Skopje in 3 Days: Confused, Impressed, and Kinda Into It

North Macedonia wasn’t originally part of my plan, but once I saw how close it was to my final stop in Tirana, it made sense to add it to the route. I spent a few days in Ohrid before moving on to Skopje.

I used DayTrip for the ride from Ohrid to Skopje. Like the other times I’ve used them, it made the whole thing super easy.

A neoclassical-style fountain in Skopje featuring bronze sculptures of a seated man, woman, and child holding hands, flanked by lions. Water flows from an ornate upper bowl, with shops, a church, and fortress walls visible in the background.
One of several monumental fountains in Skopje’s central square.

One thing I’ve enjoyed about using DayTrip is the chance to talk with the drivers along the way. With four hours in the car, there was plenty of time for conversation, and my driver shared some of his thoughts about the history of the region. It was interesting to hear his perspective, and it also made me realize that there are still some pretty strong feelings about the past.

The four-hour drive to Skopje took us through all kinds of scenery—fields of tobacco, apple orchards (we stopped at a roadside stand to pick up a few), and, closer to Skopje, rows of grapevines stretching along the hillsides. I hadn’t realized North Macedonia was a wine-producing country, but we passed rows of grapevines as we got closer to Skopje.

The road was paved the whole way but winding, especially as we passed through the mountains.

A roadside fruit stand near Skopje, North Macedonia, displaying crates of red and green apples stacked neatly under a simple shelter with a blue tarp roof. A sign in Macedonian offers 7 kilograms of apples for 150 denars. A couple of squashes sit at the base of the stand beside the road.
Roadside apple stand just outside Skopje.

Table of Contents

The Drive from Ohrid, with a Stop in Bitola

We made a stop in Bitola, about two hours from Ohrid, where I had an hour and a half to stretch my legs, have a coffee, and explore.

Most of my time was spent along Širok Sokak, Bitola’s main pedestrian street, lined with cafés and some really beautiful old buildings. I particularly liked the architecture, with its colorful facades, balconies and decorative details. 

A colorful street scene in Bitola, North Macedonia, showing a row of restored neoclassical buildings with shops and cafes at street level. Pedestrians walk past a pink hotel labeled “Millenium” and a mix of businesses, including a wedding studio and sports shop, under a bright blue sky.
Neoclassical charm on the pedestrian streets of Bitola, North Macedonia.

I tried to visit the Catholic Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, tucked between two buildings on the main street, but unfortunately, it was locked.

I also came across a statue of Philip II of Macedon, Alexander the Great’s father, in Magnolia Square.

Neo-Gothic Co-Cathedral of the Sacred Heart in Bitola, North Macedonia, featuring pointed arches, a central tower with a cross, and flanked by neoclassical facades along the bustling Širok Sokak pedestrian street.
The Co-Cathedral of the Sacred Heart — a Neo-Gothic landmark on Bitola’s Širok Sokak.
A statue of a rider on a rearing horse stands in the center of a square in Bitola, North Macedonia. The bronze equestrian monument is set on a dark stone pedestal, surrounded by benches and a mix of neoclassical and modest storefront buildings. Mountains rise in the distance under a partly cloudy sky.
Equestrian statue of Philip II of Macedon in Bitola’s Magnolia Square.

Banners for the 45th Manaki Brothers Film Festival were up while I was there. If I’d had more time—and if the films had English subtitles—I would’ve loved to catch one. 

First Impressions of Skopje

After checking into Hotel London B&B, just steps from Macedonia Square in the center of Skopje, I headed straight to Trend London Lounge, the hotel’s downstairs restaurant.

The location couldn’t have been more convenient—surrounded by pedestrian-only streets and within easy walking distance of most major sights.

Statue of a warrior in armor overlooking the Vardar River in Skopje, North Macedonia, with bridges and neoclassical buildings in the background.
A warrior statue stands watch over the Vardar River in Skopje.

I sat at a table outside and ordered the Date Salad—mixed greens, sweet dates, raw almonds, and shaved parmesan, all tossed in olive oil and balsamic. I loved it.

A fresh salad served in a decorative blue-and-white bowl, featuring leafy greens topped with thin shavings of cheese, halved dates, whole almonds, and a drizzle of dressing. The ingredients are vibrant and arranged naturally for an appealing presentation.
Completely obsessed with this simple salad—dates, almonds, shaved parmesan and greens.

They didn’t sell wine by the glass, only by the half-bottle, so I went for it. I ordered a Vranec from Tikveš Winery, one of North Macedonia’s best-known wineries. I knew absolutely nothing about Vranec at the time, but I liked it.

From my table, I could see several of Skopje’s infamous statues—yes, they really are larger than life. I’d already heard about the controversy surrounding them. The massive plazas, fountains and monuments were part of an expensive redevelopment of central Skopje, and not everyone was happy about it.

But despite the over-the-top vibe, there was something oddly charming about it all. I liked it, even if I understood why some locals might not. After all, I’m just passing through—I’m not part of the history that shaped all this.

A low-angle view of a neoclassical-style building in Skopje, North Macedonia, with ornate architectural details and a neon sign reading "Casino Flamingo Skopje." In the foreground stands a bronze statue of a man in formal attire. To the right, a modern glass building with a green logo contrasts the older structure.
Statue and casino near Macedonia Square, Skopje.

That evening, I wandered around to get a feel for the area and take a closer look at some of the statues. I’d already booked a walking tour for the next morning, so this was just about easing into the city.

A decorative fountain in Skopje, North Macedonia, featuring dramatic bronze horse sculptures emerging from water among sculpted leaves. Behind them is a central stone column adorned with classical figures and reliefs. To the left, another monument depicts two robed men, possibly historical scholars or saints. A neoclassical domed building is visible in the background.
Horse fountain near the Archaeological Museum in Skopje.
A row of bronze statues lines a bridge in Skopje, North Macedonia, with the nearest figure depicted in 19th-century attire. Behind it stands a grand neoclassical building with columns and reliefs, and more ornate facades are visible in the background under a cloudy sky.
One of many bronze figures on the Art Bridge in Skopje, surrounded by neoclassical facades.

Old and New Town – A Walking Tour

The next morning, after breakfast at the hotel, my guide met me in the lobby and we headed out to explore.

We started in Macedonia Square, dominated by the enormous Warrior on a Horse statue. Officially, it isn’t called Alexander the Great, although that’s clearly who it’s meant to represent. The careful naming is tied to the long-running disputes with Greece over Macedonian history and identity.

Nearby was a statue of Tsar Samuel, another historical figure whose legacy is claimed by more than one country. I was beginning to realize just how complicated some of the history in this part of the Balkans can be.

A large equestrian statue rises dramatically from a tall pedestal in the center of Macedonia Square in Skopje, North Macedonia. The statue depicts a warrior on a rearing horse, widely believed to represent Alexander the Great. Surrounding the base are bronze figures, including soldiers and lions. The square is flanked by neoclassical buildings, with the Marriott Hotel on the left and scaffolding covering some of the structures on the right.
Alexander the Great (unofficially), towering over Skopje’s main square.
The statue of Tsar Samuil

From Macedonia Square, we crossed the Stone Bridge over the Vardar River. Dating largely from the Ottoman period, it’s one of Skopje’s most recognizable landmarks and connects the newer part of the city with the Old Bazaar.

View of the Stone Bridge in Skopje, North Macedonia, crossing the Vardar River at sunset. In the foreground, a bronze statue of a swimmer in a red bathing cap and suit prepares to dive. Across the bridge, additional statues—including an equestrian figure—stand in Macedonia Square, with city buildings and mountains in the background.
Stone Bridge at sunset, with one of Skopje’s many swimmer statues adding a playful touch to the riverfront.

Then came the Art Bridge, lined with statues of Macedonian artists, writers and scholars, followed by yet another bridge. Skopje has quite a few bridges—and statues—for a relatively small area

View along the Art Bridge in Skopje, North Macedonia, looking toward a round neoclassical building with columns and a flag atop. The bridge is lined with statues of historical figures and ornate street lamps. Surrounding buildings are illuminated in the evening light.
Looking back across Skopje’s Art Bridge toward the Public Prosecutor’s Office at dusk.

My guide also pointed out the Skopje Holocaust Museum near the Stone Bridge. Before World War II, Macedonia was home to a significant Jewish community. In 1943, more than 7,000 Jews from the territory were deported to Treblinka, where almost all were murdered.

Next, we visited the Mother Teresa Memorial House. Mother Teresa was born in Skopje in 1910 to an Albanian family and lived here until she was 18. The museum contains photographs, letters and personal items connected with her life.

The Mother Teresa Memorial House in Skopje, North Macedonia, featuring modern architecture with butterfly motifs, stone walls, and a banner honoring Mother Teresa.
Mother Teresa Memorial House — built near the site of her birth in Skopje.
A recreated bedroom exhibit at the Mother Teresa Memorial House in Skopje, showing a simple metal bed with embroidered linens, a stained glass image of the Virgin Mary, religious icons, and family photographs. Display cases and framed documents line the walls.
Inside the Mother Teresa Memorial House in Skopje.

To understand why Skopje looks the way it does today, you have to know about the enormous earthquake that struck the city in 1963. Much of Skopje was destroyed, and the rebuilding that followed brought striking modernist and Brutalist architecture to the city. Japanese architect Kenzo Tange played an important role in the plans for its reconstruction.

Decades later came Skopje 2014, a massive redevelopment project that added many of the statues, monuments, fountains and neoclassical-looking buildings I’d been staring at since I arrived. The project was hugely controversial, both for its cost and for essentially giving parts of central Skopje a historical-looking architectural style that hadn’t actually been there before.

And suddenly Skopje made a little more sense to me.

A dramatic upward view of the neoclassical-style Archaeological Museum in Skopje, featuring a row of towering Corinthian columns in front of a curved glass facade, under a lightly clouded sky.
Looking up at the imposing colonnade of the Archaeological Museum of North Macedonia in Skopje.
A large bronze statue of a man seated in an ornate chair dominates the foreground, set against a dilapidated high-rise building in Skopje, North Macedonia. The building features exposed concrete, stripped facade panels, and a visible metal framework, contrasting sharply with the polished monument. The juxtaposition highlights the city’s blend of monumental ambition and post-socialist decay.
A grand bronze tribute set against the stripped-down remains of Skopje’s postwar modernism.
Bronze statues of two women—one pregnant, the other embracing a small child—seated at the base of a neoclassical-style fountain in Skopje. Buildings and a cloudy sky are visible in the background.
TheFountain of the Mothers of Macedonia.

We also passed Porta Macedonia, the enormous triumphal arch built as part of the Skopje 2014 project, before continuing to the old railway station, now the Museum of the City of Skopje.

A large white triumphal arch in Skopje, North Macedonia, adorned with sculptural reliefs and statues. Cars and people pass through its arched center.
Porta Macedonia — Skopje’s version of a triumphal arch.

Part of the station was destroyed in the 1963 earthquake, and the clock on its facade remains frozen at 5:17—the time the earthquake struck.

A stone building in Skopje, North Macedonia, with a damaged left facade and a large clock frozen at 5:17. The structure houses the Museum of the City of Skopje and was formerly the city’s railway station, partially destroyed during the 1963 earthquake.
The old train station, now the Museum of the City of Skopje — its clock stopped at 5:17, the moment the 1963 earthquake struck.

Afterward, we headed into Skopje’s Old Bazaar. This was one of my favorite parts of the city—narrow cobblestone streets filled with mosques, little workshops, cafés and shops selling everything from copperware to secondhand books.

A street scene in Skopje’s Old Bazaar, with people walking past shops and restaurants under fabric canopies stretched above the cobblestone lane.
Wandering through Skopje’s Old Bazaar—part market, part maze, always full of life.

 My guide took me through a stretch known for its gold and silver shops, including a few that specialize in traditional filigree work. She showed me what to look for in the craftsmanship and pointed out which ones were family-run. She also steered me to what she claimed was the best coffee spot in the area (she was right).

A small café on a cobblestone street in Skopje’s Old Bazaar, with string lights overhead, a scooter parked out front, and traditional buildings on either side.
Tucked into a cobblestone corner of Skopje’s Old Bazaar, this café had some of the best coffee I had in Skopje

Along the way, we stopped for gelato. I was just going to get a scoop of chocolate, but my guide insisted I try it with a scoop of blueberry on top—and wow, she was right. The combo was unexpectedly perfect. From then on, it became my go-to order while I was in Skopje.

Hand holding a gelato cone with chocolate and blueberry scoops in front of a display case of ice cream flavors.
My guide insisted I try the chocolate-blueberry combo—and she was right.

Later, we headed to her favorite bakery. We each picked up a simit—a chewy, sesame-covered bread ring that’s perfect for snacking. Then she insisted I try a burek sandwich.

Burek is usually a flaky pastry filled with meat or cheese, eaten warm and on its own. But this version was sliced and stuffed into a soft roll—basically bread inside of bread. Very tasty, and very filling.

A sesame-coated simit held up in front of the window of Burektore Star Grad in Skopje, with people and the bakery’s sign reflected in the glass.
Warm, sesame-sprinkled simit from Burektore Star Grad—simple, fresh, and very tasty.
A flaky, golden slice of burek served on a split piece of soft white bread, forming a makeshift sandwich. The dish rests on a napkin over a red and white checked tablecloth.
The famous Skopje burek sandwich—crispy, soft, greasy, and ridiculously good.

After stuffing ourselves, we visited the Church of the Holy Savior. The exterior is surprisingly plain, but inside is an extraordinary carved wooden iconostasis covered with incredibly detailed biblical scenes and figures.

Ornate carved wooden iconostasis inside a Macedonian Orthodox church in Skopje, filled with colorful religious icons and crowned with a gold cross and celestial ceiling paintings.
Intricate woodwork and glowing icons inside a Macedonian Orthodox church.

Our final stop was Bit Pazar, Skopje’s oldest green market, full of fresh produce, spices, and local food items.

A colorful open-air fruit market stall in Skopje filled with pears, apples, bananas, grapes, and citrus fruits. A vendor stands nearby, chatting with customers.
Fresh fruit, friendly vendors, and a splash of color at the Skopje green market.

We ended the tour at the Fortress of Skopje high above the city. From the walls we had a great view across Skopje and the Vardar River, with minarets rising above the Old Bazaar below. After spending the morning walking through the city, it was a pretty good place to see just how much we’d covered.

Two smiling women wearing sunglasses take a selfie while standing by the stone walls and railing of the Skopje Fortress under a partly cloudy sk
Quick selfie on the steps of Skopje Fortress with my guide.

Evening Wandering and a Wine Thief

Tired and hungry after a full day of touring, I had dinner once again at my hotel’s restaurant. I didn’t even look at the menu. I just ordered the same thing as the night before: the date salad and a half-bottle of wine. I poured myself a glass and was sitting there quietly, enjoying the evening, when I happened to notice a woman heading toward my table.

A close-up of a salad and glass of red wine on a café table at dusk in Skopje, North Macedonia, with the Warrior on a Horse statue and lit-up city buildings visible in the background.
Savoring a glass of red and a fresh salad with Alexander the Great towering in the background.

My purse was on the chair next to me, but I moved it beside me—just in case. There had been a few beggars around the night before (nothing too aggressive), and since I’d had my phone stolen in Barcelona a few months earlier, I was feeling a bit more cautious than usual.

Anyway, the woman walked right up to my table. I thought she might ask for money, but instead she reached for my wine bottle, unscrewed the cap, and chugged it straight from the bottle.

Then she calmly screwed the lid back on, banged the bottle down on the table, said, “That was good,” wiped her mouth, and walked off.

I sat there holding my glass, still trying to process what had just happened. I’ve had some strange travel moments, but this one definitely earned a spot on the list—a total WTF moment.

My mouth was probably still hanging open.

Once I recovered, I went inside and told the staff. They looked just as stunned and quickly replaced both the wine and the glass. I felt perfectly safe—it was just one of those bizarre, unexpected things.

Needless to say, when my replacement arrived, I guarded my salad and my new bottle of wine like my life depended on it.

Getting Out of the City: A Day Trip Beyond Skopje

I booked a private tour to get out of the city and check out a few spots near Skopje: the Millennium Cross, the Church of St. Panteleimon, and Matka Canyon.

Millennium Cross (and Why I’d Skip It)

First up was the Millennium Cross. It looks impressive from a distance, towering over Skopje from Mount Vodno, but up close, it was kind of a letdown. We took the cable car up—a foggy ride with cloudy windows—and found the area around the cross totally neglected. There was cow poop everywhere, flies swarming, and an abandoned restaurant at the base. There was an elevator inside the cross, but it wasn’t operating when I was there.

A dramatic upward view of the Millennium Cross on Mount Vodno, North Macedonia, set against a cloudy sky.
Towering over Mount Vodno, the 66-meter Millennium Cross is hard to miss—and even harder to photograph from below.

My guide told me the 66-meter height represents the 66 books of the Bible and that its sections represent the years of Christ’s life.

If I had to do it again, I’d skip the cable car and hike up instead. It would’ve been more satisfying and felt like an actual experience.

Matka Canyon (Could’ve Skipped the Cave)

Next, we headed to Matka Canyon. It’s a beautiful place—towering cliffs, a river, and lush greenery all around. We took a short boat ride to a cave, but that part felt underwhelming. Inside, colored lights lit up the rock formations in a way that made them look oddly fake.

Steep rocky cliffs rising above the emerald waters of Matka Canyon, with small boats docked along the shore.
Matka Canyon, about 30 minutes outside Skopje.
Illuminated cave interior with rock formations glowing in red, yellow, purple, and blue light.
Inside Vrelo Cave

If I could do it again, I’d skip the cave and rent a kayak instead. The canyon is quiet and scenic, and paddling through it would’ve let me actually take in the surroundings instead of just hopping on and off a boat. 

The canyon was beautiful, and I think paddling through it would have been a much better way to experience it.

Church of St. Panteleimon

After that, we visited the Church of St. Panteleimon in Gorno Nerezi—a small 12th-century church known for its frescoes. One stood out in particular: The Descent from the Cross. My guide pointed it out and explained that what made the fresco so unusual was the amount of emotion shown in the figures. You could actually see the grief on the faces—Mary, Saint John, and others leaning in to support Jesus’s body. It was quietly powerful.

Fresco of the Lamentation of Christ, with Mary holding Jesus’ body after the crucifixion, surrounded by grieving figures in rich robes. The background shows angels and a dark blue sky, with part of the image faded or missing due to age.
The Lamentation of Christ inside St. Panteleimon

Back in Skopje: One Last Look Around the Market

Once I got back to the city, I made my way over to the Old Bazaar again—not so much to sightsee, but because I couldn’t stop thinking about a filigree brooch I’d seen the day before.

It had a soft pink stone—I believe rose quartz—and just enough vintage charm to tempt me. I figured I’d see if it was still there and maybe try to bargain a little with the owner.

It was.

And I bought it.

I even managed to bargain a little, which made me ridiculously pleased with myself.

The walk back also took me past all those fountains and statues I’d somehow grown rather fond of. For all my initial confusion over Skopje, I had to admit: I was kinda into it.

A close-up view of bronze lion sculptures resting around the base of a large, ornate fountain in Skopje’s city center. Water flows from multiple levels of the structure, with classic-style buildings and a partly cloudy sky in the background.
Warrior on a Horse Fountain in Skopje’s Macedonia Square.
My filigree brooch from Skopje's Old Bazaar.

Leaving Skopje

After breakfast—a typical Macedonian spread of cheese pie, olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, and yogurt—I took one last quick walk around town before heading back to Tirana for the night.

A close-up of a traditional Balkan breakfast plate on a ceramic dish. The plate includes a slice of cheese-filled burek pastry, hard-boiled egg slices, a block of feta cheese, black olives, sliced cucumber and tomato, and a small bowl of ajvar (a red pepper spread), all arranged on a patterned ceramic plate atop a black tablecloth in natural sunlight.
My last Macedonian breakfast before leaving Skopje.

It was a long drive, and we went by way of Kosovo, stopping in Prizren for lunch. We had about 40 minutes—just enough time to enjoy a cheese burek and take a quick stroll. It looked like a cute town, with a few nice shops, a moss-covered church, and a castle up on the hill. 

Crossing from North Macedonia into Kosovo was easy—barely any wait at passport control. Though right before we got there, my driver asked if I’d sit in the front seat so the border agents wouldn’t treat him like a taxi driver. I’m still not exactly sure what that was about, but I slid up front anyway.

We reached Tirana around 5:30 PM. Another day with three countries in one—breakfast in Macedonia, lunch in Kosovo, and dinner in Albania. That actually happened to me twice on this trip.

Once I got to my hotel, I grabbed a sandwich from a nearby stand, walked around a little and called it a night.

Three countries in one day wasn’t a bad way to finish this part of the trip.

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About the Author

Hi, I’m JoAnne—writer, wanderer, and lover of places that surprise me. I’ve traveled to 60+ countries (and counting), usually with a camera in one hand and a notebook in the other. I’m drawn to mosaics, markets, and mountains, and I write to remember what moved me. When I’m not traveling, I’m working on my blog Travels Afoot, trying new creative projects, or planning my next adventure.

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