for the entire fortress—one of those quiet details that shows how much thought went into making the place livable.
Ottoman bridges, cobbled streets, and a walk between two distinct neighborhoods.
After the morning at the castle, we headed down to explore Mangalem and Gorica, the two historic neighborhoods on either side of the Osumi River. Traditionally, Mangalem was home to the Muslim community, while Gorica was the Christian quarter. Those lines have blurred over time, but the architecture still hints at the past—Mangalem with its white Ottoman-era homes climbing the hillside, and Gorica with stone houses and narrow cobbled streets winding past old churches.
We passed through Independence Square, a small open space where a few streets come together in Mangalem.
There are a few bridges that connect the two sides of Berat, but we crossed the Gorica Bridge—an old Ottoman-style stone bridge with seven arches. Originally built in the 18th century and later reconstructed in stone, it was once used by carts and pedestrians. Today, it’s pedestrian-only. The low, rounded arches are classic Ottoman design. The only other time I’d seen bridges like it was while hiking in southern Albania with my daughter, in the Zagoria Mountains. They have a look that’s hard to forget.
From the bridge, you get one of the best views of Mangalem’s hillside houses—a postcard-perfect shot of Berat’s City of a Thousand Windows.
Traditional food in Gorica, followed by two colorful religious sites across the river.
For lunch—well, more like a late lunch—we stopped at Tradita e Beratit, a restaurant on the Gorica side known for traditional Albanian food. It’s fairly well-known but didn’t feel overly touristy. I grabbed a table on the outdoor patio and ordered a simple, satisfying meal: tomato salad, olives, slices of cheese, and bukë sode (Albanian soda bread).
It was light, fresh, and exactly what I needed before heading back out.
After lunch, we crossed back into Mangalem for a few more stops.
First was the King Mosque, also called the Sultan’s Mosque, built in the 15th century. From the outside, it looks modest—but inside, it’s full of color. The flat wooden ceiling stood out immediately, painted with geometric and floral patterns in rich reds, blues, and golds. Around it, a band of Arabic calligraphy features the 99 names of God, and in the center are rosettes with verses from the Qur’an. The craftsmanship is beautiful. A wooden balcony with carved latticework overlooks the main prayer hall—it’s the section where women sit.
Right across the courtyard is the Halveti Teqe, a Sufi lodge once used by the mystical Islamic Halveti order. Like the mosque, the exterior is plain, but the interior bursts with color—reds, greens, and golds across the ceiling and walls, carved wooden details, and small alcoves lining the sides. It felt quiet and well-used, and the ceiling was especially striking.
In both places, the ceilings stood out as some of the most vivid examples of Berat’s cultural and spiritual heritage—where artistic expression and religious devotion meet.
Rainbows over the hills, a quiet dinner in Tirana, and one last perfect moment.
I’m so glad I booked this full-day tour. My first visit felt rushed, so it was great to finally have the time to really take it in.
On the drive back to Tirana, it started to rain lightly. Then, four rainbows arched across the hills in different directions. It felt like the perfect end to the day.
Back in the city, I grabbed a quick coffee at a little café across from my hotel, then headed to dinner at Restaurant Gloria, tucked inside Boutique Hotel Gloria. The food and service were fantastic—a fresh arugula salad, pasta in a creamy rosé sauce, and a great glass of wine. A quiet, satisfying way to wrap up a full day of exploring.
Travel Tip: Berat is about 120 km from Tirana and makes a great day trip. I booked a private guide through Get Your Guide, but you can also rent a car or catch the bus. Most people spend just a day, but if you can swing a night, the castle area has a few great little guesthouses.
Exploring more of the Balkans? These posts dive into other stops on my trip—including city strolls, mountain hikes, and everything in between.
Skopje in 3 Days: Confused, Impressed, and Kindo into it
3 Days in Tirana: Albania’s Colorful Capital Revisited
3 Days in Split, Croatia: History, Architecture, and Seaside Charm
Hiking in the Balkans: 10 Days, 4 Countries
Exploring Ohrid: A 5-Day Stay in North Macedonia’s Lakeside Gem. (Coming soon)
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